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Death Wobble

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My truck has the very beginings of the "death wobble", I replaced the tires this week and it got a little worse (I went from 215's to 235's). The truck rides great with no vibrations or "wobbling" until I hit the wrong bump or step on the brakes, then it starts to wobble slightly. I know the rotors need to be cut because they are SLIGHTLY warped, but warped rotors shouldn't cause the death wobble on their own. I also was present when the new tires were balanced, so I know it was done correctly. I searched the threads regarding the wobble and found that the teflon bushings may be worn in the Dana axle. Does anyone have the part number for replacements? Also the part number for the springs that keep tension on the bushings. I know if I ask Dodge to find it they'll end up getting me a lock cylinder for a '72 Plymouth.
 
I have considerable amount of time working with the Ford trucks/Powerjokes. I would see this a lot when the ball joints worn. The driver would be just fine at 70 mph than hit a small pot hole on the highway and the truck would darn near loose control.



The Dodge 4X4's dont use ball joints ,however I would suspect it to be the king pin bushings/spring as you described. There was a write up in a past magazine not long ago about how to fix this with out going to the dealership and installing the nylon bushing/spring assy.



-S
 
Brian,



You didn't mention it, so I'll ask. Are you centering the wheels with coned lugnuts? The 350s have the flat lugnuts, but the wheel doesn't center itself on the hub.



I had to go buy 4 coned lugnuts (5/8" x 18). Every other hole on the wheel has a "seat". Use the 4 coned lugnuts on the seats to center the wheel. Then put on 4 flats lugnuts. Take off the coned ones and replace with the remaining flats. If your wheel simulators are like mine, to get the slots to line up, you'll have to take 2 of the cones off to get them on.



I had read about this several times before I tried it, and most of my highway wobble disappeared. The biggest problem I have with it, is that the largest nut I can find in the coned version is 1 1/16, where the flats are 1 1/8. It all the switching of sockets that makes it a real pain.



If you were already doing this, please disregard.
 
I found the death wobble this summer, going over railroad tracks at an angle say of 30 or more degrees, or that certain pot hole in the road. Not knowing what to do, and wanting the front end up to level, I bought the skyjacker springs ,W200. I liked the ride a bit better, and the fact that the truck is level. The only other thing I replaced was the tie rod and ends. One tie rod end was rusted in, so I had to replace the whole thing... . DC part. The wobbles seem to be behind me as it were. :D



Good luck



Dave
 
Thanks for all the input, once again first genner's are quick to help out.

Phil, the truck only wobbles over certain bumps while engaging the brakes. If the fronts were off as you said, it would wobble all the time, right? All other components of the front end are tight (tie rods, pitman, etc. ) I'm going to pull the covers off the top of the knuckle and inspect the bushings and spring. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again, Brian.
 
On my 86 W250 the front rotors were warped BIG time and when i hit the brakes it would definitely do the funky chicken. Scared the carp outta me a few times (try hitting a traffic jam on Sunrise hwy and doing a panic stop). It almost felt as if the trusk was hopping up and down... if that helps ata all. New rotors cured it, havent had any probs with the CTD yet... knock wood.
 
I just thought I'd add my two cents worth. I just bought my truck a couple of weeks ago and I knew the front brakes were bad when I bought it. It was occasionally doing the "death wobble" when pressing the and occasionally it seemed to want to do it even when not pressing the brakes and the right bump was hit. I changed the rotors and pads, and made sure the pistons on both calipers moved freely (the passenger's side seemed stuck at first) and that has since cured the problem entirely.
 
You should be able to get the kingpin bushing set at any 4 wheel drive shop. Also, make sure your front wheel bearings aren't loose.

Travis. .
 
TKingsbury said:
You should be able to get the kingpin bushing set at any 4 wheel drive shop. Also, make sure your front wheel bearings aren't loose.

Travis. .





I cured the D. W. in my 4x4 dually by changing the front springs (put on factory springs) which returns the axle to the right "pitch", in turn returning the caster-camber to near factory settings. Finished off the wobble with an alignment shop toe-in.
 
I had this problem about a year ago I replaced rotors,calipers and checked the bushings on the king pin. After I replaced all that it went away :-laf. Winter comes and I put the steels and snowtires on,No problem. Now just put the Alcoas back on and it's back even worse. If I have the bed loaded it only needs a bump to set it off. It's got to be the tire angle(alinement) causing the problem even though the truck drives straight as an arrow. So what to do replace springs and bushings and hope it works?
 
I've done a bunch of research since posting this thread, and the general consensus is that the upper king pin bushing and/or spring is usually the culprit. The spring loses tension due to constant pressure on the bushing, and can no longer hold the bushing in place under stress (i. e. hitting a bump, warped rotors, out of balance tires, etc. ). A bad spring won't show up if you jack the truck up and check for play, they generally still have enough tension to fool you into thinking it's still good. The only way to know for sure is to replace it. I just got my replacement parts in the mail today, when I replace them I'll let you know the outcome. ($17. 00 for the parts to do both sides, springs, spring cups, and bushings). I got them from a place called "OFFROAD DESIGN" (970) 945-7777, they shipped me the parts second day freight. They don't list the parts on their website, but call them directly and they'll be happy to help out. They also recommend putting the old spring cups on top of the new spring in addition to the new cups on the bottom. This adds an additional . 060" to the spring pressure. Again, I'll let everyone know the outcome.
 
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Ya let us know. As of this morning I can't drive the truck safely. It wobbles slightly while driving and if I hit a bump it causes the out of phase wobble to the point of shaking the truck out of control. :--)
 
I installed a Rancho steering stabilizer on my truck when the "death wobble" started and it worked great, no more wobble! However, I consider this to be a "band-aid" fix and I am still going to replace the upper king pin bushings and springs. The "band-aid" fix was also expensive, $129. 00 for the dual stabilizer kit but only twenty minutes to install it. If you absolutely have to drive your truck and don't have the time to do the bushings/springs, a steering stabilizer will make the problem go away so it's safe to drive again.
 
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I ordered the bushing /spring kit today. What the h%$# can't go wrong replacing them anyway. At 215k I guess it could be worse. I'm going to check out a stablizer kit to.
 
Be careful when installing the steering stabilizer, I almost clamped my front brake line in with the u-bolt for the stabilizer bracket. The hard line is on the back side of the axle and runs over to the driver's side brake caliper. I didn't see it but luckily noticed it at the last minute before wrenching everything tight.
 
Speed Specific?

I think I've had my share of fun with the "Death Wobble", but I've never heard any one say anything about it being speed specific. It would only happen around 35mph. which is a problem with the 5speed because thats in between 3rd and 4th gear. If I tach it out while shifting from 3rd to 4th, I can shoot past that critical speed. This is through several different brands of tires and balancing. Interesting tho, when I put air bags on the rear axle, it almost completely cured the problem. I can barely feel it if I hang out at 35mph for a while.



Any comments?



'93 w350 club cab, LWB, BD Brake, injector tweaked
 
If the air bags lifted or lowered (more than likely lifted) the back of your truck, you changed the front axle's caster, the wrong caster can cause "death wobble". Small changes in the degree of caster can make a large difference.
 
rotors rotors rotors

ill say it again rotors i replace mine every 2 years even if no wear



and take apart king pin down to bearings i just did mine at the streering is great





but whobble is always rotors nothing else on a 1 st gen 4x4
 
I also experienced the Death Wobble after buying my truck a year ago. It happened the first time I started to descend Teton pass, 9,600' to 6,500', 10% grade. I was braking and turning. After four trips to the brake shop, well two different brake shops, new tires, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, (not in that order) my wobble is gone. I had the rotors turned the first and second time by different brake shops. Both said the rotors were still within limits?? I don't buy it and will never have rotors turned again. I am convinced that once they warp, even after being turned, they will warp again easily due to a change in the metal from the heat. Both times the rotors worked for 1000 miles. I am going to play it safe and call Off Road Design and order the spring, cup and bushing kit tomorrow anyway though. Don't need the extra excitement in my life, not from the Death Wobble. If you haven't experienced it, you don't want to, If you have, you don't want to again.
 
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For what its worth a friend of mines 97 1500 had a death wobble and he replaced everything in the front end bushings draglinks everything and still did it. he put new shocks and we put it on his lift and the rear trans mount was shot. he replaced it and problem solved. the mount was just old
 
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