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Crankshaft barring tool 7471b ???

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Found MY truck!

dipstick spitting oil

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Tell me what I think I already know X 2



Question # 1 -

I definitly need this tool to rotate the crank so I can adjust the valves. :( Is there another way to rotate the crank acurately enough to adj the valves? I'm used to throwing the breaker bar on the main bolt and rotatin it, guess this won't work on our diesels eh?



Question # 2

There's no place I can get this tool on a Saturday, as Cummins is closed or would the stealer have it :-laf Just kidding I'll bet the stealer wouldn't even know what I'd be asking for. Heck I didn't until I saw it in step # 4. Possible NAPA or is this a cummins only tool.



Bummer, I really was geared up to doing this today. Gotta return r/caliper # 2. I'll check back afterwards - Maybe they will have one?
 
You should be able to get a 22mm socket on the alternator bolt and turn the engine backwards. I've done that a few times on my 12 valver.
 
My crankshaft pulley had 4 small bolts instead of 1 large bolt. . They came out pretty easy when I had to take the pulley off, but they may work. The alternator seems to be the easiest way to do it since it's right on top of the engine.
 
I'm new to the over-valved engine, so is the timing pin for locating TDC still located below the injection pump? I have not purchased a 2002 factory service manual yet, so was just curious as to what or if any things are different for valve adj on the 24 valve engines.



On my '95 I've always used the barring tool to turn the engine, then when close to TDC I will SLOWLY turn the engine while pushing in on the timing pin until it pops in. Then disengaged the pin, adj the proper valves, rotate the engine over and adj the other half. Is this still the same procedure for the 24 valve (with the exception of there being twice as many valves to adj)??



PS: Anyone know if the barring tool (Cummins part # 3824591) I use on my '95 truck will also work on a 2002 ETH??
 
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You can take off the flywheel access cover behind the oil pan and use a large flat head screw driver on the teeth. If you could find out how many teeth an on the flywheel you could use tooth count to find TDC on each cyl. That might be the hard way though.
 
Hey ituffram, there isn't a timing pin on the isb like the 12 vavle trucks. What you do is take the oil puke tube off of the front of the timing cover, and then unscrew the "breather box" or what ever you want to call it off of the front of the cover so you can see the front of the pump nut. there is a witness line stamped in to the timing cover that says TDC and there is a line stamped on the pump gear. Bar the engine over till they line up and you are at tdc, turn the engine over 360 degrees, and the line on the pump gear will now face straight down and you can do the other six valves. It helps to have a small mirror and flash lite to line up the marks. As far as the rest of the procedure, pretty much the same as on the 12 valves, and no you dont have to adjust twice as many valves, there is a "bridge" between the 2 exhast and 2 intake valves of each cylinder, so you still only make one adjustment for each set.
 
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You really should not turn the engine over backwards to adjust the valves. The lash in the entire valvetrain is going the wrong way. To adjust them accurately turn the engine over forward. Then turn it over a couple turns and recheck them.
 
I use the alternator turning method. On the 12v's that I work on,once I locate TDC with the pin, I mark the balancer and a corresponding place on the timing cover for future reference. This will work on the 24v also. A few degrees either side of TDC won't make any differance. An easy way to put yourself in the ball park for locating #1 TDC on a 12 valve (so you don't have to push the pin the whole time you are trying to find TDC) is to turn the engine and watch # 6 valves. Just as the #6 exaust valve is closed and #6 intake starts to open, #1 should be right close to TDC ready to push in the locator pin. Chris
 
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Thanks to all!

Thanks guys - I'm going to get a remote started button and go for it. Let you know how it went later on.



Thanks again. :D
 
Another way is to find the over lap of the valves, when the intake valve just starts down on # 6 valve then you are close enough to TDC to ajust valves. rotate 360 till #1 intake starts down and do the rest. or take a little more time and do every one that way

The pairring up is 1-6 2-5 3-4 or what add to 7. this is a little more percise and take a little longer. My . 02$
 
snap on

Snap on makes a barring tool that has the ability to adjust the depth (via spacer) to be used on both the standard flywheel and the ETH flywheel.
 
Finished - Fun Job!

Thanks to all for the info. I used a combination of LSMITH and Motorhead's suggestions. Used a bump start button and then dialed it back with the alternator. Hardest part of the whole job was getting the blasted valve cover off and back on:mad: without tearing the under cowel insulation to shreads with the 5th bolt. Also, of course after I was done the job, I saw somewhere that removing the hoist loop makes it easier to get teh cover off - figures.



I was very impressed with how clean everything was underneath the cover, the springs still had paint stripes on them:D The underside of the cover looked as if it had been wiped clean:p Guess I'm used to seeing how cruddy neglected gasser's look when they are opened up. Also, what a reall neat set up operating two valves with one rocker arm - never saw one opened up before - pretty cool:p



All the valves were well withing specs Exhausts were . 021 - . 025. Intakes were . 013 - . 014. Set them @ . 020 & . 010.



One thing that had me going for a bit was the removing the timing gear cover/puke tube. It goes about 1/2 turn counter clock wise then pulls out.



Thanks again;)
 
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