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Creating and Maintaining a Swirl-Free Finish

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Vaughn MacKenzie

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I am looking for the detail experts among us. I read the acticle in the previous issue of TDR explaining finish care and what products to use and how to occasionally remove swirl marks using a glaze and polish once or twice a year.



I have experimented in one small area on my Patriot Blue Ram and the Meguiar's #7 (or whatever the glaze is for hand application) did a great job of removing the swirl marks. Boy it looked fantastic!



But 1 wash later, swirl city again :(

So the million-dollar question. . . did I actually remove the swirl marks, or fill them in with the compound, which was then removed during washing, revealing the same old swirl marks?



Let's say I did remove the swirl marks, but just created a new batch during washing. My truck was quite grimy, but I use lots of wash suds and went gently in 2-3 steps, but it seems to no avail.



Is there a way to wash which will minimize abrasive friction to the paint surface? I use a wool wash mitt but it's seen better days, maybe a new one would help. What about those fancy horse-hair brushes or whatever they're made of?



Thanks all,



Vaughn
 
Are the swirl marks from getting the truck buffed? If so, a good quality wax or polish will take care of the swirl marks, as you have found. However, when you wash your truck make sure to use an equally quality brand of car wash concentrate. I have found mothers or meguire to be good stuff. If you use cheap soap or dish soap, you will remove the wax or polish that you have applied. I suspect this is what happened.
 
Vaughn,



Yes, you filled in the swirl marks, then washed the compound out again. The only way to eliminate swirl marks is to remove some of the clearcoat around them. You do this with a polishing compound and a buffing wheel. However, unless you really know what you're doing, this is best left to a provessional.



What you can do, is wash the vehicle with a good car wash soap, clay-bar the vehicle to remove any of the embedded impurities, fill the swirls with a swirl remover (Meguiar's #9), polish the paint with a polish (Meguiar's #7), then apply a coat of wax. The wax forms a protective layer over the paint and the swirl filler. The next time you wash it (provided you use a car wash soap, that's formulated to remove the dirt but not strip off the wax), the swirls shouldn't re-appear. Of course, if you're using a sponge to wash the truck, you're probably creating new swirl marks. Use a wash mitt, and use a separate mitt for the rocker panels and generally anything below the body trim. This will ensure that you don't transfer all that grime and grit up to the top of the truck.



The process can be made a little easier by the use of a dual-action polisher, like the one Griot's Garage sells. Unlike a buffer, this CAN be used by the non-professional. Because of the dual-action, it won't allow you to burn through the paint. Make sure to use separate pads for each compound applied.



All this talk has reminded me of something... I really need to wash my truck :D



-Tom
 
Go to url: http://www.formula113.com/

They make a 'cream like' wax that is easy to apply and remove. All swirls and scratches to the clear coat are removed. It also comes off dust free, so if you have a dark colored truck, it is not full of dust when you finish. I also use this stuff on my motorcycle and the paint remains flawless.
 
Vaughn,



I've used Finesse-It II liquid in the past to remove swirl marks.



http://www.autobodydepot.net/scripts/depot.exe?pgm=3m450-4.bbx



I came across it when I got some very light paint overspray on one of my trucks. I used this and one of the 3M foam pads on a Snap On buffer. The overspray was gone and so was all of the swirl marks. I then reapplied a good wax to seal it back up. The surface was like glass. Hope this helps.



Jay R.



http://www.autobodydepot.net/script...custnum=WEB-CUST++&password=&sesid=0607092838
 
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2 solutions to the problem:



1. WHITE truck - yeah, they get swirls too, ya just can't SEE them!



2. Don't wash the truck so often - and again you don't NEED to with a WHITE truck! ;) :D



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my first wax job, black truck, bought zanios brothers showcar kit.

dovedishwashing soap first, clay bar 2nd, one coat so far of z5. outstanding.

found several bad paint spots, clay bar helped. rained 2 hrs later.
 
Vaughn,

I know you are looking for the experts out there, don't claim to be one but i do have alot of experience with cars & trucks and their finishes. I have always had at least one BLACK vehicle since the last 20 years or so. I think they must be the worst to keep looking good.

I don't want to insult you with the small stuff, but will go over it in case someone finds it useful.

Washing-I think this is as much responsible for bad finishes as anything. Never go thru a automatic washer, always start with a clean wash miit and a bucket of clean soapy water. Wet truck and wash from the top down, rinsing often. Dark vehicles do not do well when washed in bright sunlight. I have found that the Mr. Clean Washing system works and works very well. If used properly it will prevent water spots. If you dry your truck, use only 100% cotton cloths, and when finished wash them for the next time along with the wash mitt. By washing top to bottom, the dirt is always falling away from the clean area, the last items to be washed should be the lower rockers, wheels and door sill areas.

Spot cleaning-this just means to clean spots like bird droppings ect as soon as possible. Leave a spray bottle with water or instant detail spray handy in the garage and take care of them as needed. Use clean cotton cloth and allow water to soften the area.

Pre-wax-After a good cleaning I like to use painter clay, sometimes called body clay, to remove some of the deep dirt that has attached itself to the paint. I simply clean as described above, they with a slow stream of flowing water rub the clay in a circular motion cleaning an area of about 2' x 2' at a time. Often I will make a new bucket of hot soapy water and dip the clay in that. Turn the clay over as it gets dirty. This will surprise you if you have never cleaned this way, there is alot of contaminates that are not easily seen. This prepares the surface for waxing, and really makes the difference between a good wax job and a great wax job.

Waxing-Any good quality wax will do, I like Maguires but that's me. After the surface has been deep cleaned and dried apply your wax in small areas, like half the hood at a time. Also most waxes work best when done in the shade. The wax should be applied even and with several strokes. Allow to haze and remove by wiping with a clean cotton cloth, turn the cloth as needed. Be careful to avoid nameplates, molding, some decals and trim, the black molding and trim dodge uses is a bear to get wax off of. Work your way around the truck, don't worry about all the small white dust like particles, you can get that when you finish and come back with another clean cloth.

I do not like to use buffers or polishes, they are far to abrasive for most clear coat finishes. They are ok for older cars that are damaged by abuse, or scratched by auto car washes, but remember they work by removing a portion of the clear coat, you only have about 30/1000's of clear so try and stay away from that option. Buffers should only be used on damaged surfaces also, they will burn thru the clear very fast and really have no place on a new or newer truck. The best results come from good old elbow grease, buffers are for the lazy!

Keep the trucks finish as clean as time permits, wash as often as you can, and spot clean as needed. Bird droppings will eat through your finish, so remove them. Never try and wipe off something with a dirty or dry cloth, it will scratch the clear. Dodge has a reputation of applying very thin base and clear coats, they scratch very easy and don't take well to abuse. If you do end up with a scratch, get it fixed by a body shop or with Duplicolor, don't allow a small scratch to turn into something larger. The faster it's fixed the better and small scratches can be filled with a like color, and waxed over to look pretty good.

Add ons- Anytime you add something aftermarket to your truck that requires you to drill a surface, body, bed, or bumper, use a small amount of clear RTV sealant on the bolt or screw. This will help seal out moisture and protect the area, even more important if you live in the SALT belt areas like me. To many times I have seen two-three year old trucks with rust spot where someone add a light, fender flair, antenna, grill guard, ect.

Hope all this rambling helps, I keep all my vehicles up and the pay off is a nice finish for many years. I average a washing once a week, and a waxing once every 3 months. Sometimes I just hit the top areas that seem to be more affected by the sun and debar then other areas. Wash the door sill area, door jam areas and bottom of the doors. Keep the drain holes open in the doors, this is important so as to allow the water an exit. I'm not sure about you, but i enjoy working and cleaning on the truck, I find it relaxing and peaceful. Oh yell, best thing you can do is get yourself a step to reach over the hood and up on top, I have a aluminum one that is about 36" long and 14" high works great got it at Sams.



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Great tips and suggestions, thanks everyone. Excellent writeup ynot, I wasn't too insulted :cool:



So the polish/glaze actually fills small scratches, which is preferable and makes sense, otherwise you'd wear your paint off in a few short years. What I failed to do was wax after I applied the glaze so I did not give it a good protective coat.



I finally got the hang of the clay bar and did use that and yes, it did take a lot of junk off my paint.



Blueknight and Torque I'll check out the products you posted links to, I was not familiar with either of these.



What do most of you use for a wash mitt?



Anyway I'll give it a go and go over my fenders with glaze, they seem scratched the worst, and then follow with wax. Then we'll see how it goes :)



Vaughn
 
I urge everyone to try Meguiars NXT. Its new this year, and synthetic. I found out about it on the corvette forum. Guys there are switching from Zanios to this new wax. I've put it on the vette, and just finished the hood on the CTD. WOW, no swirls and that WET look everyone is after. A couple of tips, 1 put in on thin, and really let it dry. I buff the polish off, then wait 1/2 hour and buff again.
 
Well I went after my truck tonight with a round of Meguair's #7 then followed shortly thereafter with #26 glaze wax.



The #7 makes a beautiful finish, but interestingly when I use the wax I can see a little bit of the swirling return and the finish doesn't look as deep and wet :confused:



Should I let the glaze cure for a couple hours before using wax on it?



Vaughn
 
When it is time to wax the truck, Ill buy a new one. Its all I can do to keep it clean with the Oregon rain!
 
Vaughn,



Check these folks out



www.griotsgarage.com



I've been using their stuff for years with great results. They make their own products and are a little pricey but well worth it IMHO.



All of the compunds and waxes are chemically compatible,so there's no worries about adhesion problems. Their kits come with an excellent guide to detailing. I love their orbital buffer with the FOAM bonnets. When used correctly, (easy to do) it's impossible to burn through the clearcoat.



This stuff is the fave among concours detailers for shows like Pebble Beach on zillion dollar Ferraris and such.



Hope this helps,

Vic



Oh BTW, These guys are in your backyard in WA
 
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