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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Death wobble is going to kill me!

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It's finally happened - I have an very bad case of death wobble. It was so bad that I came VERY close to bouncing off of the highway. On the plus side it knocked all of the trapped sand out from between the fender and wheel well. :rolleyes: I've checked the front suspension and all is tight. Almost everything is about 2 years old (except right side ball joints). Ball joints were verified to be OK by jacking up front axle about 2" and placing a bar under the tire, then attempting to "wiggle" the ball joint - no movement. All of the tie rods were checked by using channel locks to squeeze the joints - same as the ball joints, no play. Track bar is also tight. Shocks were replaced this spring - bushings are good. Only thing not changed was the sway bar bushings. Would they cause the wobble? The bar isn't loose. Also, I adjusted the steering box "over the center" adjsutment (allex screw) by screwing it in and backing off 1/4 turn. Box is reasonably tight. But the wobble is still there. I'm lost for ideas other than looking to have the front end aligned by someone that'll set the caster between 3-4 degrees or maybe flipping the tires around. Any help is appreciated.
 
How are the suspension bushings? If they're worn, they'll be a good source of axle play. The stabilizer joints are ball-n-socket too; worn joints *could* contribute by not keeping the vertical motion of the axle ends in check. How's the tire pressure and the sidewall strength? Weak sidewalls and/or low pressure could allow excessive motion as well.

There was a recent thread where the owner found that the suspension bushings were really bad (stand on the brakes, put it in gear and the body/frame moved 1/2 inch or so while the tires stayed still). He replaced them and the problem vanished. There's a possibility that your frame has cracked, where the steering gear is mounted.

I hate when these trucks have the "couldbees": could be this, could be that... .
 
I have also seen instances where changing the front shocks can help significantly.
This is one of the 'try this' that can go on forever.
 
the only time my truck got the death wobble was when my stabilizer shock was bad. no cases of it since. well almost once. but then I replaced the trac bar again and all is well.
 
Thanks for the replies. I think I'm going to rotate the tires to see if that's the problem. They are about 2/3 worn. The steering stabilizer 'shock' is new - 2 years ago. I suppose it could be worn out too. I've been thinking about the control arm bushings - good idea to stand on the brakes to check play...
 
I've got the same problem as the original poster. I just replaced my track bar tonight and went for a drive. No change. The front ends of these trucks are so frustrating. I'm also thinking of replacing the steering stabilizer shock, but I HATE just to throw parts ($$$$) at a problem. wtfd6, did you have the terrible shakes that wouldn't stop until you stopped the truck?
 
just once. it was when I hit a set of railroad tracks at about 45. other then that I have only felt a small shake. after the track bar that was gone. mine wasnt a severe case.
 
when I got mine I tried an aftermarket. but it was too small and wouldnt fit anyway. I got mine right from the dealer.
 
vssman, I hope I'm not butting in on your thread, but where did you buy your 2 year old steering damper?



I believe it was a monroe brand I bought from rockauto.com





I took it to a shop that specializes in front end work. He found the stabilizer shock had a dead spot in it - possibly air bound. They also aligned it and set the caster to 3 degrees. Tow was also out. I don't know what brand the new stabilizer shock is but it's a larger diameter than the one he took off. I do know it's not a heavy duty off road shock as they told me that those units can cause wander by not allowing the wheel to self center as easily. Hmmm... maybe that's true. FWIW the steering is noticeable 'stiffer' so the stabilizer may have been bad. Everything else was found to be tight and in good condition except for the I-shaft which is showing signs of wear. Go figure... I used to be responsible for the assembly line that made those I-shafts for DCX at my past job - actually it was the DR version as the BRs aren't being made anymore. Looks like I'll need to call Borgeson sometime soon. :-laf Hopefully this takes care of the problem - I never want to experience that ever again.
 
Thanks vssman. I bought a rancho brand damper at a local parts house. It was a little more ($57) than the monroe I saw on the web but it was in stock and it looked heavier. We had to modify the bushings that came with the rancho but its on now. Anyway it seems to have cured my problem. I've finally got my truck back to normal, well I guess that a tight front end is abnormal for a Dodge. :-laf
 
A new steering stabilizer is only covering up the problem if it appears to eliminate DW. You might try a few more degrees of caster if EVERYTHING else is good.



Brian
 
You might try a few more degrees of caster if EVERYTHING else is good.



Brian



Brian,



I'm not a front end person so please treat the question and provide an answer in "laymen's" terms.



Cam washer on lower arm to axel has arrow showing the high spot. The upside down "U" shaped pockets on each side of the adjustment/connecting bolts have 9 hash marks. I'm guessing the hash marks are "points of reference" for the cam washer mark only. So, how do you "add" or "subtract" degrees? Does it need to be "measured" on alignment rack? OR, can we do in our driveways at home.
 
A new steering stabilizer is only covering up the problem if it appears to eliminate DW. You might try a few more degrees of caster if EVERYTHING else is good.



Brian



That's my fear - You never really know if you've found the problem...



Now for the stupid question - Which way is positive caster? Is it when the lower control arms are made 'longer'?
 
Making the lower control arm 'longer' increases the positive caster - it's an easy adjustment to do in the driveway. Just mark the original position so you can always reset it and make sure both sides are on the same hash mark. Otherwise you're trying to twist the axle - good luck with that.



Brian
 
Thanks Brian!



Any idea about how many degrees each 'hash' mark is? I know mine is set to 3 degrees - both sides. I'm assuming the axle must be unloaded when making the adjustments.
 
I do not know how many degrees each hash mark works out to be. Yes, unload the front suspension/let it hang by supporting the frame.



It's very easy to do provided the bolts aren't seized due to rust/corrosion.



Brian
 
I've found on my 96 that when the death wobble comes it's shock time. 20 years ago (wow time sure does fly) when i worked as a mechanic we used to only use monroe shocks in the late 80's i switched over to kyb gas adjusts the monroe's started to fail on a regular basis after only a couple of months I stopped using them when i pulled a dead one from the box. i set against the wall and the piston dropped under its own weight. I would pull the front shocks out and "bench test them" just push and and pull on them and see how easy or hard it is to compress and extend if there is little or no resistence you found your problem
 
Good point... . Later this week after it cools down a bit, I'll check the shocks. I figure I can pull the top mount cap off of the truck and 'exercise' the shock that way. They are new (installed this past late winter) but you never know - I'm sure bilsteins go bad too. I did check the top shock bushings - which are good. The darn suspension is so stiff that I'm not sure one could tell if a shock was worn unless it was removed from the truck. This weekend I have to go over that same road - Hmmm... Do I take the truck or go in the car instead :rolleyes:
 
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