Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Well, there have been many questions about cross-over steering on a stock height truck, including ones I asked a couple years ago. The only examples I remember seeing were lifted trucks with droped pitman arms and plenty of clearance for a straight draglink. Well, I finally did it and thought i would show how I accomplished it and what I used to do it.
First off you will notice that my truck is not stock height (2. 5" softride springs), so how can I say this should work fine on a stock truck? Well I build my suspension and steering to use the factory bumpstop location, so it should work fine sitting a little lower.
First the parts I used:
2wd Borgeson steering shaft from Summit Racing about $200
Stock 2wd Pitman arm for 93 Dodge bought from parts.com $80 (factory Dodge parts)
High steer arm from Ballistic Fabrication bought from Poly Performance $135
High steer arm stud kit from Poly Performance $25
4' 1. 5" . 25" wall DOM tubing $40
threaded tuding inserts from Poly performance 7/8"-18tpi 1 LH 1 RH thread $13 each
Jam nuts 7/8-18 1LH 1 RH $4 each
2 left hand thread tierod ends from the parts store that matched my stock tierod. $45 each
1 tierod adjusting sleeve from the parts store for an early 80s chevy 1 ton 4x4 $15
1 5" long piece of 7/8-18 RH threaded rod (made on a friends lathe)
Picture 1 is the steering box moved to the 2wd frame holes, hooked up to the 2wd pitman arm and the Borgeson steering shaft. Pretty cut and dry here the 2wd pitmad arm was used as it fits as tightly to the frame as possible so it does not hit the spring plate as the suspension moves. The picture is a little strange, but the arm really is only about an inch from the bottom of the frame.
#ad
Picture 2 is the draglink I built. Because of the crossmember under the engine the draglink has to be shaped to miss it under suspension compression. Because the draglink is bent I used the Chevy adjustment sleeve to allow me to adjust the length to center the steering wheel (left side of picture). The draglink was shaped to fit then I welded the threaded inserts into the tube, the jamnuts are used to lock the tierod ends into the threaded inserts so they do not loosen or spin.
#ad
Picture 3 is the highsteer arm on the passenger side. This replaces the upper kingpin cap on top of the steering knuckle and can be ordered with the Tapered holes for the tierod ends.
#ad
So there you go, you can do cross over steering on a first gen Dodge and ditch that junk push pull setup with the crack prone steering box mounting plate. I have about 5000 miles on this setup including pulling my travel trailer 4000 miles around the western states and I love the precise slop free steering that I have now. Plus I can replace the tierod ends when they wear out and adjust the steering wheel center which you can't do with the factory draglink setup.
First off you will notice that my truck is not stock height (2. 5" softride springs), so how can I say this should work fine on a stock truck? Well I build my suspension and steering to use the factory bumpstop location, so it should work fine sitting a little lower.
First the parts I used:
2wd Borgeson steering shaft from Summit Racing about $200
Stock 2wd Pitman arm for 93 Dodge bought from parts.com $80 (factory Dodge parts)
High steer arm from Ballistic Fabrication bought from Poly Performance $135
High steer arm stud kit from Poly Performance $25
4' 1. 5" . 25" wall DOM tubing $40
threaded tuding inserts from Poly performance 7/8"-18tpi 1 LH 1 RH thread $13 each
Jam nuts 7/8-18 1LH 1 RH $4 each
2 left hand thread tierod ends from the parts store that matched my stock tierod. $45 each
1 tierod adjusting sleeve from the parts store for an early 80s chevy 1 ton 4x4 $15
1 5" long piece of 7/8-18 RH threaded rod (made on a friends lathe)
Picture 1 is the steering box moved to the 2wd frame holes, hooked up to the 2wd pitman arm and the Borgeson steering shaft. Pretty cut and dry here the 2wd pitmad arm was used as it fits as tightly to the frame as possible so it does not hit the spring plate as the suspension moves. The picture is a little strange, but the arm really is only about an inch from the bottom of the frame.
#adPicture 2 is the draglink I built. Because of the crossmember under the engine the draglink has to be shaped to miss it under suspension compression. Because the draglink is bent I used the Chevy adjustment sleeve to allow me to adjust the length to center the steering wheel (left side of picture). The draglink was shaped to fit then I welded the threaded inserts into the tube, the jamnuts are used to lock the tierod ends into the threaded inserts so they do not loosen or spin.
#adPicture 3 is the highsteer arm on the passenger side. This replaces the upper kingpin cap on top of the steering knuckle and can be ordered with the Tapered holes for the tierod ends.
#adSo there you go, you can do cross over steering on a first gen Dodge and ditch that junk push pull setup with the crack prone steering box mounting plate. I have about 5000 miles on this setup including pulling my travel trailer 4000 miles around the western states and I love the precise slop free steering that I have now. Plus I can replace the tierod ends when they wear out and adjust the steering wheel center which you can't do with the factory draglink setup.
Last edited:
I bought this truck from the original owner. I'm wondering where I need to start on suspension/steering overhaul? I need to bring this ol' girl back from the dead. 
