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Damp flooor boards after rain, wheres it come from?

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Speedometer Sensor to Transfer case adapter

Speedo not working 1993 D350

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My truck usually is in the garage but has been outside at the shop the last 2 weeks getting a lot of work done. After the last good rain we had I noticed my drivers floor board was damp and the passenger one just a little when I went up to drop off some parts. I immediately pulled back the carpet and removed the jute the best I could at the shop.
I plan on replacing the belt moldings I think they are called (the ones at the base of the window) and maybe the inner door seal moldings depending on what they look like when I get the truck back next week and check them over real good.
Are any of these 2 known culprits of that? Is their anywhere else I need to check? Rusted rotted floor boards are not what I want
 
Were the water is coming from is the cowling .
Because it cracked and typically the drivers side cracks more than the passenger side. Its a design flaw and there has been discussion on the reason they break because of tire balance etc.. However it is still a design flaw . The metal gets paper thin in areas during the manufacturing process , the fix is pull the fenders off and either weld or soder it back up or it suppose you could fiber glass patch bit up and still could be a good idea . On my crew cab im building , i welded it up hoping it holds , its not easy because its super thin , i them applied several coats of flex seal and i may add some flex seal tape before the front end goes back on .
 
My fix with original or after market "rubber floor covering," must monitor any exposure to water. Remove door thresholds-will not be reinstalled. Fold rubber mat to center hump, one side at a time, make sure all padding is dry. Put in clothes dryer/monitor or replace. Fold a good size bath towel twice to create rectangle. Place short folded end under kick-board, lay across toward hump, 1/2 on flat, 1/2 on sloped floorboard. Place a large-flat plastic regular floor-mat across covering towel, (towel is under wire loom on LHS). Padding replaced over floor-mat, rubber flooring on top tucked under kick-boards. When rig exposed to water, replace damp towels. Hope this makes sense. Done this 15-years, because I haven't welded "cowl-cracks." If metal floor has any rust, sand/paint.
Patrick in Southern California, not much rain, but I keep her floors, moisture-free!
 
Were the water is coming from is the cowling .
Because it cracked and typically the drivers side cracks more than the passenger side. Its a design flaw and there has been discussion on the reason they break because of tire balance etc.. However it is still a design flaw . The metal gets paper thin in areas during the manufacturing process , the fix is pull the fenders off and either weld or soder it back up or it suppose you could fiber glass patch bit up and still could be a good idea . On my crew cab im building , i welded it up hoping it holds , its not easy because its super thin , i them applied several coats of flex seal and i may add some flex seal tape before the front end goes back on .







Okay, that's a good answer and gives me a place to look for issues but I'm not sure what you mean by cowl. As a pilot and aircraft mechanic "cowl" likely means something different to me than to someone more indoctrinated in automotive terminology!



Are you talking about the area under the valence/air inlet that goes over the firewall between the fenders and has the wiper shafts running through it?
 
Just below the corners of the windshield.

36904d1312326749-cowl-crack-pictures-100_0111.jpg


Now, that said, my '92 has the front roof corners rusted out and it leaks profusely.

36904d1312326749-cowl-crack-pictures-100_0111.jpg
 
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