Competition DHRA Pulling hitch clarification

[Sled Puller]

"Hitch:

The hitch must be a "Reese"-style hitch; reinforcements are permitted. Trick hitches are prohibited. The hooking point

must be the rear-most point on the vehicle. The hitch must be horizontal to the ground and stationary in all directions.

The hitch's height from the ground may not exceed 26 inches. The hooking point must have a minimum 3. 00 inch inside

diameter opening for the sled hook. The hooking point will be measured to the center of the clevis loop. "





Been getting alot of questions on this part:"The hooking point

must be the rear-most point on the vehicle. "



The rear most point of the vehicle is considered the stock location of the tailgate. If the tailgate is removed, the hitching point STILL must be where the tailgate would have been.

Rear bumper: If the rear bumper is on the truck, the bumper will be the rear most point of the truck. However, if the bumpers' center is cut out, leaving safe access for the hooker, then the tailgate will still be the rear most point.



Removal of the bumper is allowed, and "sled bumpers" can be installed, as long as they do not interfere with safe access to the hitching point by the hooker, the tailgate will remain the rearmost point of the vehicle.





Next item: "The hooking point must have a minimum 3. 00 inch inside

diameter opening for the sled hook. "



I highly suggest you make sure the hook fits your hitch before you pull onto the track at IRP.



Also, farm clevises with the 8" drop hollow ball mount turned upside down, really need to be phased out. Whats the weight rating on them rightside up? 400#? Think about it.

If you are pulling anything with more power than stock, you need to build/purchase a proper hitch.



DHRA Diesel Nationals at IRP-18 days away!!!

 

[Got Smoke?]

Next item: "The hooking point must have a minimum 3. 00 inch inside

diameter opening for the sled hook. "

Alright sleddy you didn't specifiy this so I will put my head on the chopping block.



Not that I plan on pulling at IRP, but in the future I may pull @ a DHRA event. The "Hooking point" or "clevis" was not specified to be straight up, or twisted. I bought a straight up and down clevis @ my local Tractor Supply for $20 thinking it was the right one, and it has a 3. 5" inside to inside opening. Justin Williams then tells me that you say those are not allowed, and I dig up the old thread between you and him and it appears that is what was said.



Can a straight up and down clevis be used? Or do you need to buy a twisted one so the hook drops straight down? I'm having trouble locating a twisted clevis with 3"-3. 5" inside to inside.

 

[CMNS PWR]

Having been on chain removal duty for pulling for over 200 hooks, I can say that the twisted and vertical clevises make removing the hook quite difficult. Pullers want to get hooked and unhooked quickly and these do not always allow that.

 

[Sled Puller]

Mark,

Keep the clevis you have, as it sounds plenty big, but build a piece to hook it to that will turn it horizontal, (something that has height adjustment would be best) then weld it solid from hinging or pivoting.







The hooker should be able to drop the hook straight down. Hooking isn't a lot of fun after 75... ... . trucks... ... or so! :-laf

 

[big jake 1]

Hooking isn't a lot of fun after 75... ... . trucks... ... or so! :-laf

Sleddy:



I am impressed... ... ... .





75 trucks in one night, you must be working the truck stops... .....





can you still walk??????????



I don't doubt what you are saying, you sound like you have some real experience there... ... .





hope your making some decent $$$$$







big jake



THE FORD GUY Oo. Oo. Oo.

 

[BTighe]

Sleddy:



I am impressed... ... ... .





75 trucks in one night, you must be working the truck stops... .....





can you still walk??????????



I don't doubt what you are saying, you sound like you have some real experience there... ... .





hope your making some decent $$$$$







big jake



THE FORD GUY Oo. Oo. Oo.

that may require stiches :-laf

 

[JoshPeters]

I'm sure they are talking about IRP and other BIG pulls. When a guy is "hooking" the sled... . they may be working all night. Tractors, Gassers, and Us. Talk to Turbo Tweaker... . he's done it.



Most guys I've seen... make about half a night (if they are lucky, strong and in shape) unhooking with one arm/hand... after that it's a 2 arm event.



Josh

 

[TurboTweaker]

i have spent many a night hooking and unhooking the sled up here. trucks arent bad unless you get the guy with too small of a clevis and the hook wont go in or get wedged in and you gotta kick it and beat on it to get it out. i build pulling hitchs for my self and others, as well as for the tractors i build. And i make damn sure they are 3. 5" and no smaller. about the 75 trucks in a night and getting tired... ... ... in my prime i could do it and im still in pretty good shape it it sucks. you have no idea how heavy that chain and hook gets.



The Fat Kid

Andy

 

[bgilbert]

How bout some pics of the good, bad and ugly pulling hitches?

 

[Sled Puller]

Here is a good one. It slides in all the way to the plate, and even though the bumper is cut out, it still is a hair behind it.

To take full advanatage of the rules, it could be moved ahead another 6".

I don't have any other pictures, feel free to post them!

 

[cjohnson]

Good stuff Sled. I imagine there will always be some "interpretation" when it comes to pulling hitches. Seems to be a constant source of discussion.



Craig

 

[Got Smoke?]

Here is a good one. It slides in all the way to the plate, and even though the bumper is cut out, it still is a hair behind it.

To take full advanatage of the rules, it could be moved ahead another 6".

I don't have any other pictures, feel free to post them!

Hey sleddy who made yours?

 

[MMiller]

Here are some pics of the hitch I use in Southern Ia street truck pulls. The way *I* interpret the rules this hitch is not really legal for DHRA because it does not go into a reciever, and its not level to the ground, but this should give some good ideas on what to do with the clevis layed flat. I used a Cat bolt and nut the diameter of the clevis holes, tightened it and then my brother welded the clevis to the solid square stock. The solid square stock was welded into the square tube. Way heavier then I will even need, but I don't want the hitch breaking to be the reason for a failed pull. It could be a little shorter, a little cleaner. It is adjustable, behind the cab I have another crossmember welded in the truck with a pin the hitch pivots on for adjustment. Opinions are welcome.

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Michael

 

[Sled Puller]

Yes, that is wayyy illegal!!

However, like you said, that is what Iw as trying to describe what to do with a shackle.



Mark, that basic idea of that hitch came from Johnboy's Ford, but the design was finnessed by Sledpuller Specialties and Hilljack Engineering SouthWestern Pennsylvania division, and welded up at Hargus Creek Drilling Co's garage. :-laf

It started with a tractors drawbar, and an 1"-1/4" thick chunk of plate, burned out for the loop. There is about $75, in those two pieces, never mind the square stock, the gussets and time.