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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cracked Exhaust Manifold

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Looking for an ole 12valve

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Are the exhaust manifold fairly common to crack? I seached on here, but didn't see anything.



From what I can see, it looks like mine is cracked on the underside where the two "pipes" meet and head into the turbo.



Just wondering if I should put another stock one on or look for an aftermarket one?
 
In my limited time into dodges ive seen 2 busted in the same spot you describe so Id say its pretty common. Look into a HTT or ATS manifold they can be had for less then 400 if you shop around and are desinged better so they wont crack.
 
Had to replace the one on my 98. 5 and was told at the time that it was common. The stock one they replaced it with has made it to 365K. I think the orginal was at about 100K.
 
Nate, I got a stock one in my garage you can have for nuttin, PM me for my phone # at the house in Meridian. I'm in Afghanistan, but the wife can hook you up!! I went with the ATS for better flow, got a good deal on it on TDR. :D



Tom
 
My stocker shrank on me. All but 2 of the bolts were bent. The ATS is a much better manifold. HTT didn't have their on the market at the time, but have seen them in person since. Both are nice pieces. :D
 
You know what the weird thing is, just Friday night one of my friends (Duramax owner) asked me if I ever had to replace the manifold from it cracking. (I guess his Dad has a Cummins and they had to replace the manifold)



I told him nope, never heard of them cracking... (how dare he question the mighty Cummins?) haha.
 
I put the ATS 3 piece oen on 40k ago for better flow, 3 pieces so it can flex, WAY heavier tube walls (about 2x thickness).



HOWEVER a word of caution.



READ several threads about keeping the non stock manifolds bolted up correctly (one of the threads I started). Because they have larger tubes there are 2 OEM bolts that do not work because fo the mechanical interfearance of the OEM bolt and the tube (10 work fine). I have a long thread about keeping the correct torque on these two locations. There is a elastic / plastic, bolt / stud issue that is not "just torque it tighter".



Also there is a TSB about the "dog bone" stainless steel OEM manifold bolt keepers (which work very well).



Bob Weis
 
i just replaced mine last week, i was cracked all the way around where the turbo mounts up, i ended up putting a ATS manifold on. you can find them real cheap on ebay for about 400 bucks
 
98. 5-99 are common to crack the later 24v manifold are made better. The aftermarket manifold do have there benefits. Be glad to help out with one ATS or HTT.
 
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