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Crack in exhaust manifold

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go aftermarket

Check out ATS They have a replacement exhaust manifold for our trucks with a predrilled tap for an exhaust sensor.

Good luck

Kevin M.
 
Are you aware of the 100K mile warranty on the engine?

If you are over the 100k mark then I would replace it myself,

its not a hard job.

Once the turbo is removed, all of your exhaust manifold bolts

are accessable.



Bye the way, do you have any idea how it cracked?
 
I just went through the same thing and DC replaced it no charge. The only cost to me was I had to change it out myself with the supplied parts. The reason I changed it was because I needed the truck and there was over a week of back-log or else they would have changed it for me no problem. Mine was cracked within 2inches of going completly around at the y. If you have to do it yourself removing the turbo is youre choice. I didn't and swaped it out in 2. 5hrs very easy. You may save alot of possible headaches and time by not removing the turbo or intercooler-line-exaust pipe.
 
Go For ATS, But watchout.

Originally posted by Mactruck

Check out ATS They have a replacement exhaust manifold for our trucks with a predrilled tap for an exhaust sensor.

Good luck

Kevin M.



Before you go and tap the ATS Manifold where it LOOKS like you should,, ask around to see where the Pyrometer should really go. (Close to the turbo)



I tapped my truck where the ATS manifold had a little place for it. .

Here...

#ad




This is NOT the place to put your Pyro !! Any temperature readings taken from that spot are useless,, the Low temperatures are too high, and high temperatures are WAYY to low.

With my pyro in this area my idle EGT was 400* (lowest ever was 375*) Highest ever was 950*. This was with DD1's and a PE COMP on 5/5. Thanks to a few quick eyes, I was told to move my pyro closer to the turbo.

After moving the pyro my lowest EGT has been ~120* (Coasting downhill in gear)

Highest EGT is 1500*



The day I changed my pyro closer to the turbo I did a test.

Before moving the pyro, I took my truck out and did a 0-110MPH test run, recording only EGT and Boost #, I was WOT in 2nd-5th gear. Idle EGT was 400* (0 PSI boost :rolleyes: )peak EGT was 925-950* (36PSI boost)

Immediatly after changing the pyro closer to the turbo, I did the exact same 0-110MPH test. Idle EGT was 300* (0 boost) and peak EGT was 1500* (36PSI boost)(@~90MPH)

These tests were the same day, about 3 hours apart.



I feel very lucky to not have melted anything so far, I did work my truck very hard and felt my EGT was safe, but after moving my pyro, I can see I have been sustaining Dangerously high EGT for a very long time (since sometime in September)



FWIW,

MerrickNJr



edit: Can't spell and have a bad case of country grammer...
 
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Been there, done that (with some help) a couple yrs ago at Scheid. Cracked it on the way. Scheid guys helped with the swap; I cracked it will towing out there from Omaha. They sold me the manifold off their demo engine at the show so I wouldn't have to wait a couple days since I needed to get back to work. Great bunch (Scheid).



Manifold was a little over a couple hundred, $225 or so. I'd hate to think what Dodge would gouge you for the part -- since it's in the low $200 real price that means about $600 Dodge price then double that for labor to get the shop total of about $1200.



Whatever you do; when you swap the manifold put in new compression gaskets. Once they've been used they loose their effectiveness so you shold always replace them. Their only about $10 bucks from Cummins (so make that $60 from Dodge).
 
Same as juicedcummins,mine cracked at the center,all but a couple of inches. DC replaced mine no problem,dropped it off in the morning,picked it up that afternoon. Still wondering why,Dave
 
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