Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) DD3 with Boost Fooler

[Lama]

Seems to be a recent topic, but would like to see if I can get a clear answer, hopefully from someone with this exact mod.



How much power and smoke would I get with a BD Performance ($59. 00) Boost Fooler with elbow, and DD3 injectors on stock 98. 5 24V 5speed.



I do NOT want smoke in town, or high EGT when towing. I won't mind controllable EGT on hills( downshift-able), but not EGT that if someone borrowed the rig, could melt something. I really don't want noticeable smoke.



I will have guages and clutch.



I know I should be looking more at Edge or no-wire Comp with DD2, but I would rather have it be "all motor", no electrics, except the boost fooler.



Thanks.

 

[cjohnson]

I've got DDIII's and the comp box, but with the comp off it acts just like a boost fooler, no other fueling enhancements. The III's by themself smoke very little, no more than a light haze unless you stand on it with really low rpm and boost, even then, its not a fogging. Very acceptable in my opinion. If you are towing heavy, you still want to keep an eye on the temps, but its pretty easy to keep under control except on really large grades.



You could easily let somone else drive your truck unloaded with little concern about temps. The smoke really comes on when you combine boxes with bigger injectors - then you have the early introduction of fuel and the injectors to feed it = smoke. The III's by themselves are smooth too.



This is all assuming you aren't at a high altitude.



Craig

 

[WadePatton]

Just DO IT!!!

Hasn't Joe or Keith or Lawrence or US warped your head yet?



Do the 3's and fooler. You'll be able to MAKE it smoke, but once you learn to drive with that capability, you'll quickly learn how NOT to smoke.



Put a red mark on the pyro and make everyone who drives it sign a contract not to go past that point. Or just don't let other people TOW with your truck.



Only towing or at high-elevation do you need to worry about it getting hot. And then there's this neat little thing at the end of your leg. All you do is lift your foot and the EGT's drop--that simple.

 

[Lama]

Thanks Craig and Wade. Craig, how is the power with DD3 and no fuel/timing? I noticed you have 4" exhaust, is this needed with the DD3's?



Wade, yes have been to DD, and there are lots of expensive parts sitting in the showroom. A man could go crazy.

 

[WadePatton]

You'll be fine with the stock exhaust as long as the stock muffler is removed. I ran the DDUFM on straight 3".



My setup yeilded about 90 dyno HP with 3's alone. It's good power, it just comes on a little softer/queiter than a box with timing.

 

[Claw231]

Would DD3s work with a stock 2000 auto? If so how long should I expect it to last before something happens?



Thanks,

 

[WadePatton]

Piston Slapper is running a Comp on a stock auto (99 4x2) without problems so far. I think the 3's would be much easier on the transmission/clutch than a box with timing. MOF I'm pretty sure of that.



If you're not towing heavy a lot, I wouldn't worry about it, but trannies and clutches vary considerably in their holding power.



I'd start a saving for the transmission though. Eventually you'll need it.

 

[Mad Bomber]

III's

Lama, the early 24V injection pumps do have a higher rate of failer if you hook up the comp wire. IMHO with that truck I would'nt get a comp.

 

[Lama]

Thanks guys, DD3's with boost fooler it will be.

 

[Mad Bomber]

III's

Lama, I do have to admit that have a drag comp and II's is a nice combo. Have you taken a fast ride in a real bombed truck it's a real scream?

 

[cjohnson]

The injectors alone don't have the hit that they do combined with a box, but they are smooth and easy on parts. Once exposed to the box inector/combo, anything less seems inadequate. But I do most of my daily driving with the III's by themselves, and they are real nice for that, I just like knowing I have all the extra power on tap with the push of a button. The advantage of the injectors by themselves or the boxes by themselves for that matter really aren't realized until combined with the other, they sort of work in conjunction with eachother. With the box off, the "hit" off the bottom is noticeably absent, but so are the egt's and smoke. And injectors alone are nice and easy on parts. You really can't go wrong with the III's for what you want in my opinion. I've never run my III's with the stock exhaust so I wouldn't know for sure about egt's, but like previously mentioned, I imagine you would be fine with just a more free flowing muffler.



Craig

 

[Diesel Freak]

One of the SMOOTHEST combo's out there is a set of DD3's, a boost fooler, and a PDR40. EGT will not be a problem with this combo either.



This exact combo made 341 HP on my '01 ETH. I would expect only 325 from your ETC.

 

[Lama]

cj / Freak, thanks for the replies, exactly what I was hoping seeing as you both have or had this setup, I take it as real world experience.



My thoughts are to get a Boost Fooler/elbow with DD3's and set that as the engines baseline potential... i. e. , thats the way its setup now "stock". After that is accomplished and the driveability is known, add 4" Rip Rook and a 40 turbo... and see what the extra air does... . still working with "hard parts" only. Once again, establish driveability with these mechanical items. If I ever add a box later, I will know that it is the box that took the engine to a strange state of tune, not the hard parts.



Thanks for the encouragement.

 

[isb360]

Pardon the novice question, but what exactly IS a boost fooler/elbow. I understand the concept of fooling the ECM into not defueling with larger injectors and consequent higher boost, but I do not understand specifically how they work. The elbow is the post-turbo elbow? Thanks for your patience and explanations...





Tim

 

[Bob Wagner]

good reading

 

[WadePatton]

Originally posted by isb360

Pardon the novice question, but what exactly IS a boost fooler/elbow. I understand the concept of fooling the ECM into not defueling with larger injectors and consequent higher boost, but I do not understand specifically how they work. The elbow is the post-turbo elbow?

Tim

The elbow simply a restrictive orifice that reduces/slows the pressure that the wastegate actuater sees, thereby making the wastegate function slower without completely disabling it.



Look near the bottom front of your turbo for a small rubber hose that goes to the wastgate actuator. The brass fitting screwed into the turbo is what you replace.



The fooler keeps the ECM from seeing "excess" boost.