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Cracked Block

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A friend of mine has just discovered a crack in the block of his '99. He has about 180,000 miles on the truck. The crack is on the passenger side, down below the freeze plugs, and runs almost the length of the engine, horizontially. Has anyone else ran into a problem like this?

Also, does anyone know what the block is? Someone said cast steel, which may be easier to weld than cast iron.

Thanks for any help.
 
randy,

About the cracked block. I work for Fyda Freightliner and we have seen this numerous times. The blocks always crack on the right side. I'm not sure if this is a casting problem or just weak blocks. Adding DCA (diesel coolant additive) to your coolant will cut down on your block corrosion and pitting.
 
JB Weld

I know a guy who once used JB Weld on the crack in his block of his dumptruck. Truck is still running great today and that was 130,000+ miles ago. Just a thought.



Jeremy
 
This quote is something I found on another Dodge board reguarding a 98 24v with a cracked block on the passenger rear side. This response was from a diesel mech. I cut and pasted it for everyone to see:



On the gentleman's comments about 98 24 valve block cracking, I have seen several of these 24 valves w/cracked blocks. Mileages from 30k to 120k. This cracking is due to inherent vibrations of 24 valve engine along with the fact that the cyl block is only 6mm thick at area where water jacket opens up to outside of block, normally block will crack at right rear side of engine just below frost plugs. Coolant will fester from block, usually will not have instant loss of coolant, it will progress to leaking worse and worse as time goes on. Have only seen a few bad blocks in the Dodges, most failures have been in buses or medium duty truck applications. Blocks were beefed up to 12mm of material at right side of block. Some pattern 54 blocks still may not be 12mm. Block has a stamping near power steering pump area, 53,54,55.
 
well i finally found my casting number , truck built 3rd week dec 1999 , block as the big %# on it ... oh well i'll start saving my pennies now for a new block since i am my own warranty station
 
I have a question. If you are going to replace the block anyway, why not try gouging it out around the crank so you have a V-shape with a gouger or a grinder. Then make a whole bunch of passes with an arc welder and fill it in. Could just be a waste of time, on the other hand, it could save you a few $$. If that might not be strong enough, weld another plate over that. :confused:
 
Originally posted by CAnderson

I have a question. If you are going to replace the block anyway, why not try gouging it out around the crank so you have a V-shape with a gouger or a grinder. Then make a whole bunch of passes with an arc welder and fill it in. Could just be a waste of time, on the other hand, it could save you a few $$. If that might not be strong enough, weld another plate over that. :confused:



I agree Chris, If I wasn't getting a free engine from Dodge, it seems like a no brainer to just weld a plate over the crack and drive it. Wouldn't even need to take it out of the truck to fix it.
 
I agree that it probably wouldn't hold if only one pass was made with the welder. That is why it would be necessary to remove the oil pan, gouge out the surface to a v shape at the crack, and then clean the back, and then put 6 or 7 passes in the groove to fill it up. I don't see how anything could be stronger than that, except a new block. Maybe it won't work, but what have you got to loose? :)
 
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