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crankcase beather
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No, it just came out.
However, I see a problem with it: Heater hose for the connection. This will fail in a couple years because it doesn't like petroleum running through it. I've been meaning to e-mail Robert about this.
When I was a kid my Dad bought a boat with a rubber hose on the fuel fill line (50 gal tank). We went to use it once and (as usual) ran the blower/bilge pump. Started hearing sound of fluid being pumped overboard. Opened the engine cover and saw about 8 gal of gas in hull. We visually inspect every time now.
At that point the boat was 5 years old and the hose had rotted off. Replaced with correct type and it is good to this day.
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'94 3500 4x4, 204,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member. Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"
However, I see a problem with it: Heater hose for the connection. This will fail in a couple years because it doesn't like petroleum running through it. I've been meaning to e-mail Robert about this.
When I was a kid my Dad bought a boat with a rubber hose on the fuel fill line (50 gal tank). We went to use it once and (as usual) ran the blower/bilge pump. Started hearing sound of fluid being pumped overboard. Opened the engine cover and saw about 8 gal of gas in hull. We visually inspect every time now.
At that point the boat was 5 years old and the hose had rotted off. Replaced with correct type and it is good to this day.
------------------
'94 3500 4x4, 204,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member. Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"
The stock bottle is pretty lame. Looks like whoever designed it ought to be fired.
Check out www.summitracing.com
part #SUM-G1504
looks like the same bottle.
Also check out www.jegs.com
search with "breather tank"
These have possibilities.
Sam
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2001. 5 2500 QC HO 6sp LB 3. 54LS everything except leather, white/agate
[This message has been edited by Ram4Sam (edited 11-27-2000). ]
Check out www.summitracing.com
part #SUM-G1504
looks like the same bottle.
Also check out www.jegs.com
search with "breather tank"
These have possibilities.
Sam
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2001. 5 2500 QC HO 6sp LB 3. 54LS everything except leather, white/agate
[This message has been edited by Ram4Sam (edited 11-27-2000). ]
I just ordered this kit from Geno's this afternoon. I just cancelled it and ordered the one from Summit. Who cares if the heater hose deteriorates. For the amount of oil going through it, it would take years for it to break down. Even if it does break down, so what, it's not like a crucial line. -Glen
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1998 12 valve 2500 Quad Cab, A/T, 4. 10, Deep Amethyst, 4. 5" Skyjacker Double Flex lift kit, 36. 0"x14. 5"x16. 5" TSL Super Swamper radials on 16. 5"x9. 75" Weld Typhoons, Speedliner spray in liner, Raven high rise cap, J&J stainless steel Nerf-N-Steps, 4" Jardine exhaust, 370 HP Diamond B Injectors,JRE #3 plate, DTT VB & converter
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1998 12 valve 2500 Quad Cab, A/T, 4. 10, Deep Amethyst, 4. 5" Skyjacker Double Flex lift kit, 36. 0"x14. 5"x16. 5" TSL Super Swamper radials on 16. 5"x9. 75" Weld Typhoons, Speedliner spray in liner, Raven high rise cap, J&J stainless steel Nerf-N-Steps, 4" Jardine exhaust, 370 HP Diamond B Injectors,JRE #3 plate, DTT VB & converter
Looks good, but how do we adapt the AN inlet to fit a 3/4" hose? The Summit 1 quart breather looks like the best buy. Great tip guys!
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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover
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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover
Sorry for the stupidity, but is the tank you guys talking about, right behind the fan on the driver side of the engine? If so then mine is always covered with an oily residue. I checked the lid and tightened it all the way. It was about 1/2-1 turn loose. However, the residue is still returning on the outside of the bottle?
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'01 BLK QUAD-CAB, ETH, 6-SPEED, HX-40, DD BOOST MODULE, STAGE III INJECTORS, ATS MANIFOLD, 4" EXHAUST, BED LINER, CLARION PPD KICKER FOCAL STEREO
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'01 BLK QUAD-CAB, ETH, 6-SPEED, HX-40, DD BOOST MODULE, STAGE III INJECTORS, ATS MANIFOLD, 4" EXHAUST, BED LINER, CLARION PPD KICKER FOCAL STEREO
Here are some more bottles.
www.jazproducts.com
Listed under "catch tanks"
Sam
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2001. 5 2500 QC HO 6sp LB 3. 54LS everything except leather, white/agate
www.jazproducts.com
Listed under "catch tanks"
Sam
------------------
2001. 5 2500 QC HO 6sp LB 3. 54LS everything except leather, white/agate
BLKDEMON
You can tighten it all you want, that won't stop the oily spray from exiting the holes at the top of the bottle. Do yourself and your engine a favor and re-route that stinkin bottle away from your engine.
Scott W.
White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro and boost gauges,Mopar tonneau,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A><font color="#F7F7F7">
[This message has been edited by Bigsaint (edited 11-28-2000). ]
You can tighten it all you want, that won't stop the oily spray from exiting the holes at the top of the bottle. Do yourself and your engine a favor and re-route that stinkin bottle away from your engine.
Scott W.
White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro and boost gauges,Mopar tonneau,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A><font color="#F7F7F7">
[This message has been edited by Bigsaint (edited 11-28-2000). ]
drag racer and I disagree. I've see heater hose rot off after about 2 years when being used as a breather on a gasser. The fumes appear to attack as good as the fluid does. He probably has an opposite experience from me. You know what they say about opinions... 
#ad
That being said, I will e-mail Robert & give him my insight. Some of you guys found the catch can cheaper and want to know about adapters etc. That's what the increased price from Geno's is for. If this was out two years ago, I would have bought one put the hose on the shelf, used a different hose and installed it without much thought. I have an antacid bottle in place now, it works and I have other things to work on! (front u-joint).
BOMB on!
------------------
'94 3500 4x4, 204,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member. Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"
#adThat being said, I will e-mail Robert & give him my insight. Some of you guys found the catch can cheaper and want to know about adapters etc. That's what the increased price from Geno's is for. If this was out two years ago, I would have bought one put the hose on the shelf, used a different hose and installed it without much thought. I have an antacid bottle in place now, it works and I have other things to work on! (front u-joint).
BOMB on!
------------------
'94 3500 4x4, 204,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member. Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"
Extreme1,
My stated opinion is basically gut feel. I can't say that I've ever seen a rubber hose rot from carrying petroleum-based compounds, but I certainly respect your experiences you have shared, and have taken note of it.
Since I have a '99, my hose was just sitting uncovered and ready to coat the whole front end with oil. I installed the Cummins "black aspirin bottle" (2000-up stock set-up) when it came out, and it seemed to help initially, but just last week I noticed that it too is now blowing the mist out all over the front end. So, now, I do have the kit on order from Genos' because it does include the hose and adapter fittings, in addition to the $26 (or whatever the price is) Summit Racing bottle. This seems like a good (hopefully the last) solution to a pesky problem. And as Glen Pratt mentioned, it is a non-critical application, so my plan is to use the hose they supply and go from there.
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'99 24V 3500 QC, 4X2, 4. 10 LSD Dana 80
[This message has been edited by drag racer (edited 11-28-2000). ]
My stated opinion is basically gut feel. I can't say that I've ever seen a rubber hose rot from carrying petroleum-based compounds, but I certainly respect your experiences you have shared, and have taken note of it.
Since I have a '99, my hose was just sitting uncovered and ready to coat the whole front end with oil. I installed the Cummins "black aspirin bottle" (2000-up stock set-up) when it came out, and it seemed to help initially, but just last week I noticed that it too is now blowing the mist out all over the front end. So, now, I do have the kit on order from Genos' because it does include the hose and adapter fittings, in addition to the $26 (or whatever the price is) Summit Racing bottle. This seems like a good (hopefully the last) solution to a pesky problem. And as Glen Pratt mentioned, it is a non-critical application, so my plan is to use the hose they supply and go from there.
------------------
'99 24V 3500 QC, 4X2, 4. 10 LSD Dana 80
[This message has been edited by drag racer (edited 11-28-2000). ]
You guys have too much $ and not enough yankee ingenuity. Go to the hardware store and buy a 3/4 inch plastic barbed 90 elbo and 15 feet of plastic 3/4 ID tubing. Attach fitting and hose and route the hose along the frame using tie wraps. Attach aspirin bottle to hose end!!! Total bill: $3. 78
Do yourself a favor and take your wife to lunch with the $ saved and we all know just how pleasant a happy wife is.
Paul R. Haller
Do yourself a favor and take your wife to lunch with the $ saved and we all know just how pleasant a happy wife is.
Paul R. Haller
Certainly, you can build a crankcase breather vent tube catch-all. The following is the bill of materials and the Geno’s Garage instructions which were written after someone on the Geno’s Garage staff spent a fair amount of time researching, tinkering and testing.
o 1 - 6’ x ¾” heater hose
o 1 - 1’ x ¼” vent tube
o 1 - ¾” x ¾” plastic male coupling (24-valve engines)
o 1 - ¾” x 11/16” brass fitting (12-valve engines)
o 1 - ¾” x 1” male barb
o 3 - ¾” hose clamps
o 1 - 1” drill bit
o 1 - ¾” x 45-degree turn down
o 1 - Summit Racing Catch-all part number SUM-G1504, price $29. 99 + shipping and handling
o Epoxy
With the exception of the Summit Racing Catch-all, most parts can be found at your local hardware store. Finding the 45-degree turn down is important as the crankcase vapors did want to come back out of the breather cap on our test model. You can make a cost-effective, non-critical, choice to use off-the-shelf heater hose (and possibly replace in five years as suggested). We will research Tigon/Viton type ¾” hose. In the absence of instructions, you’ll have to spend time “engineering” the kit (but we’ve provided the Geno’s Garage instructions below).
The product is available through Geno’s Garage, but feel free to use your own resources to build your own. You decide the value of your time.
Installation Instructions:
Your Catch-all can be mounted in any vertical location. Because of its 13” overall length, we chose the front, driver’s side of the plastic fender well to mount the Catch-all.
Note: Inside the Catch-all, the breather fumes are directed 45o downward. Even with the fumes directed downward, experience has proven that the Catch-all breather needs to be vertical or oil will collect/seep out of the breather.
·For access to the fender well, we suggest turning the steering wheel all of way to the left.
·Vertically test fit the Catch-all to the fender well. The top of the breather should be positioned ½” from the bottom of the back/bottom side of the battery box.
·With a ½” clearance at the top, the drain valve should be barely visible under the bottom of the plastic fender well. As there is a small plastic lip at the bottom of the fender well, you will need to cut it off to allow the Catch-all to flush mount to the fender well.
·With the Catch-all in its temporary position, mark the fender well and drill two 3/8” holes (the center line distance between the holes is 3 ½”) through the plastic fender well for mounting.
·For 1998. 5 and up trucks/24-valve applications, attach your existing ¾” breather tube to one side of the male-to-male hose barb. Attach the ¾” hose supplied in the kit to the other side of the barb. Tighten the hose clamps. Test fit and route the ¾” hose to the Catch-all and assembly. Cut hose to length and press on to the hose barb. Tighten the clamp.
·For 1994 – 1998. 5/12-valve applications, the breather tube is 11/16”, an odd size. The transition from the 11/16” breather tube to the ¾” hose supplied in the kit is done with a brass fitting. Insert the fitting into the ¾” hose first as you will have to push/stretch (a soapy solution will help) the hose to insert the fitting. The fitting should slip easily into the 11/16” breather tube. Tighten the clamps. Test fit and route the ¾” hose to the Catch-all assembly. Cut hose to length and press on to the hose barb. Tighten the clamp.
·Install the kit to the fender well with the two 7/16” bolts supplied with the kit.
·Important final note: Double check your routing of the ¾” hose to assure there are no kinks in the hose. Kinks to the hose would not allow for engine breathing and could cause seal leakage.
Maintenance Instructions:
Drain the Catch-all at every oil change. Oil discharge should be minimal. At every other oil change, we suggest you clean the breather using a Simple Green solution and water. As a precaution against a clogged breather, we left a small ¼” vent tube at the top of the breather.
Hope this helps those of you wanting the purchase a kit and those of you wanting to build your own.
Robin
Geno's Garage
o 1 - 6’ x ¾” heater hose
o 1 - 1’ x ¼” vent tube
o 1 - ¾” x ¾” plastic male coupling (24-valve engines)
o 1 - ¾” x 11/16” brass fitting (12-valve engines)
o 1 - ¾” x 1” male barb
o 3 - ¾” hose clamps
o 1 - 1” drill bit
o 1 - ¾” x 45-degree turn down
o 1 - Summit Racing Catch-all part number SUM-G1504, price $29. 99 + shipping and handling
o Epoxy
With the exception of the Summit Racing Catch-all, most parts can be found at your local hardware store. Finding the 45-degree turn down is important as the crankcase vapors did want to come back out of the breather cap on our test model. You can make a cost-effective, non-critical, choice to use off-the-shelf heater hose (and possibly replace in five years as suggested). We will research Tigon/Viton type ¾” hose. In the absence of instructions, you’ll have to spend time “engineering” the kit (but we’ve provided the Geno’s Garage instructions below).
The product is available through Geno’s Garage, but feel free to use your own resources to build your own. You decide the value of your time.
Installation Instructions:
Your Catch-all can be mounted in any vertical location. Because of its 13” overall length, we chose the front, driver’s side of the plastic fender well to mount the Catch-all.
Note: Inside the Catch-all, the breather fumes are directed 45o downward. Even with the fumes directed downward, experience has proven that the Catch-all breather needs to be vertical or oil will collect/seep out of the breather.
·For access to the fender well, we suggest turning the steering wheel all of way to the left.
·Vertically test fit the Catch-all to the fender well. The top of the breather should be positioned ½” from the bottom of the back/bottom side of the battery box.
·With a ½” clearance at the top, the drain valve should be barely visible under the bottom of the plastic fender well. As there is a small plastic lip at the bottom of the fender well, you will need to cut it off to allow the Catch-all to flush mount to the fender well.
·With the Catch-all in its temporary position, mark the fender well and drill two 3/8” holes (the center line distance between the holes is 3 ½”) through the plastic fender well for mounting.
·For 1998. 5 and up trucks/24-valve applications, attach your existing ¾” breather tube to one side of the male-to-male hose barb. Attach the ¾” hose supplied in the kit to the other side of the barb. Tighten the hose clamps. Test fit and route the ¾” hose to the Catch-all and assembly. Cut hose to length and press on to the hose barb. Tighten the clamp.
·For 1994 – 1998. 5/12-valve applications, the breather tube is 11/16”, an odd size. The transition from the 11/16” breather tube to the ¾” hose supplied in the kit is done with a brass fitting. Insert the fitting into the ¾” hose first as you will have to push/stretch (a soapy solution will help) the hose to insert the fitting. The fitting should slip easily into the 11/16” breather tube. Tighten the clamps. Test fit and route the ¾” hose to the Catch-all assembly. Cut hose to length and press on to the hose barb. Tighten the clamp.
·Install the kit to the fender well with the two 7/16” bolts supplied with the kit.
·Important final note: Double check your routing of the ¾” hose to assure there are no kinks in the hose. Kinks to the hose would not allow for engine breathing and could cause seal leakage.
Maintenance Instructions:
Drain the Catch-all at every oil change. Oil discharge should be minimal. At every other oil change, we suggest you clean the breather using a Simple Green solution and water. As a precaution against a clogged breather, we left a small ¼” vent tube at the top of the breather.
Hope this helps those of you wanting the purchase a kit and those of you wanting to build your own.
Robin
Geno's Garage
How about this way:
1 hose clamp.
7 feet or so of cheap clear plastic hose from the hardware store.
Installation instructions.
Run hose inside of frame rail starting at the first gap in front of the driver's side rear tire. Put it out of the frame rail opposite the starter. Yank off old vent tube. Pass end of hose between the starter and the block. Clamp in on the vent outlet. Trim off excess hose where it comes out of the frame in front of the rear wheel.
Maintenance.
Forget about it.
------------------
Joe George
Eureka, CA
'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
1 hose clamp.
7 feet or so of cheap clear plastic hose from the hardware store.
Installation instructions.
Run hose inside of frame rail starting at the first gap in front of the driver's side rear tire. Put it out of the frame rail opposite the starter. Yank off old vent tube. Pass end of hose between the starter and the block. Clamp in on the vent outlet. Trim off excess hose where it comes out of the frame in front of the rear wheel.
Maintenance.
Forget about it.
------------------
Joe George
Eureka, CA
'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
