Archived Desperatly seeking PS pump help....

[BushWakr - RIP]

Ok guys, we REALLY need some help here. My brothers '92' (he is a TDR member, just doesn't do 'puters' well)

Is now on his 9th, yup 9th, PS pump.

So far he has put in 7 brand new

which leaked withing 3 days to 4 weeks, put in 1 re-built, same result, and one more brand new one INCLUDING a brand new vacuum pump, just in case it was the cause even though testing said IT was ok.

Now this last time DC who has done all the work said come back so we can give you all your money back, including another new pump which should carry you for another week

He is DESPERATE here guys !!!!

Calls to DC service H. O. , have yielded no new ideas.

The re-built broke the chain of new pumps and the possibility of a bad batch.

It leaks from all sorts of places. One time it leaks from the front end were it joins the vacuum pump, another time it leaks from around the resivoir, other times it leaks all over the place.

Its been put on the pressure tester/simulator repeatedly to check high press. side/low pressure side,,, the works.

I know there are some rocket scientists in the group. . ANY ideas are welcome at this point.



Thanks on behalf of myself and my brother 'Woodie'

 

[Blair]

That is one heck of a bad story. The only inout I can give at this time is the seal for the vaccume pump is a 38mm os dia 28 is dia by 7mm thick and double lip viton. They are hard to find but can be had and are part of the pump from DC.





Sorry I coudn't be of more help.

 

[JHansen]

Wow-the only thing I can think of off the top of my head at this late hour is possibly a fluid restriction in a line or the pump itself causing temperatures to skyrocket which would cook the pump seals? Don't suppose you have access to an infrared thermometer? We have one at work-it would work slick for something like this... ... .



This is all I can think of at this point in time-lemme bounce it around the wide-open spaces between my ears and I'll see what I can come up with.



Jason

 

[fest3er]

Is there any flexing in the P/S pump mounting? or is the pump rigidly attached?



Has the steering gear been thoroughly checked? If it is blocked or full of metal shavings, it could be causing the pump to fail prematurely.



At this point, he should go to the dealer and have the mechanic walk him through everything that's been done or checked. And your brother should question anything about anything done. And the mechanic should gladly answer the questions. The point is not to critique the mechanic's abilities, but to get him to slowly walk through the whole process so that he'll recognize something *else* that could be related. Mechanics are human, too.



Fest3er

 

[Bill Littlefield]

Wheels turn freely

This is a long shot but...



Jack the front up and support under front axle. Pull the tie rod end off one side. Turn the wheel by hand (not around but side to side) and make sure your nuckle bearings are free. It should be pretty easy. I had a top bearing sieze up and could hardly turn the tire. Maybe this is over working the pump. ???



Like I said, its a long shot.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

1. check all fittings for restrictions.

2. change to new lines. If the inner layer of the rubber line is collapsing or torn and a flap closes the hole, pressures can build fast.

3. check the steering box for restrictions, bad rollers etc. that can prevent fluid flow or add a lot of load.

4. check the steering links for misalignment, being bent, worn joints that might add load. ( I assume you aren't using way oversized tires).

 

[MidwestMotorman]

my two cents

You can check fluid temps in the steering box by putting the end of an aftermarket temp guage in there or a thermometer that goes to 300 deg. I think the mechanic would be able to smell burnt fluid though.



Jacking the front end up is recommended. I believe you can also try and push/pull on a wheel and see how hard it is to turn the steering knuckles and linkage.



You have to make sure the rear mounting bracket gets bolted to the block. Vibration can make it leak, but this solution sounds too easy.



You can also pull a line of off the power steering gear and let the fluid (do this when warmed up) flow over a magnet to check for debris.



Make sure the fluid is flushed out of the system and the new pump gets flushed too with fluid. Also check and see what kind or brand of p/s fluid is being used, and that the system is being filled to the correct level.



Good luck.

 

[RichB59]

Could be

the orfice restriction coming out of the pump is to small. I ran into this some years ago while a parts manager for a Dodge dealer. Repeated problems with PS pumps I looked at the orfice and saw a huge difference we put the orfice from the original pump back in to the new one and like magic we were OK. Just my Exp. from along time ago. Hope it helps.



Rich B