2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Dana 60 front axle

[billjackson]

Back in April I replaced both front axle u-joints, upper & lower ball studs, rotors and pads. I was extremely careful not to damage the front axle seals while removing and installing the axle shafts. Still, I ended up with a slow, steady leak from the driver's side axle seal. I'm trying to find special tool W-129-B for spreading the axle housing and plan to do the job myself. This will be the first time I've removed an axle differential case so, if anyone out there has done this and can shed some light on the subject it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Bill

 

[Beast2B]

Hey Bill, There is a member by the name of diffdude that works in a gear shop. I haven't seen him on here in a while, but maybe a pm or email might get you contact.

 

[drrhoades]

The tool you are looking for is called a case spreader. You might try calling around to local parts stores to see if they rent them. When you do it make sure not to spread the case more then 0. 015". I doubt you will be able to but just in case. You only need to spread it enough so that it comes out easily with pry bars, you dont want it to call out on its own. Make sure you torque the bearing caps to the proper spec. when you put it all back together. I believe that the spec calls for 80 ft lbs.



Doug

 

[billjackson]

Thanks drhoades. The local parts places I've contacted about the differential housing spreader are clueless. SPX Miller tools has the unit for $199. 13, but it's not in stock and won't be available until sometime after June 30. It's unbelievable to me that in my area (southern California) this stuff is so difficult to find. Contacted the Local Dealership and their cost to do this job is nearly $700. Who knows where that would end. I will continue to search and do what I must. Hopefully, some of our will have some more input.



Thanks again for your response! Bill

 

[CumminsPower98]

The job can be done without the spreader. I have rebuilt more differentials then I care to remember and though it would be real nice to have the tool I have always managed without one. Just use some good pry bars to get the carrier out. When going back in just place the bearing cups at a slight angle as you start the carrier into place. I use a large copper hammer to tap the unit back into place. Once it gets close you can reinstall the caps and suck it the rest of the way in. I did this axle seal job on my truck a while back and used the same method I have on all others.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Great info here too: http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Front Axle Tech/Front Axle Tech.htm

 

[Russknh]

I live in the San Diego area, I can either refer you to a guy in the southern La area that will do this for you or a gear shop in the SD area that can do it or I can tell you I have done over 15 Dana's with no case spreader and have had no problems a little prying would not fix--later Russ

 

[csutton7]

CPower98 is right--it can be done without the case spreader tool--chris

 

[Extreme1]

Ditto on the spreaderless method.

 

[billjackson]

Thanks for the input guys! Think I will attempt the job without the spreader tool. Sometime next week if the schedule permitts.

Thanks, Bill

 

[PullinRam]

Bill,

As said above you can do it easily without the spreader. Just get a small prybar and pry underneath and above the carrier gently a few times and it should drop right into your hands. Just make sure your ready for that heavy SOB. As far as the seal goes, when you pull your axles check the seal surface on the shaft and make sure it's not warn or scuffed bad. That is my problem right now. I keep trashing seals because the surface on the shaft is pretty bad. Good luck.

 

[billjackson]

dana 60 Axle

Got the differential case out without the spreader tool but it was very tight! Surprised to find NO SHIMS. Will try to complete the job today. Hopefully, it will go in easier than it came out.

Bill

 

[drrhoades]

The shims are between the bearings and the diff. Inboard Shims. When you put the diff back in becareful not to nick the bearing cups with the rollers, this is where the case spreader makes life easier. It can be done either way but it is easier with the spreader and there is less chance of messin the bearings up.

I have done it both ways and my best advice would be to go easy until you get the bearings straight then hit it real good with the largest dead blow you can find until it wont go any farther. Then put the bearing caps back on.

 

[billjackson]

It's been an insanely busy week but I finished the axle seal project and wanted to thank all the members that took time to respond to my questions and lend their support.



Overall, the project really was not that difficult, with one exception. The original problem was the driver's side seal, but with everything apart it seemed wise to replace the passenger's side too. So, I purchased both seals from the local Dodge Dealer and thought I was prepared. I've installed seals before, although not in this backwards fashion, so I was doing everything with extra care, not to damage the seals. The driver's side was first and was a bit difficult to get started straight (as if a bit too large) but finally went in and was not a problem. Now to the passenger's side where there is much less space to work with. Using the same methods, 5/8" threaded rod, 1 3/4" socket (as a guide) and some weight at the outside end (slide hammer fashion), I made MULTIPLE attempts to get the seal to start straight, without success. So, I tried using a large flat washer (identical in size to the seal) and tightening the threaded rod to suck the seal into place. WITHOUT SUCCESS! Next, oh did I mention, I'm on the third seal. I sanded the orange finish from the outside edge of the seal because it really was larger in diameter than the original. Again, I tried without success. So, as an experiment, I tried to install the original seal, and with care and a little effort it went right in. Jump to tomorrow and seal number four. After carefully removing the original seal and all of the orange finish from seal number four, I cut a piece of 3/4" emt long enough to go from the driver's side of the axle, through the differential housing to the CAD housing, where I could control it's placement against the flat washer and threaded rod that was holding the new seal in place with a slight pressure. Now, my helper had unimpeded access to hit this unit with more force, but after several attempts it was again unsuccessful and seal number four was destroyed! At this point it was time to install the original seal again and put the axle back together. That was uneventful and to this point (500 or so miles) there are no leaks.



I'm convinced that the new seals were stamped with tools so worn that tolerances are no longer in spec, so without some kind of magic, I don't see how the new seal could be installed. If anyone has had a similar experience or has anything to add to this I would love to hear from you.



My next plan is to check for other sources for the seal to see if there are other manufacturers, because at 172,000 miles the original seal is showing considerable wear and it's only a matter of time until it begins to leak.



Thanks again guys, Bill

 

[CumminsPower98]

I put National brand seals in mine. Yes the passenger side seal is a real pain and it took me some time to get mine in straight. I used a long piece of 3/4" all thread with a nut and washer on the end and pushed it all the way through from the drivers side. I then placed the socket on the end to drive the seal in with. The hard part was getting the socket to stay straight and not sag down a little, which would cause the lower part of the seal to drive in first. I ended up placing little things under it to help it stay straight and finally got the seal in correctly. I can't comment on the seals that come from the dealer as I've never tried any. I always try to use National brand whenever possible. I try not to buy too many seals from Napa because some of their Chicago Rawhide brand seals are junk. For example twice now I have looked at their cam seals for the Subaru EA82 engine and they are a really thin single lip cheap seal when compared to the NOK brand that comes on the car that is much thicker, double lip and is covered in rubber. Anyway sorry I got off on a seal rant here. Napa does have some good seals just not all.

 

[billjackson]

Originally posted by CumminsPower98

I put National brand seals in mine. Yes the passenger side seal is a real pain and it took me some time to get mine in straight. I used a long piece of 3/4" all thread with a nut and washer on the end and pushed it all the way through from the drivers side. I then placed the socket on the end to drive the seal in with. The hard part was getting the socket to stay straight and not sag down a little, which would cause the lower part of the seal to drive in first. I ended up placing little things under it to help it stay straight and finally got the seal in correctly. I can't comment on the seals that come from the dealer as I've never tried any. I always try to use National brand whenever possible. I try not to buy too many seals from Napa because some of their Chicago Rawhide brand seals are junk. For example twice now I have looked at their cam seals for the Subaru EA82 engine and they are a really thin single lip cheap seal when compared to the NOK brand that comes on the car that is much thicker, double lip and is covered in rubber. Anyway sorry I got off on a seal rant here. Napa does have some good seals just not all.

 

[billjackson]

Both the originals and the replacements were were Nok with the same part no. I'll have to check out the Nationals.

Thanks

 

[24Vpirate]

what year is your truck? what spline axles did you get 30 spline early type. seal #from national is 5131. if 32spline dealer only currentyly and they always have them in stock. its hard to install them, without f@*kem up make. sure you use silicone on the outside of the seal. depending on what seal i use a socket and short heavy hammer to in stall them. done 1000s that way with only a few leaking after that meathod.