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Craftsman Torque Wrench

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I have 3 Matco torque wrenches, and they seem to be pretty good, I have used the crap out of the 1/2" and it works great, I also have the 3/8" flex-head and 1/4" torque screwdriver. The 1/2" and 3/8" have no plastic pieces that I can tell. Not sure on the 1/4", but it is a pretty hefty piece too.



Steven
 
Got my CDI torque wrench in the mail today. Nice finish, smooth mechanism, laser etched numbers, positive lock ring, case included. Two things I don't like, wrench is all metal, which is great, but the handle has a plastic end cap. Second, ratchet direction lever moves more freely than I like, stays in place but doesn't have a lot of tension. Other than that it seems to be a good value for the price. It also came with a certificate showing how accurate the calibration was, something that a lot of makers charge extra for. With shop repair prices at 80-90 dollars an hour it doesn't take long for a do-it-yourselfer to pay for a lot of tools.



Bill
 
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Okay, I'll stir the pot :D



If I was mechanicing professionally, I would see the need for an accurate AND precise Twrench.



But since I'm a DYI, shade tree, survival mode (I fix it or it don't get fixed), baling-twine-and-duct-tape sort of mechanic I've operated under the theoretic principle that my Twrench doesn't necessarily have to be accurate but it does need to be precise.



So thus forth, even if my inexpensive Twrench isn't calibrated, the more important thing is precision.



Go ahead, take a swing. ;)



PS: Having said that, I'll be on the lookout for a quality Twrench at the pawn shops. :p
 
Here is an interesting article that I found on a diesel forum on the web for all of us do-it-yourselfers. I copied it because the link below doesn't connect. It outlines a way to check the accuracy of your torque wrench... .



http://www.dieseldoctor.com/messageboard/data/229.html



Subject: How to calibrate a torque wrench in your own shop.





-------------------------------------------------------

Put the square drive of the wrench in a vise, making sure

that the body of the wrench isn't touching (only the square

drive touches the vise)



Ratchet the wrench to a horizontal position.



Okay, first, how to do the "micrometer" or "Click" type of

torque wrench (the beam needle type is below that, but bothe

start with the wrench held horizontal by clamping the square

drive in a vice in such a way that ONLY the square drive is

in contact with the vice).



Measure out from the center of the square drive (this coincides

with the center of the fastener, the wrench may or may not ratchet

about this same point).



You can determine the center of the square drive by the point

at which two diagonal lines from the corners of the square intersect.

Mark this distance on the handle. Choose somewhere convenient,

like at an even number of inches near where your hand would be.



Write down this distance in inches or feet, depending if your

wrench is marked in inch pounds (in. lb) or foot pounds (ft lb).



Get a weight, somewhere near the amount of force you might

typically extert on the handle (say, 20 lb, or 40 lb).



Multiply the distance from the center of the square drive by

the weight you will use.



If you wrench is a clicker type, set it to the number you

got when you multiplied the distance by the weight (inch lb

or ft lb). If it isn't the clicker type, read this anyway,

and then read the section on beam/pointer type wrenches.



Using bailing wire, hang the weight at the mark on the handle.



If the wrench clicks, lift the weight, move it closer to the handle,

let the weight hang at the new location. You might start by moving it

an inch or two, and see if it still clicks.



If it still clicks, keep moving it closer until it doesn't, then gradually

move farter out (away from the vice) until you find the transition

point between where it clicks, and where it doesn't.



Measure this distance. This is a new distance. You can now

use the ratio of the new distance, and the first (expected)

distance to determine a calibration factor.



If the wrench didn't click when you first tried hanging the weight,

find how much farther out you have to hang the weight to make it

click. try to find the transition point. Measure this distance.

You will similarly use this distance to determine a calibration ratio.



Let:



Ts = the torque setting on the wrench.

D1 = distance measured first (to the mark you made)

D2 = distance to point at which wrench actually clicked.

Ta = actual torque the wrench is applying.



So, if you set your wrench to a given torque value (Ts)

the torque it is actually applying is:



Ta = Ts x (D2/D1)



And, if you want a certain actual torque (Ta) applied to a fastener,

you would set your wrench to a value given by this equation:



Ts = Ta x (D1/D2)



Okay, put the wrench in the vise as described.



Mark it at 24" from the center of the square drive.



Get a 20 Lb weight.



Set the wrench to 480 inch lbs or 40 ft lbs.



Hang the weight on the line.

If it clicks, move it towards the vice, if it diesn't, move it

towards the free end (away from the square drive).



Find where the threshold between where it wil & won't

click is. Lets say that's at 26 inches.



Okay, the torque it applied when you first hung the weight was

480 inch lb.



The torque it took to make it click at that setting was 26 in. x 20 lb

= 520 in lb (divide by 12 to get ft lb)



But from now on, with this info, you can do the following...



If you want to apply a certain amount, say 50 ft. lb. ,

Just multiply 50 by 24/26 (or 12/13 if you're watching)



so 50 x 12/13 = 46. 15



So, to torque a bolt to 50 lb, set your wrench to 46 "and a hair" ft lb.



Easy enough, eh?



Actually, once you know the ratio (like 12/13 = . 923)

all you have to do is multiply the torque you want on the

bolt by that number (. 923) to tell you what setting to

put the wrench at.



I'll have to give instructions for the beam / needle (pointer)

type wrench later.



#ad




Okay, for the beam / needle pointer type torque wrench:



Mark the torque wrench handle at a known distance from

the center of the square drive (you don't really even have

to mark it, just choose a convenient number like 10", 12",

24"... ). Record this distance (D1).



Multiply the distence above by the weight.



Now move the hang point of weight along the handle until

the torque wrench needle is pointing to the value of torque

calculated above.



Measure the distance from the center of the square drive

to the point that the weight is now hanging, and that is the

the other distance (D2). These two distances will be used to

calculate a calibration ratio.



Now the equation is similar:



Let:

Ts = the torque that you will read on the pointer

D1 = the initial distance to apply the actual torque

D2 = the distance to make the needle point to the value calculated

Ta = the calculated torque from the cosen distance X known weight.



Okay here is an example.



I'll choose 24" (D1) and 20 lb again. We know that if we hang

a 20 lb weight 24" fron the center of the square drive, we are

applying 480 inch Lb (40 ft lb).



So, now we will move the weight until the needle points to

480 inch lb, or 40 ft lb. (if the needle was pointing to less

than the known torque, move the weight away from the square

drive (which is in the vice).



Now measure that distance (D2). Let's say it's 26"...



So, to torque a fastener to a desired value (say, 50 ft lb)



Using Ts = Ta x (D1/D2) = 50 x 24/26 = 50 x 12/13= 46. 15



So if you pull on the torque wrench until the needle points to

46. 15 ft lb you will be applying the desired 50 ft lb.



And there you have it.

Essentially, your torque wrench was reading lower than the

torque it was actually applying, so if you pulled on it until

it read the torque you wanted, you would be overtightening

the fastener.



And, once again, Actually, after you know the ratio

(like 12/13 = . 923) all you have to do is multiply the torque you

want on the bolt by that number (. 923) to tell you what setting to

read on the wrench to get that actual torque.
 
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RT66DOC said:
Next thing, we'll be seeing Sears ads on TV with a scantily-clad Martha Stewart :eek: holding a tool :cool: of some sort - much like the old Snap-On and Ridgid calendars.



EEW!!!!!! :--) :--) :--)
 
I have a Harbor Freight torque wrench, 20-150 ft. lbs. but I needed something heavier. I work on heavy equipment, try torqueing 8 lug nuts x 4 wheels to 150 ft lbs with a 20 inch long tool, it gets old fast. I looked at CM T-wrenches and I was not impressed, too short. I went to Home Depot and looked at a Husky, 26 or 27 inches long, for $70. I bought it and I love it, works good and I don't kill myself with it. Snap on wanted $285 for a comparable one, or the digital was on sale for $385 ! I still use the old one for small stuff. Home Depot has a growing selection of tools, now I go look there to look also for stuff.
 
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