Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cutting the Pump Wire

[jrandol]

Has anyone fiquired out a way for a really well concealed method of tapping into the pump wire so that the dealer cant fiquire it out?



TST has this Powermax grabber which looks like it might work, any solutions to this?



Trying to decide whether to go ahead and buy a box that can tap the pump or go with just an Edge EZ.



Please Help!!

 

[Whitmore]

I say that if you want to play than you need to be willing to pay, in other words if you tap the pump wire than you void the warrenty, I tapped mine about a year ago and have since smoked a turbo and lost a L/P and I didnt even think of warrenty I simply ordered more parts. If your warrenty means that much to you than maybe you should wait till it has expired.





cheers, Kevin

 

[wcaldwell]

Jrandol,



In response to your question: "Has anyone fiquired out a way for a really well concealed method of tapping into the pump wire so that the dealer cant fiquire it out?"



One: Isn't that considered fraud?

Two: Are you married and have kids? If so, what are you teaching them?

Three: Where is your honor, integrity, and honesty?



Just curious.

 

[duaneparks]

Uh, yeah, actually there is a way to keep the damage from being noticed. No one has mentioned it yet... DON'T PIERCE THE WIRE. The Comp can be operated without the pump wire attached. It will function just like an EZ. When you're ready for more power, either add injectors or attach the wire, or both, but be ready to say goodbye to the warranty and your stock transmission not too much later.



In the event of a VP44 failure, any type of compromise in the pump wire will void your warranty. The dealerships know to look for that first by now. No if's, and's, or but's.



If I were in your position with regards to worry about the warranty, I would get the Comp but not hook up the wire.



It's simpler, no headaches, and it won't overpower your transmission to the point of needing an upgrade nearly as quickly. The Comp, when set to levels 3-5, exceed the pump's electronic limits and the auto transmission's as well. Not a good combination on an otherwise stock truck.





HTH.



Duane

 

[jrandol]

Thanks for the tip duaneparks, I was a little unsure about the comp without the pump not hooked up and it working properly. I am kinda leaning towards the Powermax 3 adj. and leave the wire untapped until I can do some transmission mods. Will that do the same as the comp without the pump wire tapped?



Looks like I caused a bit of stir by asking this question. I just really wanted the information as I know there are a lot of folks on here wanting the same info. I had a really supped up F150 (be nice now everyone) before this and all the Ford Dealerships I took it to were a-ok with my mods even the apparent whirl of the supercharger! New transmission, no problem! Guess bombing these is a little different when it comes to warranty. Dont get me wrong, I LOVE my CTD, and the truck is good to you couldnt get me back into a gasser much less a Ford.

I always wondered why someone felt the need to make personal attacks based on what little information might be known about a person. Guess we all want to make an impact somehow or another. I'll continue to take my advice from the big CTD owner up above and "thou shall not judge"

All in good fun on this site and all for learning and comraderie, thats what I like and why I joined. Thanks Whitmore and Duane for your posts. Time to pay to play for me!!

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

The powermax will do nothing for you at all if you don't hook up the pump wire - that is it's only fueling hook up. The PE Comp box hooks up at both the pump wire and on the CAN Bus (you can leave the pump wire off and still have the CAN Bus connection). So if you don't want to hook up the pump wire save your money on the powermax box. As far as I know the PE Comp box is the only box out there that hooks up both ways. BTW - my pump wire is soldered on and I am using a Powermax3.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I read the lead post in this thread right after it hit the board - and bit my lip, and passed it by - because I've too often taken heat and personal abuse because of my "morality stands"...



Thank God there are still a few out there with integrity and honor, and not afraid to stand up for what they know is right - ya done GOOD guys!



Guess I shouldn't have been so timid myself...

 

[RO'neal]

I started off with the EZ because I got a good deal on it and I was still new to the scene. I know I'm not the first one on this site to say this but I WISH I WOULD'VE LISTENED to everyone who advised going with the Comp to begin with. I now have the Comp WITH the pump wire connected and absolutely love it! IMO if you're going to do it... DO IT. Don't worry about the warranty because it will only keep you from doing what YOU want to do with YOUR truck. Again, just my opinion...

 

[JR2]

Repeat after me... . I am my own warranty station..... again and again... Then pierce the wire and be happy... . I know I am.

 

[Rman]

touchy subject around here on that one. You have to take that warranty stuff with a grain of salt and realize that its worthless. If your not willing ot fix something that you broke, then don't break it! If Daimler wanted you to be pushing out 400 horses out of that engine then they would change the fuel mapping for you. They don't, if they catch you doing it they won't pay... end of story.



This is the same thing as not paying taxes, and whining because the roads aren't maintained and the city services stink. I make a lot of money, I pay a lot of money. One thing i do is try and take advantage of what my taxes go for. I use county facilities, i use public libraries, i use parks and recreation. Take advantage of what your paying for! Oh yeah and hook up that pump wire and don't turn back

 

[jrandol]

You guys are such a bad influence on me!! Just kidding! Yep, I think your all right go big or go home. With the pump wire, do these have problems getting wet and road stuff corroding out the connection? Im not a huge fan of scotchloks, any other solutions?

 

[JBlock]

Using a Comp as an EZ with Sub-levels

You can set up a comp as EZ and adjustiblity too.



Comp without the PUmp wire



1x1 or 1x2 give fueking not to exceed sttock



Go to 1 x3-5 on a Comp and in will exceed the stock fuel cruve.



set the comp to 2x5 and you get 1 x5 without the wire.



then going between level 1 and 2 give you two different level of performance which can feel in the seat of the pants.



first 1x2 and second 1x5 and there a huge differece when the power comes at 3 psi boost verse timing only at 15 or 20 psi.



These you cans save the transmission on level 1 and using level 2 (1x5) if want more sometimes and want to occassionally take some transmission risk, you will feel the difference.





i can not even imagine what the power with the pump wire taped is like .



I do have 275 injectors so I got a little multiplier there but not much.



Maybe someday after the transmission upgrade i can think about tapping the pump wire

 

[Briar Hopper]

Originally posted by jrandol

With the pump wire, do these have problems getting wet and road stuff corroding out the connection? Im not a huge fan of scotchloks, any other solutions?

The scotchloks are not so great, everyone agrees on that. The "Grabber" from TST is a very nice solution to hooking to the pump wire, it has a tiny needle that pierces the underside of the pump wire. There are a few tricks to installing it properly, though, such as routing the stem of it UNDER the air intake horn in such a way that it won't rub against anything metal. No big deal, just a little care in installing it. The push lead connection at the top of the grabber has to be soldered to a length of wire(which connects to your box wire), then a little black electrical tape to ensure it doesn't pull free from the grabber.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Soldering the connection like I have is one option and the one least likely to give you problems. Blue chip also makes a cover for the VP44 that uses a pin inside the VP44 to make the connection as another option.

 

[jrandol]

Briar Hopper and Steven, do you have any pics of that I could look at?

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

This post has pictures of the blue chip pump cover - https://www.turbodieselregister.com...threadid=30389&highlight=blue+chip+pump+cover . I don't have any pictures of how mine is hooked up but it's easy to picture. You cut and pull back the insulation on the pump wire, put some flux on the wire, look the wire your hooking to it around it put some flux on it and solder the sucker. Then I used liquid sealer to seal the connection.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

The pump wire on my truck was EXTREMELY short and difficult to work with - I doubt I could get a Scotchlock on it even if I wanted to... I used a small awl - like an icepick - to carefully pierce the wire thru the middle, including the wire inside, them carefully threaded the solder-tinned wire for the Comp thru that opening - it was tight, and then after wrapping the excess tinned wire around the pump wire to mechanically secure it, I managed to get a few wrap of electrical tape around the connect - not easy either - then took a nylon cable tie and wrapped that around too, and pulled it as tight as I could to place as much pressure on the contact point as possible - so far, so good...



If problems crop up later, I'll have to do as Steve has, and try to solder the connection - but I dread the thought, as hard as it is to get to...

 

[jrandol]

Gary-KJ6Q



In looking at your horsepower #'s what level did you have your Comp box at for those dyno numbers?

 

[duaneparks]

Originally posted by jrandol

Thanks for the tip duaneparks, I was a little unsure about the comp without the pump not hooked up and it working properly. I am kinda leaning towards the Powermax 3 adj. and leave the wire untapped until I can do some transmission mods. Will that do the same as the comp without the pump wire tapped?



Looks like I caused a bit of stir by asking this question. I just really wanted the information as I know there are a lot of folks on here wanting the same info.

You're welcome. I had a question similar to yours when I first got on here about whether to get an Edge or a Comp. I was talked into the Comp by a couple of folks and I haven't regretted it yet. That was in Dec '01 or so. Originally I didn't want to tap the pump wire for fear of transmission damage and/or VP44 damage, but one day I took a deep breath, decided I was my own warranty station, and hooked that sucker up. Now I need a clutch... LOL.



Speaking of which, if you go much crazier than level 1 or 2 (ie. , hook up the pump wire) you will need to consider upgrading your auto transmission in short order. There's more info on here about that if you search for transmission upgrades... I won't even go there. Just suffice it to say there are some great products out there for when you're ready/needing to upgrade.



Looks like you've gotten the rest of your questions answered. Good luck, and most of all, have fun and learn as much as you can.



Duane

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"In looking at your horsepower #'s what level did you have your Comp box at for those dyno numbers?"



Full bore - 5x5 on a Mustang dyno, about 4000 miles on the truck - not the highest power readings for a setup like this, but my EGT stays at 1200 or less regardless of load/grade and I still have my stock clutch - I'm too cheap/chicken to go the next step with injectors (so far!), because I know I'll have to upgrade the clutch and exhaust system if I do - and I can already top the Sierras at 90 mph towing our 5er - so no real need...