Def problem /limp mode

[JR]

And how do you really know what your fixing without a proper diagnosis (scan tool).....
There really isnt an answer to what you are asking. If your going in blind and guessing at the fix your only option is to drive it and find out...it will either continue on, or it will not. There is no other way to tell without being plugged in.

I think Wayne has given sound advice in post 24. Wet harness = bad pump. But again, its an educated guess on the other end of a monitor.
Your options at this point are to replace harness and pump yourself and hope for the best, or get another opinion from someone with a scan tool and some knowledge.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Ok, i personally don't have any scan tool. I've just been trying to find a solution but see so many talking how this tool can erase this and this tool can erase that, but never have someone say that if I fix problem at least I will know by not telling me in X number of miles I will go into limp mode

Without the proper diagnostic tools, your best bet is to take it to a qualified shop for the repair.
Out of warranty, you need to find a good independent shop, dealer will be the most expensive.

 

[J Larry]

I had the check engine light scanned, researched the codes.

I took it to a dealer for more intimate scan, was told it was the pump then other stuff that was a lie.

Then I asked on forums and was told by numerous people before paying for the pump, check the wiring harness. Even a shop I contacted here told me, yes without a new scan, that with the number of codes showing, he would guess on the harness rather than pump.

I was going to do as suggested and remove harness and check it out myself and if I found a problem, replace the harness.

All I was asking is if I did this, and by some miracle found a problem in the harness, replaced it, would it continue to count the miles to limp mode still or stop without scanning it.

I know it would be great to have a scan tool, even if better to have the money to take it to a professional to have it fixed.

Since I have neither I asked what I thought was a simple question.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

It may well clear itself if you fix the issue, it should clear the codes if what you do fixes it, that may or may not stop the countdown to limp mode.
Try it.

 

[Cummins12V98]

J Larry, you will find people are laser focused at times and don't look at the WORDS.

 

[Ozymandias]

50 Bucks for (the best available!) scan tool is to much but spending hundreds of dollars into parts is okay?
I'll never understand that..

 

[JR]

Since I have neither I asked what I thought was a simple question.

Youve been given the same answer multiple times. Good luck, please Let us know how things work out for you.

 

[Timd32]

DEF is pretty nasty stuff, if the harness is wet and it was not from say something external dripping down on to it. I would have a hard time plugging a new harness into a connector wet with DEF.

You can get the pin out sorry that PDF won't send to you it had the wiring and maybe the pin out in it. Along with some ohm readings for the harness.

It's way too much to post here and I don't like attaching those in the open thread.

There are probably free websites for auto codes that probably have similar info and test procedures. That PDF is from a paid service I use for my work fleet.

Hope you can figure out a solution soon.

 

[Wayne M.]

“DEF is pretty nasty stuff, if the harness is wet and it was not from say something external dripping down on to it. I would have a hard time plugging a new harness into a connector wet with DEF.”

Exactly. That’s what I was led to believe.

 

[Wiredawg]

J Larry,

You've been given some good advice, sometimes not always the best to hear. From my perspective, in a trial and error situation, you could replace the wiring harness, ruin it, and be right back where you are. And still looming over your head is the limp mode issue, that can leave you stranded. Get pencil and paper, right down the price of two harnesses, a pump, scan tool known to clear codes and limp condition, and cost of getting stranded against paying to get it done at dealership or shop. The two costs might not end up being too far off and less stress.

I empathize with you, dont pretend to know or want to know about you finances, but if it were me, I would find a way to take it to a dealer and be done with it. The clock and your odometer have been running since this started, you've heard all the advice, so it's time to do something.

Great luck and best wishes. Please let us know what you you decide and how it turns out.

Ron

 

[Wayne M.]

This is exactly why the pre emission trucks are in demand. Too bad Father Time hasn’t been kind to these.

 

[Wiredawg]

This is exactly why the pre emission trucks are in demand. Too bad Father Time hasn’t been kind to these.

You're right, but even they start to have big problems as they age... VP44s going out, ECMs crapping out, electronic injectors reaching end of life. Been reading more and more posts along those lines.

IMHO, what's really tough is trying to work on one without manuals, correct tools, and mechanical and especially electronics experience. It's enough of a challenge wither the actual circuits and associated components, but the data network that controls these components can be even more daunting. And, on 4th Gen trucks, FSM is marginal at best... not at all what Ram mechanics use, and heavily weighted on using Wi Tech. My 78 LRE FSM, and pretty much up to my former 03 Ram 2500 with three volumes of book manuals were very good.

Anyhoo, they can be tough to keep running.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Wayne M.]

Ron, you’re 100% correct. Reflecting on what I was able to get for my ‘14 Durango and my recent Ford experience, you ABSOLUTLEY must subscribe to the factory literature for any service info more than the basics. Luckily (last I checked) you can buy daily or more subs to Ram service info.

 

[sag2]

For some codes to clear the vehicle has to be repaired, monitor run, or flash the ECM. Just clearing them will not stop the countdown. The EPA wasn't stupid on that part.

 

[RDick]

Well, it happened to me! Heading to Florida, taking the back roads of Georgia, my 2016, 3500 displayed "5mi, Max w 115 mi's Service Def System See Dealer". I made it to Dublin GA. Wish I had read Rudolph Bescher's Post. Not wanting to be stuck on I-16 at 5 MPH towing a 40' toy hauler, I had the work performed at Jimmy Britt's Dodge. Pump was $1,546.60 (made in Poland), O-Ring was $47.32, Fluid was $91.00, and the labor was $503.90.

Now, after a very light wallet, I have a question to ask all of you TDR members. Is trying to get the FCA to help with some or all of my expenses, or am I beating a dead horse? With just 41,765 miles on the truck; what can I lose. In a supplement to the California Emission Warranty Book, 4500/5500 heavy - duty truck, 2016 model year, it states Georgia as one of the adopted States. Now, I know I have a 3500 but, does the 4500/5500 use the same Def pump #68085908AH? Under the 2500/3500, with 7 years or 70,000 miles, is the Urea Tank Assembly not the same as the DEF injection system? Maybe some of you 4500/5500 riders would know if the DEF pumps is the same as the 2500/3500.

Thank You for any input in this matter.

 

[sag2]

Wow, your one lucky guy. They charged you a couple hundred over retail for the pump, triple net on the O'ring. Same PN for both trucks, 68085908AH. I think you will find they will say the warranty is based on the emissions package on the truck, not on the part number. Can't hurt to ask. Also interesting the pump is on the bottom of the tank on our trucks, on the top on a 4500-5500, at least according to the diagram.

 

[2013megacab]

First, there is no prescribed EGR cleaning for 13+ CTD. Unless there is a specific problem for them to recommend this I would find another dealership. They either dont know or they do, and are trying to take you for a ride. I dont know which is worse.
.....

My 2013 threw an EVIC message that said something like "EGR service required" at 67,500 miles. somewhere I found that was to ckean the EGR valve and EGR cooler. I bought the cleaning solution and did the EGR myself. HAd to but a couple of gaskets. Easy job. The cooler was a PITA so I had the dealer do it. Then I read it really wasn't required and saw how to clear the message. Oh well, my system is nice and clean now. Since I have the solution and the gaskets are cheap, I may do the EGR again at 135K. IT was pretty dirty.

 

[Topzide]

Geno's has a kit that has gaskets, plugs and CCV filter. Did mine over 1 night. Pulled it apart to clean, let cooler soak with Purple Power overnight and reassembled the next morning. Had great write up on how to do the job. Cooler wasn't a picnic, but was worth while learning how the truck is put together. If you've got the time, tools and mechanical knowledge, why not do it yourself!

 

[Cummins12V98]

ZERO reason to do any more than replace the filter ONLY on a 13 up truck at 67,500 mile service.

Dealers make lot's of $$$ when they sucker 13 up owners with their "RECOMMENDED" service.

2013megacab, your EVIC message was to ONLY replace the filter.

 

[RDick]

ZERO reason to do any more than replace the filter ONLY on a 13 up truck at 67,500 mile service.

Dealers make lot's of $$$ when they sucker 13 up owners with their "RECOMMENDED" service.

2013megacab, your EVIC message was to ONLY replace the filter.

Thanks Sag2 for your reply, will see what I can do.

ron