Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) DE-sensitize my throttle

[Todd T]

I need to make my throttle not so responsive. the problem i have is it takes very little throttle to rev the truck. driving its not a problem. but now that winter is here, i have started using my high idler. i can only adjust it to about 1100 RPM's anything above that when i activate it, it will rev the engine up past 3K and slowly return it to what the idler is set at. I have a 0 plate. i have the plate about 2/3rds forward and the initial screw is set to limited smoke. i have a 4K GSK, 191's and custom injectors the equivalent to 370's. the truck runs like a scalded dog but has too sensitive of a throttle. these injectors dump too much fuel at idle is what i think is part of the problem.



I'm thinking move the plate back a tad first. what then?



thanks,

Todd

 

[esommer2500]

I have a similar problem...

I installed my 3K GSK and my Bowers' high idle setup on the same day. We ended up having to adjust the idle down, and I think that Dad set her a little too low. Anyway, when I engage the high idle, it will hold at about 1,000 RPM's for about two or three minutes and then rev itself up to about 2,400 without any notice.



Also, I have posted on this before, but my pedal is softer than it was before. Admittedly, I haven't had time to check into the possibility of a lost spring, but didn't find anything in the shop afterwards. I'll probably call Piers next week and see what he thinks about it being related to the GSK or the idle possibly being set too low.



Eric

 

[drees1]

The GSK is responsible for the fast reaction at the foot pedal. The other mods have very little effect on your problem. Not sure how your high idler works, or how it is made, but fixing the problem without taking out the GSK will require more precise control of the linkage.

 

[JohnE]

Either Piers or Al told me the throttle response should by very even (steady, linear, progressive, etc. ) after you install a GSK. I did my initial install to original spring tensionsand the idle was almost unchanged.

I reset the spring tension from scratch based on new instructions and went to the higher side of tension. I was hoping to get rid a of a slight stumble or flutter in the 1,100 rpm range. I moved the flutter to 1600 rpm and the throttle response was not even. I got very slow rpm increase and then it would jump 1,000 rpm. The springs were too tight.

I reset them a click looser on each stack and the flutter is almost non-existent and the throttle response is very smooth.



If you have to lower your idle screw after installing a GSK then you probably have one or both spring stacks a click tight.



Controlling those injectors means fine tuning of the aneroid controls (AFC). Depending on the 0 plate (never seen one) it may not help much sliding it back. I assume it has very little fuel control ramp in idle.

 

[Deezul1]

Try backing the GSK spring tension off 1 or 2 clicks, my throttle was way touchy till I did that.

 

[Todd T]

maybe i should try that Deezul! i would describe my throttle as Way too touchy, too. like i said, its not really a problem until you start using something like the high idler. it just takes sooooo little throttle to rev and the idler is just a bit too crude for fine tuning.



today it worked fine for a few minutes then out of the blue reved high for a few seconds after the heaters kicked off. dry reving a cold engine to 3K can't be good



the only thing i was thinking with the plate is with the plate back further it would allow less rack travel until the lever rose up the plate and fell off the idle bump. a zero plate looks stock at the bottom then just falls off into never never land the rest of the way up. I have it set to limit rack travel to 19MM.



i better limber up tonight with some 12oz curls and attack it in the morning



I have some injection pump books coming from Amazon but the derned things are backordered