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Archived DANGER-Brake Failure. . .Again!

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Archived front axle grinding!

Archived VP44 help

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Thanks RL989. Sounds like you have had more than your share of experience. I'm going to do this first line and see how it goes. The tubing I bought is supposedly the best stuff available, so I hope I won't have to do it again.



The complete stainless kit sounded good, but budget constraints and time are an issue at the moment. But thanks Seafish.



Mike, I just noticed you are in Lincoln Maine. AAA just picked the truck up. It should be at your house by about 8:30. :)



Very good info. I think I am going to purchase the tool, practice on a little excess line and go to it. I have already made the matching hydraulic line, so I just have to put the flares on tomorrow morning. I'm now about 35 hours without sleep, so I am going to call it a night. Otherwise i'll endup hooking my fuel lines to the brakes and brake lines to the fuel tank. ;)



Cheers,

I'll post my success when it happens.



Dennis
 
If you were a little closer I certainly would help you..... :)



If a strange truck shows up tonight on a hook I'll know who it belongs to. :-laf



Let me know how it comes out.



Mike. :)
 
Dennis

Mine broke the same place the week before we went to Warren. I was lucky mine let go when the mechanic was bleeding the brakes after changing the front calipers.



Nigel
 
I feel your pain. Fortunately?? I live very close to a salt mine which provides the salt for roads for most of the north east so I don't get whatever liquid melter Mike is talking about. I think 10 years is good for rust on brake lines in this part of the country. On many different vehicles I have owned I have had to replace them around that time. 10 years and anything rusting through is fair game in my book. I just had to replace a failed oil pan due to rust after only 4. 5 winters (took delivery mid February 2006). I also have rust starting to come through the paint over the rear wheel wells. Before I took delivery of the truck, I had the truck totally Ziebarted with their "rust proof" package" and it has gone back every year for inspection. I also have unlimited car washes that I use at least once a week to make sure crap gets off the truck. I believe I have done everything possible to keep rust at bay with this vehicle yet here I am with a bunch of it. My 2002 Dakota still has the origional oil pan still and the only visible rust is on the bumper. I have expectations that I should be able to go through about 7 winters before I run into real trouble. That seems to be about the average around this area before you really start to run into issues. I do feel this is a quality issue with my truck as I have only 4. 5 winters on mine. It does make me think about other brands but I just don't want to leave my Cummins. Glad you are OK. These new lines should outlast the rest of your truck. Very rare to see 20 year old trucks still on the road up north here.
 
I have to admit, that turned out to be esier than I could have imagined. Of course, I have a set of forks for my tractor and could drop and raise the fuel tank with it.



The Cunifer hydraulic line (Copper Nickle) was a breeze! I needed a 154" so I bought the 25' roll. I unrolled about 12 feet and masking taped the end of the new to the tip of the old line. I then matched the bends and taped the two lines (old and new) together, every couple of feet. The new stuff is extremely maleable. When I was done, I had twin hydraulic lines.



I used the old line as a stiffiner for the new, and working from front to back, installed the new line. Once in place, a cut the masking tape and slid the old hydraulic line out. The new one was a perfect fit, and laid nicely in all of the clips. They were standard thread 3/8 fittings on 3/16ths line.



The Fuel tank slipped right back in place and the job was almost done. . . until i tried to bleed the brakes :(



So, this morning, I am replacing both rear wheel cylinders and shoes. I'm hoping that I can get the brake lines off the old cylinders without breaking anything else. I started spraying PB Blaster on all of the fittings and bleeder valves a few days ago, but, I have never had much luck with the stuff. I just use it so that I can say I tried. Hope to have the truck ready today. It is nice not working, but it will make for a very small pay check! :-laf :rolleyes: :mad: :{



As far as the tool for flaring goes, it turns out the husband of my Wifes co-worker had one made by Summit Racing. It was very simple and quick. Again, this line is so maleable that it readily accepts flaring. There is a difference I believe in the flaring from the cheap tools to the $400 Double flaring tool. I think the Expensive tool flares the tubing and rolls the edge, hence, a double flare. The cheap tools, literally just make a straight funnel shaped flare. Does it really matter?!?! Guess we shall see.



Thanks for all the help. Couldn't have done it without you.



Dennis
 
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After writing the tool info above, I couldn't help but think there is something to the different flaring tools. It turns out, the KD brand tool is in fact a double flaring tool with a piece that rolls the edge first. There is a difference as well in the angle of the flare, with the Summit Racing single flare being 37 degrees, and the KD being 45 degrees. I bought the KD kit and will do my axle lines with it. The tool is pretty small, so I may be able to disconnect my main line and redo the flares in place, without having to take the line and fuel tank out again.



Live and learn. Figured I would post this so that everyone can learn from my mistakes, or at least laugh at them. :)
 
Thanks for the heads up. I spent this morning under my truck going over my brake lines to make sure this hopefully won't happen to me. So far so good.
 
The job is done. I have brakes again! Oo. I folded the old brake line up to put it in the trash and it snapped in five more places! It was failing in a number of places for sure. I will have to tackle the front lines next. They are looking pretty shabby.



I changed the flares on the long line, and was able to do it in place. Very convenient! I now have new brake cylinders on the rear, and that is a good thing because one had failed due to corrosion. So I haven't had braking on the right rear in who knows how long. The lines that cross the rear axle are new now, so that should take care of the hind end.



I couldn't have done it without the support and guidance of the TDR members. Those that have helpful information, are worth their weight in gold. In todays market, that makes you nearly priceless! :)



Thanks again.



Dennis
 
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