Archived Cracked 2001 53 block

[CliftonSmith]

Started losing water last week, and bottom line is that I have the dreaded 53 cracked block. I have been doing research and have been in touch with LockNStitch on the phone and internet. Sounds like I will try the LockNStitch option before I go for the replacement block, but I am curious. Has anyone tried or given any thought to this new reinforcement bracket that LockNStitch is selling? At about $500. 00, LockNStitch seems a bit proud of this item, and I wonder if it is necessary on top of stitching up this crack. Any feed back would be helpful as I need to get the truck back to fully operational as opposed to frequently checking the water. Clifton (Prankster) Smith

 

[MonkeyMagic]

Sorry to hear... hopefully the LockNStitch works out... How many miles do you have on your engine?

 

[CliftonSmith]

176000 miles, and I am fairly certain the crack occurred on a just completed trip pulling our fifth wheel through the mountains in Northern California and Oregon. Clif

 

[DavidC]

If you are going to use the truck as it was supposed to be built (ie. hauling weight) I would be very leary of any block repair. If you just use it to get groceries a block repair may hold.



Dave

 

[Joe Mc]

Has anyone tried or given any thought to this new reinforcement bracket that LockNStitch is selling? At about $500. 00, LockNStitch seems a bit proud of this item, and I wonder if it is necessary on top of stitching up this crack.

Clifton - Sorry to hear of your problems. I thank my lucky stars each time I see one of these posts that I don't have a 53.

From time to time when I'd come across posts such as yours I'd look at the Lock-N-Stitch system. But this is the first time I've seen anything about the support bracket. It looks plenty sturdy, but $500 is kind of pricey. I bet this could be duplicated for a great deal less. I find it interesting that the bottom of the bracket isn't fastend snug to the block lip where it bolts. To me this looks as if it's adding some downward pressure to the area where the crack usually occurs. Not sure why they wouldn't want it to be solid? But, that's why they are in the business they are in - I guess. I've known guys that were welders for the local Steel Mill (USS-Fairless Works, before they shut down) that could weld a crack in anything. They told me the key to repairing a cast crack, was to drill each end of the crack all the way through, grind a "V" groove the length of the crack and 1/2 the depth, then heat with a torch until the cracked area and at least 1" above below etc. to ir before you start welding. They used stick welders not migs. I had a repair to a cracked off bolt tab on a four speed that was perfect. Don't know it this old method would work or not on the Cummins 53 crack. But you might want to check some of the welding outfits in your area for their opinion on the Lock-N-Stitch method versus the old welder method. Make sure you bring the PDF stuff on the lock-n-stitch product when you visit the welders.

I'm not trying to sway anyone from buying Lock-N-Stitch's products, which have gotten good reviews here on the TDR, but just passing info to a fellow TDR'er. This "passing of info" is what this site is all about.

Good Luck!

Joe Mc

 

[keimmmo]

You can do virtually the same repair as the Lock-n Stitch with brass screws and some patience. I was taught how to do it by an old machinest about 30 years ago. I have used it many times... even on cracked heads!



Steve Keim

 

[Joe Mc]

Steve is the reason for "brass" because it expands moreso than the cast of the block. And did the brass screws have to be spaced so another would fit in between two after the first go by? Seems like it would work for sure.

 

[keimmmo]

The old machinest told me that brass is best because it expands more than cast and helps keep them tight in the cast. I have never tried using steel bolts, but they would probably work. I was taught to start at one end of the crack and work toward the other end overlaping the bolts so they can not work lose. You use a sharp center punch to stake the last bolt.



The repair works best if you do not tap completely through the side of the block so the bolt will enter the whole depth of the block but will be tight because the threads are not completely cut in the bottom of the hole. I always use #1 hardening Permatex to seal the threads.



I have seen this repair hold in the combustion chamber of diesel tractor heads!!!



Steve Keim

 

[DavidC]

Before you get to involved in this 53 thing check this post if you haven't already done so.

http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158986&highlight=53+block



It is your decision since you are footing the bill. If the 53 was a normal block with a crack you may stand a chance on repair but the block has stress points and thin walls to begin with.



Dave