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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) D-Celerator exhaust brake?

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D-Celerator Diesel Exhaust Brake

I just learned about this brake. Is anyone using one? I would really appreciate some first hand experience with one. I want to add a brake to my '98 12 valve with auto transmission. I am familiar with the need to add 60#valve springs.

Thanks, JH
 
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I've had one on my '97 for about 8 years. I put 60# springs in cause it was recommended. Are you looking at the electric operated or the air operated? I have the electric model and I would not recommend it. Since day one, it has never really worked. The housing is machined wrong so the butterfly does not close all the way and allows air to leak past. I've been told the air operated unit works better. I do not have experience with it tho.
 
I've had one on my '97 for about 8 years. I put 60# springs in cause it was recommended. Are you looking at the electric operated or the air operated? I have the electric model and I would not recommend it. Since day one, it has never really worked. The housing is machined wrong so the butterfly does not close all the way and allows air to leak past. I've been told the air operated unit works better. I do not have experience with it tho.

Thanks for the comments. It's hard to tell if you are not recommending the product at all or just not recommending the electric unit.

Have you considered removing the unit and trying to smooth out the inside of the bore to make the butterfly close better?
 
Installed the D-Celerator in 2003. It has been steady, reliable and very effective. Issues have always been resolved quickly with US Gear tech support: new control module needed soon after intial install, diode had to be soldered in, and just recently an upgrade to a heavy duty relay was needed plus a new control module, which required some rewiring. . very entertaining. The brake (electric operation) is very positive, comes on with a reassuring "clunk", but would agree that the air version might be easier to work with.
 
Installed the D-Celerator in 2003. It has been steady, reliable and very effective. Issues have always been resolved quickly with US Gear tech support: new control module needed soon after intial install, diode had to be soldered in, and just recently an upgrade to a heavy duty relay was needed plus a new control module, which required some rewiring. . very entertaining. The brake (electric operation) is very positive, comes on with a reassuring "clunk", but would agree that the air version might be easier to work with.



Thanks. I wonder why so many fixes? It's nice that they take care of them, but it would even be better if they didn't come up. :confused::confused:

So, in your opinion, and based on your familiarity with the unit, would the air operated one not have all the parts that you have experienced failure with?

Thanks for your help.

JH:cool:
 
Call some of the install shops that are listed on the US Gear website and ask them about the D celerator. That's what I did and what I heard was not good.
 
Thanks for the comments. It's hard to tell if you are not recommending the product at all or just not recommending the electric unit.

Have you considered removing the unit and trying to smooth out the inside of the bore to make the butterfly close better?



I would never buy an electric operated unit again. I was told by more than one install shop that every electric unit they installed, the customers all complained about the same issues I have.



I thought about shaving the inner lip a little to try and get it to seat properly, but I was told by a diesel shop owner who has done quite a few of these that there's a fine fine fine line between not taking off enough and taking off too much. He said if you take off just a bit too much, the valve will not open when disengaged. This being said, I just haven't found the time in the past 8 years to try.



I was also told that this problem did not exist with the air operated units. If I was to ever buy another brake, it would be air operated.
 
I would never buy an electric operated unit again. I was told by more than one install shop that every electric unit they installed, the customers all complained about the same issues I have.



I thought about shaving the inner lip a little to try and get it to seat properly, but I was told by a diesel shop owner who has done quite a few of these that there's a fine fine fine line between not taking off enough and taking off too much. He said if you take off just a bit too much, the valve will not open when disengaged. This being said, I just haven't found the time in the past 8 years to try.



I was also told that this problem did not exist with the air operated units. If I was to ever buy another brake, it would be air operated.



Thanks for the input. I am starting to lean back toward the Pac Brake.

JH
 
I bought a used one from a 24 valve truck that had a wire burned through and had quit working. I repaired the wire and ordered a new switch, the guy who removed it trashed the old one, and installed it. It worked perfectly. I gave US Gear a call and gave them the serial number and was advised that it was for a 24 valve and not to use it on a 12 valve unless I had the upgraded valve springs, which I already did. It DEFINITELY works better than the BD brake that I removed to install the D-celerator and I think it works better than the Pacbrake on my '93. I had to move to the inline brake with my turbo upgrade, a turbo mount brake was no longer an option. When I get my on board air system up and running I will probably switch to the Pacbrake inline air operated though.
 
i have been running one since 98 on a 12 valve 98 it is electric 30 lb unit it has never given any problem but the braking ability is not good, change the springs and go with the bd or pac. i have a tearable dislike for the auto transmission but others on here will help you with any lock up questions
 
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