diff fluid

[Kurt Henzler]

has anyone tried to vacume out the diff oil for lube change? i have a vucume pump that is used for lawnmower repair that works really well. with a hot engine and oil it gets all the oil from the enine with no spills or mess. it would really same the time would not have to seal the diff covers again. just wonder if i woudl get all the oil. i guess i could measure what i get out. what do you think?

 

[Rosco]

Personally, I would pull the cover to drain it for three reasons.



1. The gasket is reusable so that simplify's matters.

2. By pulling the cover you drain ALL the fluid.

3. You get all the metal "wear in" material out and you can use a clean rag to wipe inside the pumkin.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Pull it

I did mine last night and pulled the cover. Piece of cake! Don't bother with the suckin' machine, do it right and pull the cover like Rosco said. The suction pump did come in handy to pull the fluid out of the little reservoir in the bottom that doesn't drain.



There was some break-in debris in mine and the fluid was dark gray and very contaminated at 9850 miles. I used brake parts cleaner to hose down the innards and it washed a lot of residue buildup on the internal parts.



Vaughn

 

[Ladders]

Lets not have an oil war.



Just wondering (& trying not 2 get lost) what everyone is using for the refill. Havent found any of the "cheap" oils for the trans/rear yet & want to get the oils ready for the changes. The trans is gonna get the filter added and the rear is going to get the Mag cover. Also need approximate fill amounts. ATT I will probably use Amsoil since I cant find the others (did find Mobile 1 in a sync but not sure if its approved, and one other brand - think it was Penn's but it says on the bottle "use for topping off limited slip" (may not be exact wording,) so not sure if its an "Approved" fill.



SOTSU!!

\\BF//

 

[swampfox]

I did mine a few weeks ago. Used a hand operated suction pump. The fluid was dark but did not appear to have any junk in it. I replaced the fluid with Royal Purple 75W-140. It cost me $7. 99 a quart. The rear diff. on mine holds 10. 1 pints. I put in 10. 0 pints. Fill to the edge of drain plug. I did not need to add any friction modifer. Changing the fluid with a suction pump is easier than than changing oil and filter. I also did the front differental the same way. If you take it to the dealer they will change the fluids with a suction pump.

 

[adsharpe]

RE: gear lube '03 3500 DRW. Manual says GL-5 synthetic 75W90. The Mopar fluid spec'd by AA isn't stocked by my local "dealers". I've found Shell Spirex S (synthetic) 75w90 GL-5 ( approved

for extended changes in Eaton, Roadranger and Meritor products) in 5 gallon pail for $90. plus tax. If the gear lube in question in not approved for extended changes in real trucks, why would you want to use it in your truck? My employer uses75W90 synthetic Tegra(Chevron) in a fleet of 2000 large trucks. However, the local distributor doesn't stock it. The shell distributor has his product in stock, so Shell it is. If you are towing, use an oil rated for work. (PLEASE: no flames about yours is better, etc. If it doesn't have certification for extended changes from Eaton,Roadranger, Meritor, Dana, etc. , don't take it out on me. ) If your truck is in warranty, change at the DC specified intervals NO MATTER WHAT gear lube you use.



Note: I am changing the rear lube at 1900 miles cause the dealer topped it off when I couldn't find any fluid. They used 2 qts of non-synthetic and added a friction modifier. Would have been ok for Dana rear, but wrong for AA. "Hey, we just sell 'em, fix it yourself!"

 

[DLeno]

Originally posted by adsharpe

Note: I am changing the rear lube at 1900 miles cause the dealer topped it off when I couldn't find any fluid. They used 2 qts of non-synthetic and added a friction modifier. Would have been ok for Dana rear, but wrong for AA. "Hey, we just sell 'em, fix it yourself!"

I'd be sticking to that dealer like fly paper until they replace your axles. Just ask American Axle what they think of a synthetic/non-synthetic blend and if they would support such an axle under their own warranty relathionship with DC. Then ask AA about the use of friction modifier (a no-no for the AA axles) and if they would take an axle in from DC under warranty that contained it. Then ask them how they feel about the combination of friction modifier AND the wrong lube in there and if they will take responsibility for premature failure of the axle with such a lubricant mixture.



You've got a nasty nasty nasty brew in there, and your axle life has been compromized. don't accept "its under warranty if it fails" either. you bought a new truck and expect to enjoy the life expectancy of a new axle, and DC took that away from you with their own field service procedures. DC should take the liability for that, not you.

 

[adsharpe]

DC has opened a "file" on the incident. This "5-star" dealer couldn't even clean up the truck when it was delivered. The saleman washed most of it, I finished the roof. MS is 3rd world, unnerstan? I am not a DC fan, I buy Cummins. I've have made Wolfgang Bernhard quite aware of that fact. DC has ripped off (along with Goodyear) the '03 dually buyers big time with the wheel size/ tire availability issue. Don't worry about the Asians, DC owns everything! Anyway, my wifes' new ride won't be a DC product. They have ruined Jeep and Chrysler will go bellyup. Just give DC time. Incidentally, I received a non-commital reply from AA as to damage from the stuff. Course, I didn't tell him the exact friction modifier. AA has a deal with DC and they aren't going to mess that up. Texaco has a deal too as the NV5600 uses Texaco MTX but they supply the Mopar fluid. Just try to buy MTX. Ain't nobody gonna tell you that Pennsoil Synchomesh is a direct Mopar part number replacement.

 

[Ladders]

Mobil 1 in trans? & rear

Whell, after doing a little research, looks like the Mobil1 COULD BE used in both trans & rear. Any thoughts?



From Mobil site:

Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant is an Indy 500-certified, multipurpose gear oil. It is manufactured from synthesized hydrocarbon base oils and a specially designed extreme- pressure, limited-slip, sulfur-phosphorus additive package.



Also:

Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant is suitable for all automotive applications where lubricants meeting API Service GL-5, are recommended. It can also be used in rear axles where an API Service GL-4 lubricant is recommended. It should not be used in any transmissions requiring an engine oil or automatic transmission fluid, or GL-4 performance level.





Site is:



http://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/Mo...951b10d046e0bafd852567ba0050ec5f?OpenDocument



SOTSU!!

\\BF//

 

[adsharpe]

I just picked up several qts. of Pennzoil Synchromesh which lists the appropriate Mopar part No. on the bottle. Found it at AutoZone. It is also available in 5-gl pails from oil-store.com. Replaces the Mopar part no. for NV5600. Probably could find Texaco MTX from Gear builder/transmission supplier but might be in pails. The Mopar/TexacoMTX/Pennzoil are not synthetic. A synthetic needs to be compatible with any yellow metals in the transmission.



Mobil1 is not totally synthetic as the carrier is natural (whatever that is). See note on bottle. Additionally, the TracRite GT in the AA doesn't require an additive or friction modifier as in Mobil1. Don't know if it would hurt things but don't need it. Generally, the EP additives I read are the fly in the ointment with yellow metals.



The whole deal is the AA thing. What was wrong with Dana?



I'm tired of the whole stupid rigamarole. Every lubricant manufacturer has their thing going so I've picked mine and that's it. Shell Spirax S 75W90 and Pennzoil Synchomesh. Delo for the Cummins.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Originally posted by adsharpe

The whole deal is the AA thing. What was wrong with Dana?

I'm tired of the whole stupid rigamarole. Every lubricant manufacturer has their thing going so I've picked mine and that's it. Shell Spirax S 75W90 and Pennzoil Synchomesh. Delo for the Cummins.

For one thing a limited slip that works well, unlike the weakling Dana in my 2001.



Redline MTL is a great choice for the NV5600 if you wanted another option there. I remember the transmission lube was overblown for the NV5600 like is happening with the AAM axles now. After several ventured out and tried other lubes with great results people relaxed a bit on the issue. I think the same will be the case with the AAM axles. Any quality synthetic gear lube should work just fine. I'm taking my chances with Amsoil Series 2000 which supposedly has friction modifier but I'm not worrying about it.



Vaughn

 

[Ladders]

After going to the local store (Autozone, Pep, Chkrs, etc) the only oil I found was the Valvoline Syncpower item #975 (AND its in the warehouse - far away). All other oils are dino that they have. No one would order nor do they care to try to get a synthetic.



Looks like its gonna be Amsoil or dealer (not @ $$$$).....



SOTSU!!

\\BF//