Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Diagnose This Noise :-)

[jeepullr]

Gonna start doing some checking on the CTD tomorrow. Wanted to get some ideas as for things to check. I'm pretty sure I poked a hole in the piston... but I want to check the "simple fixes" first before calling it dead.



The dealer pulled the codes, nothing came up. The oil looks pretty good and is not missing any.



Some of the symptoms: Sounds like it's "running on 5 cylinders", Smoke (white on start up) from tail pipe (was black when I shut it down in WV). Liquid seeping from all gaskets at the #5 cyl. (head to exhaust manifold, exhaust to turbo, turbo to exhaust brake), can't tell if it's fuel (deisel or grease) or oil. Hard start (cranks for a long time, and I usually have to give it a little fuel pedal).



I'll see if there is any air push from the oil fill cap or the lower burp tube when running.

I'll check the fuel filters.

I'll pull the valve cover on the #5 cyl.



Any other thoughts on what to check before I pull the motor out?



Truck info; 1996 Dodge CTD 12v 167K miles, ~2000 miles on grease conversion. Was hauling the YJ through WV and had the pyro up in the 900-950 range several times with down hill cools only getting it to the 700 range before we had to start going back up... Pyro is just after the Jakebrake at the down pipe.



More of the story on a local board

 

[JoshPeters]

It sounds to me like you have something else wrong. Your EGTs weren't even close to the danger range, unless that's After the turbo temps, then you were getting up there. I'd say find out which cylinder is dead. Crack lines one at a time like you would a gasser with spark plug boots. Then I'd pull that injector. Take a good look at it.



When I poped one of my headgaskets I had a "miss" that was when the gasket blew between cylinders.



JP

 

[jeepullr]

My pyro is just past my E-brake... so 6 inches post turbo. So it was hot.



What I've check so far today:



Took all the grease out of the system, pulled fuel filter, primed new one with dino-diesel, pumped up the lifter pump. I can hear a "squishing" noise, after 10-15 pumps, down near it... but can't find a leak of air or fuel... will continue to search there later. Got the truck running, cracked the fitting on each injector, engine would loose it's cadence when each was opened, even # 5.



There is almost no air coming out the bottom puke tube. There is some smoke from the oil filler neck, but not much air movement. It won't build pressure on my hand.



Has white smoke, though not much from tail pipe, more than I've had before.



The motor sounds "louder" than it has before with the hood up... but that may be me getting used to Jon's 24v.



Gonna try to hook up my compression tester to the injector port on 5... If I can find a way to make the injector puller tool.



Any other thoughts?

 

[Forrest]

fyi ... When I had the HX35, pryo post turbo past the brake just like yours, I thought I was safe in the 900 to 950 range @ 30 to 32psi. In prep for the HX40, I moved the pyro to the manifold. Same psi was 1400+ :--)

 

[Todd T]

I'd pull the head first and see if you've just blown a head gasket. Any oil in the water or pressure building in the cooling system?

 

[jeepullr]

No oil in water, no water in oil.



Anybody have the "build your own injector puller" thread bookmarked? Search isn't helping me find it.

 

[bavrit]

My buddy just had the same exact thing happen in his truck when running grease. Turned out to be a lot of water in the grease. Good luck

 

[JoshPeters]

Here's what I do... .

I take the nuts off. LIGHTLY clamp a vicegrips to the injector body, use a sutable prying device. I have "ladyfinger" pry bars that have a 90*bend at the end that work perfect. A regular pry bar against the exhaust manifold works well too.



Other guys take a Lug nut and a small piece of pipe. Place the pipe against the head and tighen down the lug nut.



JP

 

[jeepullr]

Retraction: Went and checked all the injectors again... the motor makes no noticeable change in sound or vibration when I loosen the fitting on the #5 injector.



Figured out how to pull the injector... that's next.



I'm filtering my grease 3 times on the truck, once through a heated Racor filter with water bowl, through an auxillary fuel filter (wix) with water bowl and through the regular filter on the motor. I also am good about letting the grease sit heated for about 2 weeks before I use it. Doesn't mean I don't have water... Just a low probability.

 

[jeepullr]

Hmmmnnn... . Wonder if this might be part of the problem...



#ad

 

[jeepullr]

Couldn't find enough fittings to get my compression tester to fit in the injector hole. Stuck my fingers in the #4 and #5 holes... felt about the same pressure for several engine revolutions... I'll be ordering some new injectors and starting from there... I guess some stage 4's are in the near future.

 

[JoshPeters]

Hmmmnnn... . Wonder if this might be part of the problem...



#ad

Can't see it without logging in...



can you attach it here too?



Thanx

JP

 

[jeepullr]

Sorry, attached in another thread too:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=59870&stc=1

 

[jeepullr]

Just pulled the compression:

From front of engine

1. 500

2. 480

3. 490

4. 490

5. 510

6. 490

 

[Todd T]

quit fooling around and just pull the head already! LOL



Were those pictures of the injectors, your injectors?

 

[jeepullr]

Yup, right out of the head.

 

[Dieseldemon]

The Veg oil will build a ball of carbon on the end of the inj and disrupt the spray pattern then the pistons start to burn around the cup I just had one with 20,000 miles that had 3 pistons with scored cyl that burned Veg oil it also had a deposit of thick black grease about 1/2" thick all thru the engine and plugged the oil holes in the rocker stands and scored the rocker shafts & rocker arms.