Did I screw up? (my brakes)

[GAmes]

After 107,000 miles I replaced my front brake pads today, for the first time, and also flushed the fluid with new dot 4. I flushed the system without the engine running. Took it for a test drive and the pedal is spongy and depresses farther than it used to. Should I have bled the system powered up and is there a fix? I am going to bleed it again tomorrow with the engine running but I'm concerned I may have damaged a component. Have to pull the boat to Lake Fork on thursday so time is critical.

 

[illflem]

I hope you just have air in the system but if you forced the brake piston back to remove/install pads without opening the individual caliper bleed screws the master cylinder could have been damaged. This is one point on our truck's brakes that varies from most other vehicles and can get you. I've never had to bleed with the engine running.

 

[Snow man]

I you didnt turn,or replace the rotors,the pedal will be a little spongy from that too,that should go away in a few hundred miles,as the pads seat in,and wear to the imferfections of the rotor. If you have air in the sytem,you willl have a real soft pedal,and possibly no brakes,or very little. Get a helper to pump the pedal while you bleed all 4 wheels out.

 

[lschultz]

You might email Sam -- email address removed -- he has a brake/ac shop. He has answered questions on here before about brakes. I just ordered front pads for my truck(don't need them yet)and my sons(probably over 100000 now). We might put his on this weekend. Sounds like you got air in the system.



Thats Sam Peterson

Rapid Brake Service

Olympia,Wa

360 357-4958

 

[GAmes]

Thanks ya'll

Apparantly I had some air in the lines or maybe bleeding with the engine running works better. I was looking for assurance that I hadn't screwed anything up by operating them without any vacuum. I had read the post prior to starting this job about opening the caliper bleed screw before pushing the piston back in. I've never done it on any other vehicle, but I think it's a good idea.



So thanks again.



A couple of notes. I did have the rotors turned and when I inspected the bearings there was a hint of copper color. The outer was made in Mex and there was no data on the inner. I bought new Timkens along with races (I always change them both). Wouldn't you know the races were Timken, and were not the least bit worn. Why couldn't DC have spent a couple extra bucks and given us Timken bearings too?



The other thing is I was judging wear by watching the outer puck on the drivers side (easy to see) and it was down to about 1/8 inch. Turns out the other three pucks were thicker, especially the inner ones, at least a quarter inch left. Over half my mileage is towing 10,000 lbs or more. That e-brake is a solid investment.

 

[Piersol]

help with that bleeder screw

I had to replace the pads in my 2500 last year and opened the bleeder screw. When I went to push the piston back in nothing came out the bleeder screw. So I said "the *ell with it" and pushed it back in like I have done on every car I have had since 1982. What did I do wrong? When you open the screw shouldn't fluid come out the screw as if you were bleeding the brakes?

 

[CumminsPower98]

bleen screw

Piersol, your bleed screw is probably plugged with dirt and or rust if you had it open while compressing the caliper piston and nothing came out. Take it clear out next time and check it.

 

[GAmes]

Both of my bleeder valves were clogged. Real easy to clean, just took them all the way out, ran a piece of small diameter wire thru them, screwed em back in, tightened down the clamp and let the fluid flush them out.

 

[Piersol]

thanks guys

eom

 

[Deezul1]

Gary if you need some help let me know.

 

[Rammin]

GAmes



YOu don't needs to run the engine to bleed the brakes. If you have a gasser you have a vacuum brake booster, diesel trucks have a hydraulic brake booster. These only assist to lessen pedal

pressure when the brakes are applyed. if you bleed the wheel cylinders, starting with the right rear, left rear right front, left front last. make sure you get all air out . Air is about the most common problem when you have a spongy pedal. if that dosent work you may have a under speck drums or a bad brake hose.

 

[me4osu]

Thanks Illflem!!

I just bought a set of front pucks for my rig and will install tonight. I just decided to poke around about brakes and opened this post.

I am real glad you posted that info about forcing the caliper. I have done that on every Furd I have owned, and I was going to do that tonight. Thanks for keeping me from thrashing the master cylinder!!

 

[Snow man]

I have never seen a master cylinder blown out by pushing back the fluid,the resivour is directly open to the brake lines when the pedal is not applied,unless the caliper was forced in quickly,it isnt likely you will damage it,I bet I've replaced 1000 sets of pads in the last 15 yrs,not once,did i blow out a master,I use a C clamp or a tool made for retracting them,and slowly turn them in. If you have 4 wheel ABS then you defintely should not push fluid back,this can damage the ABS unit. This goes for any ABS equipped vehicle.

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

I always put a prybar against the old pad, loosen the bleeder screw and tighten the screw before letting the pressure off. They open right up. When I'm done I top oof the master cylinder w/fluid. A little messy but I never have to bleed them.

 

[Speedo]

Bleeders

The problem that I have seen from pushing the

pistons back in without opening the bleed screws is that most of the break down in brake fluid

happens in the calipers and wheel cylinders

because of the proximity to heat. If you push

the pistons back in without opening the bleeders

you can push quite a bit of crud back into the

master cylinder. While you may not cause the

master cylinder to fail at that instant you will

cause a premature failure.



Gus