Cushioned Receiver Hitch Bars ???

[JPope]

I have seen advertisements for bumper pull type receiver hitch bars that have a cushioning element of one type or another, including cushioned pins that attach non-cushioned draw bars. The main claim is that this cushioning element protects your drive train during starting, stopping. There are also receiver hitches/rear bumpers that use some type of spring arrangement to accomplish the same purpose. Do these items accomplish this or is it advertising hype? What type of drivetrain damage could result? Most of my heavy towing is with gooseneck hitch, but do tow a bumper pull 2 horse trailer at times.

 

[GLASMITHS]

Jim: I don't know if they are any good or not; however I did order one today. I needed a new one and saw that one in Northern for 45. 00; if it works, one trip will be worth it. That jamming and clanging gets on my nerves and the wifes winds up a:-{} :-{}

 

[Extreme1]

I don't know if this applies to your trailers but surge brakes that need adjustment will jerk and make noise.



Drive train damage? I think that is a sales ploy. The drivetrains on these trucks are plenty beefy, if they weren't you see it here.

 

[GLASMITHS]

Surge Brakes??

What Brakes? Actually, I do not have brakes on my 5X8 Wells Cargo. 2500# max. But it does make a lot of noise on take off and bumps, ... ... ... ... ... ... .

 

[Deezul1]

Unless you have a condition that aggravates you save your money. I have never heard of anyone having driveline trouble from a hitch. If you are needing a hitch any way go for it cant hurt.

 

[GLASMITHS]

DEEZUL 1

That was my attitude and reason. That is about like getting better mileage with the cup smoothie! However, any metal to metal contact is not good for anything. Maybe it would be harder on the hitch mounts than driveline. I don't think that it will hurt anything though, IMHO.

 

[Hummin Cummins]

DMI makes the one that we use to pull fertilizer spreaders around 10,000 lb max. They dont eliminate the slamming, banging and jerking, they seem to make it worse. Then the springs go bad, and it really slams. IMO solid is the best. Any movement I think would be compounded by them from inertia.

Chris

 

[GLASMITHS]

DANG IT!

The one I ordered has a block of rubber with a metal insert for the pin. No sp;rings. However, I will post any comments good or bad. Plus, this appears for only a small trailer. It says 10k; however, I would never pull that with this DC hitch. My trailer weighs 2500# max.

 

[JPope]

Thanks for the replys so far. I agree about the noise problem. I had a previous truck that the hitch pin hole enlarged slightly over time (years) which created clanking when starting or stopping, and the horses moving around. This rig had a solid bar load equalinzing set up, so so not know if this contibuted to the hole enlargement versus a tube type bar (lighter verus heavier, more bearing surface??). Hence the question about the cushioned bars. A while back I bought a cushioned pin (covered with nylon?) from Northern for about $10. so far it has worked well (quiet with no noticable wear) but will have to see how it works for the long haul.

The driveline wear was the major thought, as I could not see how it could be different versus gooseneck or fifth wheel type hitch, though the wear and additional slop from enlarged holes, could be a problem over time, but learn new things every day, especially from the varied experiences on this site. Oo.

 

[Dbonzi]

I have a couple of recievers for my hitch and by far I would use the one with the rubber in it that the pin goes through.

I pull a small bobcat trailer and without the spring action on the freeway here in Minnesota with the darn concrete roads it will about make you pull over to give your guts a break. When I use the one (reese)with the rubber in it, it is much better.

Just my opinion but it is worth the extra money.

Dennis

 

[GLASMITHS]

Class V Cushioned Ball mounts

Well I finally got mine and made a trip that would test it.



Now keep in mind that this is a utility trailer. Having said that, I do believe that it would be helpful for any size PULL TRAILER.



All I can say is that it eliminates all the jerking, clanging noise.

You really don't know that it is behind you in that aspect. I had 25 sheets of oak plywood in the trailer. Usually this is pretty rough trip from Lake Charles to Beaumont and return.



The hitch is really worth the money. The more it is used the more return. I needed one, so the payback is already there. This is rubber with a metal insert.

 

[Oxjockey]

I towed a small Uhaul trailer not too long ago that was like yours. Surge brakes, but I noticed that when we put a washer & dryer in there, all the way at the front, it quieted down. End result: Needs more tongue weight. Throw a couple sand bags on the front and yank it around and see if it helps.



Bryan

 

[GLASMITHS]

Brayn

I think the problem is caused from the hole in the receiver, the holes in the ball mount and the fact that the trailer hitch cannot, out of necessity be overly tight; and as a result there is quite a bit of play. This set-up takes the shock out of the hitch to receiver. I also like a heavy tounge weight.



I have never personally heard of a hitch arm cracking or breaking, though this could take some shock off the hitch arms. It's that that clanging and jolting that gets on my nerves. I do not have brakes on the trailer. In LA it is only required on 3000#>.