dieing after start....again

[DBCooper]

This one is weird. About once every two months my truck will die after starting and running for about 5 seconds. It doesn't have to be cold to do this either. As a matter of fact, sometimes it's harder to start if it's warm or hot. So, I bought some fuel line for the return (if it's not that it should be replaced anyways) and found that the factory lines are attached to the metal with some sort of sleeve. Do I cut the sleeve, or is there some slick trick to undo the line? The lines feel fine, not soft or anything, so I kinda don't think that this is the problem, but it's a start. The overflow is going in soon also. This problem happens so seldom that it is hard to trace down. Thanks for any help

Dan.

 

[DieselB59]

Don't cut it!!! They're clamped. It's tough to get at, but you'll need a 6mm and 7mm socket because they are two sizes at the different ends.

 

[DBCooper]

Maybe I'm looking at the wrong thing here, but I don't think so. The lines go from the frame to the area just below the fuel filter and I don't see any clamps whatsoever. They go from metal to a thin liner looking thingy and then the hose just starts. I've seen just about every way to connect a hose to a hard line, but not this one. If there is a clamp, I certainly don't see any way to loosen it. Any ideas? Maybe 98s have some weird deal? I dunno. Thanks. Oh, I meant to just cut the rubber parts, not the metal.

 

[DieselB59]

You're gonna want to (from above) feel in between the injection pump and the fuel filter, along the cylinder head, way up in there. You'll find the rubber return line. It clamps to a steel line that goes to the overflow at that point. Remove it, you may have to slit it. Then, pull it beyond the fuel filter towards the back of the head. It is useful to remove the lifting eye on the back of the head to get hand room. Use a 15mm socket to remove it. Since you disconnected the line from up front, you can now pull it through and see that it's gonna be tough to reach, but do-able. Disconnect it there at the firewall and look at it. As you bend it, it'll probably look cracked and porous. If so, there's your starting problem.

 

[DBCooper]

Thanks Chris. I'll take a crack at it tomorrow. I didn't follow the line that far up. Does anyone know why the return line goes bad and not the feed line?

 

[Steve Campbell]

I know I am out of bounds here(wrong forum), but isn't the return line closer to the block for a short length? The heat from the engine deterorating the rubber would be the culprit in that case. I am probably wrong as usual.

 

[Darel]

DB,

My truck does this sometimes, too. On mine, it's not the fuel return line. I checked it and it looked OK so I had it checked out by my local Cummins guy and he backed me up. I really don't know what causes it, but because it happens so seldom like you said, I think it's fuel-related. Maybe for some reason it decided to gel or go bad while sitting in the injection pump, I don't know. Last week was the worst instance, I had a tough time starting it, then drove about 100 yards and it died in the middle of the intersection in front of my house. Took about 15 minutes to get it started again.

Darel

 

[Steve Campbell]

Could this be the result of a faulty valve in the return line banjo bolt?

 

[DieselB59]

The line goes bad because it's not a cummins part. When you remove it, if it is visible, it says it's for use on gas. The diesel eats the line from the inside out because the dodge boys found it was cheaper to use junk hose than spend on quality diesel specific fuel line. Heat has no effect on it. Mine's been in now for five years, and both times I had the head off, I looked at it, saw it was perfect, smiled at the Mercedes Benz star on it, and said goodbye to it once again.