Custom 5" parts list

[NPloysa]

Pardon the ignorance, and I did try to search, but no luck, so I am going to ask again. I searched but the search feature does not like 3 letters or less in search terms.



Question: For those of you who made custom 5" exhaust, how many 90*, 45*, clamps, etc, did you use? I will buy a 4" downpipe, then a 4-5" adapter, then 5 from then on out.



Thanks!



Nick

 

[Green Machine]

Depends on where your going with it. Stacks? infront of the rear wheel . Over the axal?

I did the 4" down pipe (Rip Rook) and then priced out every part to go over the axle from there. Rip had the full kit for cheeper than I could pice it for. And it sounds great straight piped or with a 51 inch donaldson muffler. Look him up it well worth it.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

you shouldn't need any 90's, unless you want to cut bends out of them...



I wouldn't build your own system unless you've got a welder or it'll resonate like crazy.



Forrest

 

[Cummins4Life]

On my 01 we made a tail pipe out of (in order from front to back) 45*, 90*, 45* all short radius to go over the axle then a long radius 45 to exit out behind the rear tire.

 

[NPloysa]

I do have a welder, and yes, I will price the parts to see if it is cheaper or not. Hey, I could even slap on a 6" pipe after the axle!



Yes, it is for a downpipe to exit-behind-wheel setup. One reason I want it custom is because my air ride I am building has the airbag and mount right where my existing (stock) over-axle hump in the piping goes. I could do stacks, BUT, unless I do stacks at the same height as the cab, I won't be able to get it in the garage at this apartment. I may even have to lower the airbag pressure to get it in :-laf



Also, I guess after the long straight piece of pipe I could plug in a piece of flex pipe until I get my air ride done, then I will know exactly where the pipe will need to bend.



Thanks guys.



Nick

 

[JFinke]

I could do stacks, BUT, unless I do stacks at the same height as the cab, I won't be able to get it in the garage at this apartment. I may even have to lower the airbag pressure to get it in :-laf

If you have to lower it everytime keep it outside. You'll cone home in a hurry, tired, ******(i guess i have to put urinated ) or after a few brews and forget. There goes the cab. Been down that road. Not only the top of the cab but tore the carport down and took out the hood. Jake

 

[98rammer]

fwiw, i built my own 5" exhaust. i still use the stock downpipe, but have 3-4 and 4-5 reducers to 5" pipe to a short resonator to the tailpipe. i drove up and bought the parts at Berubes. they came out to about $230. though it sounds great outside, it's too quiet inside... doesn't sound deep like a straight pipe.



hopefully i'll be getting a turndown tip and another 5 or 6 feet of pipe (and cutting back the stock downpipe until i get a 4" dp) next weekend and going straight piped. by the time i'm done, it would have been about the same amount of money for a rip rook or some other 5" exhaust (instead of shipping, there's driving/fuel and welding time).



Tom

 

[98rammer]

oh, btw, for the tailpipe i used three 45* elbows and one 90* elbow. two 45's were of average length, and one was short. i will be shortening the tailpipe so that the tip is closer to the mudflap, and not almost underneath the bumper.



it may just be easier to buy an aftermarket one.

 

[cumminstogetya]

I work at NAPA in Thornville, Ohio (home of Enterprise) and we sell a ton of pipe for Dodges and Fords. Enterprise sends most of their trucks to our store when they want to do exhaust. I have done several different exhausts on my truck, including a 5" system. Just about all the guys that we sell exhaust to take a 4-5" reducer, (10) feet of 5" pipe, (1) 45* elbow, and (1) 5" stack. I had no problems clearing the rear axle. They cut the pipe right over top of the axle and put on the elbow with the stack at the end. This setup looks clean and sounds awesome. We probably sell about 8-10 setups like this per week. As long as you clamp tightly (if you don't weld) there are no leaks. All the parts can be ordered through NAPA.



John

 

[NPloysa]

Thanks guys, appreciate the help. I will keep this info in mind. I may call NAPA and Kenworth and Interstate Turbo for some prices.

 

[JBlackwell]

I just called the Peterbilt dealer near me.

I ordered the 4" to 5" reducer for my 4" downpipe, a 4" Stainless Steel band clamp, stick of 5" Aluminized piping, stick of 5" SS Flexhose, and few 5" SS band clamps. Ran me about $200.





JD

 

[NPloysa]

JD, not a bad price! How many feet of the 5" pipe did you get? Is the flex for over your axle or are you doing stacks?



Nick

 

[JBlackwell]

The flex was for going over the rear end. I set it up to exit out the rear like stock. I bought a 3' piece at first, but traded it back for a 6' length cause the flex doesn't make really sharp bends. The 5" stick from the downpipe to the front of the rear end is around 6' I think on a reg. cab, you will need to measure. I am starting the flex about 3 or 4' feet in front of the rear end cause it doesn't make tight bends... . but I didn't want it to have tight bends anyways.



But I imagine a 6' stick of both will work.



Make sure the flex is Stainless Steel..... they rust fast on the aluminized. Get the SS band clamps too. Its well worth it.



JD

 

[Forrest Nearing]

FWIW, flex pipe is designed to be run straight...



your mileage may vary.



Forrest

 

[justinp20012500]

I used a 10' straight, two 68 degree elbows for the down pipe off the HT3B. Two 45 degree bends and one ninety.

My truck is a SB and the system goes over the axle.

If I can find some pics I will post them.