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:confused:Need advice!



In my post in 2 gen no engine/transmission "Alternator Woes" I am at my wits end. I have replaced both batteries, put in two different alternators and replaced and repaired two battery cables, checked all my connections. and I cannot get this thing to indicate higher than 12V and then have the gauge drop to zero after a short time of running. What are my options, a) I cannot keep throwing cash at this thing in the hopes that I will hit the problem and b) I certainly cannot afford to have the sitting at the dealership while they have there way with me.



Any suggestions either parts wise or the name of a reliable reputable mechanic who knows what makes these things tick in the Temecula, Southern California area would be greatly appreciated. I need the ol girl up and running again as we are trying to get out of town for vacation (which is quickly starting to look like a thing of the past). Thanks
 
Who's been doing this work ? a shop or you , testing , warranty .
Testing is much better than swapping parts & hoping it works .
The crank sensor tells the computer that the eng. is running , the battery voltage tells the computer if it needs a charge , with that info , the computer is basically the regulator .
There can be some variation from yr to yr , this is basic info .
2 small wires at back of alt. , one is power one is ground , the computer controls every thing with ground , it will send out power to some things [ sensors ect. ] so a varying resistor on the ground side turns the alt. on .
Lot of bad parts out there so testing before install is recommended .
 
couple of things ,there is no external voltage it alternaternor controled by pcm. there is a battery temperature sensor under the driver side battery. might want to check these out.
 
I looked for the temp sensor under the driver side battery when the batteries where out and could not find it. Could this really be the culprit?
 
As I remember it metal disc about size of silver dollar. left battery sits on top of it ,think it has two wires to it. should be there. dont know if it coud be your problem. hope this helps.
 
Does every thing else work? Tach, cruise control. Have you tried disconnecting the ground wires to the grid heater relays to see if one or both have failed? On mine, if the load from the heaters is on too long the PCM kicks the alternator off line requireing a shut down and re-start. Do you know anyone with a same year truck that would let you try out his PCM?
 
I had actually pulled the relay for the grid heater out thinking that this would disable the heater and had the same results.



I think as much as I hate to say it, it is headed to the dealer in the morning unless something miraculous happens.
 
I just measured the resistance on the battery temp sensor and it is 7. 5K ohms un-plugged. I had read on an earlier post that it should read 9-11K. So is it bad based on this number and is it bad enough to send a signal to the PCM to shut down the alternator?
 
Unbelievable

So I take the truck to the local Dodge dealer, it's there for 4 hours, they check the entire charging system and what they refered to as a comprehensive check of the PCM.



"Bad alternator". Unbelievable, two alternators, two batteries, two cables. almost sounds like a Master Card commercial the only problem is that it isn't priceless. Dealer nails me for 600 bucks live and learn I guess.



I'll pick it up this evening hopefully it truly is fixed.



I thank you for the assistance.
 
Alternator

Make sure you get the old new alternator back and take it back and get a refund. That will recoup some of your money... . And at $600, it don't sound like they counted your alternator as a core against their new one.



Good Luck!
 
The plot thickens

So I get a call from the Dodge dealer today and he informs me that the alternator is now working just fine but now the ECM is failing. I new these guys were gonna take me for a ride.



Now the bill has gone from $600. 00 to $1050. 00... That's what I said!



How can an alternator be bad and the ECM good one day and the exact opposite the next with a new alternator installed?



Man my head is spinning.
 
So I get a call from the Dodge dealer today and he informs me that the alternator is now working just fine but now the ECM is failing. I new these guys were gonna take me for a ride.



Now the bill has gone from $600. 00 to $1050. 00... That's what I said!



How can an alternator be bad and the ECM good one day and the exact opposite the next with a new alternator installed?



Man my head is spinning.



sounds like more shotgun (changing the easiest part first and hope it fixes the problem) maintenance to me
 
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