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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Damper replacement??

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) low power

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here is a topic i would like to see mulled over :D



while waiting for some parts at Cummins the other day I read an article in an old trade rag written by Bruce? Mallinson CEO of Diesel Injection in PA. in it he pointed out a good observation and practice they now use. basically he said when you uprate an engine you change the harmonics of the engine as well as the RPM ranges of them. he strongly recommended replacing the balancer with a bigger one in accordance to the new uprated level of HP. he also said it was just good practice to replace it at around 380,000 anyway. this in a engine rated for 500K rebuild intervals. the object of this was to spare the crank from spiking and twisting.



now, we have been playing this game for years now and i have never seen this practice in the B series hi-po guys. did i just miss the boat or are we all running for it right now? :D



has anyone changed out thier balancer to a bigger one? maybe I'll try this and let you guys know how it smooths out :D



Todd
 
I think I read that the OEM balancer is good for up to 2700 RPM's.



If I am not mistaken, HEMI-Dart has some information on this topic.



-Ryan
 
i don't know why u would need a bigger one. it should be balanced though. these motors are internally balanced i believe. when spinning really high rpm's it should be good practice to balance everything and lessen the tollerance of error. , Reb
 
Hey guys, while on this topic, I have a ? for ya.



I was one of the lucky ones that had the kdp come completely out. Anyways to get the front cover was off I had to pull the balancer. When installing, do you think the damper needs to be put on exactly the way it came off?



Reason for asking is I've been chasing a vibration in the motor for over 15,000miles. If you can't put it on in the wrong position, maybe I damaged it somehow?





Thanks
 
I upgraded my injector pump with a fuel plate; increased the horsepower. I have the 94, 160 HP; now about 195 HP. I bought a larger dampner from Cummins; forgot which part number; cost about $95. 00. It's an easy job. I used a chain grip from Channel Lock to hold the dampner and removed the four bolts that attach the dampner to the crankshaft nose. I thought it would be a good idea to add a larger dampner to a higher horsepower engine. If you need torque specs, I can email.
 
Do a search on Vibration Damper. About 2 years ago they gave the size and parts number for the 215 engine. At that time it was said that only the 160 engine needed the larger damper.
 
I believe only the 160 HP truck has the small damper. Possibly the 180 HP auto may? I was all set to upgrade my 175 HP balancer to the 215 HP. The 215 was the same size as my OEM one.



If anyone wants to check theirs the big balancer or 215 HP damper measures about 9½" across. (OD)



Boldt's Wagon,



I didn't find it clear in that TDR article that only the 160 HP Auto truck had the small balancer.



I sent out 10 emails and searched the web till I was blue-in-the-face looking for a nice aftermarket HP Viscous damper (Fluid Damper, Rattler, ect. ) Nothing.



I think I spoke to Bruce Mallinson and asked what he could find. He said He was going to try some Dampers off the Diamond B 370HP marine engine and some others. He got back to me a week later and said he couldn't get any to clear the radiator and other things on the Ram application.



See Drees1 explaination on how to check a balancer:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...=&threadid=55181&highlight=Vibration+Balancer



Some of us could use a better damper. Especially when the engine is making 100% more HP than the factory rating. With 40 Lbs of boost and a big injector lighting a cylinder I'll bet the shock to the crank is about 100% stronger too.
 
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Yes, the 180 Hp trucks have the bigger balancer. I was wondering about mine too, but turns out it was OK, and was the bigger one to start with. I was/am having a vibration problem too, and it shows up as a ringing sound from the oil pan. I thought it might be the suction tube rattling against the pan, so I dropped the pan. The tube was fine, solid as a rock, and was not touching any place. Still can't figure out where it comes from, if I lay on my back with it idling, and press a folded shop towel up against the forward part of the pan, it goes away or is muted. Any ideas? It's beeen bugging me for about 15k miles too.
 
Dennis, let us know if you get yours fixed. My 97 seems to have the same problems as yours w/ the vibration and a hollow bell sound that comes and goes.



Thanks





GOODE11
 
Well, turns out I had the big balancer anyway, and it was fine. I took the pan off last week, hoping to find the suction tube rattling someplace, but it was rock solid, and nothing was touching the pan. I posted about taking the pan off, & how I did it, and what I found (nothing). Anyway, someone thought it was just natural harmonics of the engine making the pan ring, and I think he might have something there. I think now, instead of finding a cause, I might concentrate on a fix. Sounds like it might consist of glueing lead plates to the flat areas of the pan, or something similar.
 
sorry guys, i put this post out there and ran off for a week on vacation.



Hemi, you took things were i wanted to with this. after reading the article from Bruce, i was quite convinced we (400+ HP guys)need bigger balancers.



I'll have to get a 370 balancer and see what gives. after i read the thread you posted the link to :D
 
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