DCEP vs AC for stick welding

[formula]

Would like to get a better idea of the use of DCEP (direct current electrode positive) vs AC for stick welding. What would be the application and benefits / drawbacks for each?



Also, I was welding together some 1/4 x 2" angle iron (not so clean, still rusty) with 1/8 6011 rod. The inside and outside corner joints were no problem, had the welder set on EP at 100 amps and was able to run a decent bead. Had a bit of trouble with doing some T joints though. Kept burning through the end of the angle iron where it butted up to the flat piece I was welding it to. I tried turning down the amperage to 75, but then it seemed to not get good penetration into the flat piece and made a rather ugly tall bead. Next I tried making two passes, first on the flat piece then on top of the first pass to join that into the end piece. That worked better, but still not so well. Any suggestions? Perhaps just more practice?



Cheers,

Sean

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Set your welder to TIG and try that...



AC results in a lot of spatter... DC is a lot more smooth and easier to control.



I took a 3/8" piece of plate and did tic-tac-toe on it with some 7014 rod... . DCEP was the smoothest, best quality and easiest to control.



Agades is our resident welding expert... .



Matt

 

[RBrunson]

Try going to a 3/32" rod on DC with amps turned down. When doing a seam, keep your heat on the heavy or non-seam part and gently washing your rod up on the seam to the metal you are joining to. Any good results you get are going to result in you doing a lot of practicing.

Any place you have an air gap between metals you are going to get a burn out or hot spot very quickley. The trick here is to move your welding rod quickly on and off these areas. You will be surprised how quickly it cools and you can go right back to deposit more metal. Hold a very short arc, the further away from your work the hotter things are going to get.

Best thing to do is practice, practice, practice

 

[HoleshotHolset]

That's good advice, Ron!



Matt

 

[formula]

Thanks Ron I did some more sticking last night. Much better results and no burn through. Another question though... ... . when using 7018 rod is it supposed to create any spatter? I cleaned up the work right down to shiny clean metal with a grinder and it was still spattering a little, albeit nowhere near as much spatter as a 6011 rod. Appeared to be just the flux that was spattering off, not metal globs. The wire wheel cleaned everything off when I removed the slag. Can certainly tell when the work is less than clean..... spatters all over the place and looks like rice krispies



Sean

 

[nickleinonen]

6011 splatters more than 7018. but 6011 works good if the metal is dirty/old/oily/crystalized...

 

[formula]

Ah, then I take it that 7018 does normally produce a small amount of spatter. Just want to be sure that I'm not doing something wrong.



Sean

 

[nickleinonen]

Originally posted by formula

Ah, then I take it that 7018 does normally produce a small amount of spatter. Just want to be sure that I'm not doing something wrong.



Sean

oh yeah 7018 will spatter [especially if rusty-dirty metal] and i have a quarter sized burn on my stomach from a nice splatter glop that pop'd from some rusty metal i was overhead welding with 7018 [shoulda used 6011 maybe but was too lasy to find some] at work and it went down my shirt [where i stopped it from going down further is where the burn is worst. i had to get my shirt untucked out of my pants before shaking the blob out. didn't want it going down there ]

 

[RBrunson]

formula, you need to watch the slag on the 7018 when it cools it will at times pop off by itself and usually finds bare skin Stainless steel rod slag will do the same thing, but both welds are a lot easier to slag off than 6010 or 6011.

If you do some stainless welding, slag off the weld and then get a spray type bottle with water in it. When it is cooled down a little spray the weld and brush the weld at the same time with a small stainless steel brush, (welding supply stores have them, look like a large tooth brush) the weld will clean up and shine nice and bright.

Some of the welders out there might have a better formula other than water, but water works real well and its perty cheap.

 

[formula]

I do need to get some additional protective gear. I've only got some basics right now, such as heavy welding gloves and a thick canvas type shirt. Any suggestions for additional gear?



Will that water trick work on a TIG'd stainless weld? I'm going to be making a new bow rail for my boat with some stainless tubing. I'd like to preserve the shine and texture of the bead as much as possible.



Sean

 

[HoleshotHolset]

When TIGging stainless... . I have read that your best bet is to 'backgas' the weldment to avoid atmospheric contaminiation.



Matt