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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Dead pedal

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) lift pump problems I think

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission tires

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Hello all, I've been dealing with the dead pedal issue for some time and it keeps coming back. I tried the reset method, battery disconnect and that worked for a while. Then replaced the APPS one from Genos and that worked for a while. My injector pump was replaced with a Industrial Injectors rebuild a few years back so Im ruling that out. Now what?????????
 
Still points to a sick IP. Your fuel pressure seems low. I've never seen below 15 towing, and average 18-22 light. My lift pump is not a Fass, but is aftermarket, frame mounted. What is your fuel pressure pre-filter? Just move your sender to the opposite port and tell us what it reads there.
 
Need to see what if any codes you have. Does your fuel pressure drop that much even with a new filter? 8 psi is pushing the envelope of safe operating range of the vp.
 
Hello all, I've been dealing with the dead pedal issue for some time and it keeps coming back. I tried the reset method, battery disconnect and that worked for a while. Then replaced the APPS one from Genos and that worked for a while. My injector pump was replaced with a Industrial Injectors rebuild a few years back so Im ruling that out. Now what?????????



I have been battling the dead pedal for almost 6 months. I am getting two codes constantly (P0122 and P1536) APPS signal voltage low and Speed switch voltage always high. There is also the occasional P1693 Companion Code. I can somewhat control the code issue if I always pug my block heater in at night (temps around 40) after three consecutive starts the MIL goes out. If I allow the grid heaters to preheat the manifold I will certainly get the same two codes. The VP44 is having long crank issues and I know this is a partial failure of the VP44. I have cured that problem by installing a switch to break the ground on the lift pump. The dead pedal comes and goes and will usually clear itself if I pull over and shut the truck down and restart it. I have been racking my brains to try and figure out the MIL illumination problem and resulting codes being set. I just couldn't come up with an association until I thought long and hard yesterday. If I have low battery voltage/amps could this affect the two items throwing the codes. After driving the truck for a while I shut it down and measured the voltage on the two batteries separately. The result was right after shutdown both batteries had about 12. 8 volts each. Within a matter of 10 minutes the voltage dropped to 12. 2 volts. I replaced both batteries and all four cable terminals. The batteries are now at 14. 2 volts when I shut down and remain there for the same 10 minutes. The interesting thing is I drove the tuck approximately 100 miles and restarted it several times and there are no codes and no dead pedal. I believe the supply voltage was too low and therefore could not send the correct signal voltage to the two respective components that were setting the code. This is just food for thought check your individual battery outputs and if one or both batteries are discharging rapidly you may want to replace both the batteries. It is imperative that you replace the batteries as a set. 232000 miles and 13 years on the truck and this is my third set of batteries. The factory set lasted 7 years before going bad the second set I purchased from Walmart and got a little over six years (no complaint) the new set is from Auto Zone and I expect another six or seven years out of them. I also keep a routine cleaning on the terminals to reduce corrosion. There you have my story.
 
I replaced both batteries and all four cable terminals



This will be the root cause of many problems, replacement terminals are a TEMPORARY solution and should not be used long term. I have lost count of the problems found and solved by replacing full cables instead of ends.
 
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If they are the clamp onto the wire type battery terminals i would put good ones on also. Some very nice terminals that are quick, easy and quality are Fusion battery terminals. The solder is already inside of them, you just heat up with a torch, you hold the terminal so the melting solder dosent pour out and then just shove the wire in, hold a few seconds and let cool. But if your copperwire is oxidized, you want to strip it to the point that isnt anymore and leave little to no exposed copper. Brand new cables are best, but fusion terminals, or soldered terminals are the next best thing.
 
I guess I should have clarified or justified the terminal replacement. I have a very good friend that owns a auto electric shop and at his suggestion and in his shop we cut all the cables back to fresh copper soldered lugs onto the bare copper. We installed Hummer Style terminals and placed the lugs on the terminals. This is the same method we used on my 1979 Chevy 1 ton. Those cables lasted over 20 years (July of 2000 actually when I purchased the Dodge I have now). Corrosion is the root of all evil cleanliness is not. During that more that 20 years I only replaced the terminals. I assume I will get the same longevity out of this truck (or better) oh yeah and now several hundred miles since the battery replacement and still no codes returning or dead pedal. I am a happy camper. I would not suggest the use of Walmart or similar quality terminals. Oh one other thing I stopped the hunting with a noise filter at just over 100000 miles and there has been no hunting issue since. 232000 on the stock transmission and torque converter. Still loving life.
 
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A direct copy/paste from Blue Chip's VP diagnostic writeup:
"The symptom of Dead Pedal is rarely caused by the APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position aka Throttle Position Sensor) and 90% of the time it is caused by a faulty computer on the top of VP44 Injection Pump. "

The reason fuel flow is in question is because fuel not used to feed the engine is used to lube the IP and cool the electronics before being sent back to the tank. Low fuel flow will cause the VP's computer to run hotter which can contribute to a lot of different problems.

Read it all here:
http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html
 
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