Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) D70 front?

[rebar]

I just picked up a 1997 12v 4x4 nv4500 with D70 front and D80 rear parts truck. Being a owner of a intercooled 1st gen in a E350 van, I know very little about the 97 and I apologize before hand if this is the wrong place to ask questions about it. But the 97's stuck 20 miles away in a snow storm corn field at the moment and I'm jonesing to know more.

After a recommendation to get rid of the 97's D70 front, vs a ford 86-91 D60 king pin front I haven't found for my E350 4x4 conversion, I did a little searching but it looks like the D70 isn't as common as the 60/70 combo?.

I know the D70 front only has bigger gears, not the axles, so its not so desirable.. But can anyone tell me why it's inferior to a D60 kingpin other than ground clearance? Is it ball joint, open closed ? Is it the suspension that gives it a bad rap? Because I plan on leaf springs anyway..

Thanks!

 

[BigPapa]

Who told you it was a Dana 70? I've never heard of anything being offered for the front but the Dana 60.

 

[rebar]

Who told you it was a Dana 70? I've never heard of anything being offered for the front but the Dana 60.

The owner..

I haven't verified the front yet. But the rear was the D80 like he said it was. But now see that was stock with manual.. So the front is a D60 like you said..Must be..

My bad..

 

[JR]

The Dodge is definitely a Dana 60 front. I am not real sure what the advantages of swapping a coil sprung Dana 60 for a leaf sprung Dana 60 with kingpins, especially given the massive amount of fabrication required to make it happen. Then there's the whole matter of getting it to track straight. Sounds like it could be a real nightmare with little to no benefits if you ask me.

One thing I do like about the Dana 60s the Fords use is manual locking hubs. The Ford and Dodge parts are interchangeable from the ball joints out (early 90s Ford axles). This will give you manual locking hubs and dual piston calipers. Big improvement over Dodges weak unitized bearings and under powered single piston calipers.

What is wrong with the Dodge right now?

 

[rebar]

What's wrong? Rust, bad turbo, and hole in the t-case.. It's a parts truck I need the nv4500 4x4 Trans for my E350 4x4 conversion. The D80 rear might also be swapped in and I wondered about the front axle for the conversion but it's a boat anchor.

 

[JR]

Now I gotcha.

While your at it I would swap that P pumped 12 valve in there as well

 

[rebar]

Now I gotcha.

While your at it I would swap that P pumped 12 valve in there as well

The Econoline engine tunnel isn't wide enough for the P-pump unfortunately.. Unless I can find a exhaust manifold which pulls the turbo closer and move the engine back to passenger side..

#ad


#ad

 

[Texis]

The Ford and Dodge parts are interchangeable from the ball joints out (early 90s Ford axles).

"Almost" interchangeable. The Ford spindles have a different bolt pattern than the 97 2500 Dodge knuckles. Also, the outter (stub) axle shaft is slightly different in length. I went through every part combination investigation possible before I bought my DLUX hubs, which use modified early Ford spindles (re-drilled pattern) and cut down Chevy stub axles. I added the 1.5" 31 spline Moser axles at the same time.. best mod I have made on my truck. But you will let go of $2K before your done, if you do the work yourself.

Keep the coils.

 

[JR]

This gal seems to have figured out a working combo with a minimal amount of fabrication.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/dodg...ison-ford-knuckles.html?nocache=1442914823869

 

[Texis]

Nice tech info. She is using the Ford knuckles, vs the OEM knuckles. So, yes you are correct it appears "from the ball joints out" will bolt together. I wonder if she ran into any problems such as brake line thread ends, tie rod end sizes, steering arm length off the knuckles, etc. Also wonder if she ended up with mix-matched lug nut thread sizes? But I believe you could find a stud that would match the threads in just about any length configuration. If you had to buy all the parts separately you wouldn't save any money. If you found a near complete donor axle that was useable you could come out ahead.

Thanks, I'll file that one.

 

[JR]

I think the lug sizes are the same based on her input. I have no first hand experience so all I can go by the info in that thread. I kept an eye out for a good buy on a Ford 60 but they arent that easy to come by around here, at least not at a price I was comfortable with. Last year I ended up having to replace the OEM hubs in my truck and replaced rotors as well while I had everything apart so at this point I doubt I'll ever go through with it. I'd love to have manual hubs but for the price of the typical conversion I can buy alot of diesel fuel.

 

[Texis]

JR,

I really didn't gain any noticeable fuel mileage, 1/2 -1 mpg... maybe. But the driving quality went up on my truck. Less vibration, smoother turning etc. Made the biggest difference at 70-80 mph. My decision was a wear and tear issue. I got tried of replacing hubs, the CAD not working when I needed it. BUT the main reason is I plan on keeping the truck and "I wanted it the way I wanted it". I wouldn't suggest anyone do this for fuel economy, they would be terribly disappointed.

With that said, there have been a few times I didn't like getting out of the truck in a cold rain and sloping around in the mud to engage 4WD!

 

[JMcCoy]

She did do an excellent right up. This is mine I did a few years ago. FYI, there are a set of 91-94 knuckles on ebay right now for $500. About the current going rate. Spindles and hubs are easy to find. Let me know if you need the link.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/226856-Whoa-nellie!?highlight=Nellie