Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) DIff oil change question

[JCyrbok]

On a front and/or rear differential oil change, when putting the covers back on with the RTV on them, what is the easiest/best way to keep from smearing the RTV all over the cover and case and therefore messing up the seal possibly? How thick/sticky is the RTV ( first change coming up)? Once its on the cover will it drip or slip off of the cover when putting the cover back in place to torque the bolts back?



Thanks in advance,



J-



PS I'm going to Amsoil series 2000 75w90. They say that limited slip additive is not needed, ANyone use this without the additive?

How will I know if I need the additive, after If driven with the Amsoil only? Noise etc? Will this cause damage?

 

[raf2000]

RTV will not drip off unless you use WAY to much and sling it. Put 2 bolts in the cover as you re-install it. One at opposite corners and when you start the bolts it will not slip around. RTV is very forgiving for the first 20 minutes or so depending on temperature. A little goes a long way also...

 

[DSiemens]

You will be able to tell if you need limited slip additive only after you have a test drive. If you have "grabbing/chatter" when turning corners, then add LSA. Most do not require LSA when using Amsoil.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I'm using the Amsoil 75/140 stuff - no additive so far, and no indication any is needed...

 

[JCyrbok]

thanks

thanks guys youv'e ansewered all my questions once again!





J-

 

[Pit Bull]

Did you ever think about sucking it out? I did this on my 2000. Got 98% of the fluid out and then filled it up with Mobil synthetic 75W90. Did front and rear in 1 hour I know it might not be as perfect as taking the cover off but it was cheap and fast and had to be better than not doing it at all.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

While I had my rear cover off, I drilled and tapped it for a drain plug - won't be pulling the cover off any more... .



There's no separate magnet down inside anyway, so no real reason to pull the cover if ya don't hafta...

 

[JCyrbok]

drain plug

Gary what size plug did u get, where did u get it, what size tap ETC. This is something that I would like to do, seem like it would make it much easier and keep me more likely to keep up on my none engine related maintance.



J-

 

[FDNYMOPARGUY]

As far as getting the fluids out, a small vaccuum pump works great. I got one from Northern Hydrolics. It's marketed as a one person brake bleeder, but is basically just a hand operated vaccuum pump with a 1 pint catch container. No sense in disturbing the factory seal if it isn't leaking. The pump works great for changing the power steering fliud too. And best of all, my wife doesn't yell at me for taking her turkey baster anymore.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I used a 1/4" pipe plug, tapped at lowest point in cover - did the same on my '91 - worked great for the 11 years I owned it - new one is fine, no leaks, and the plug size might take a bit longer to drain, but I'm retired and have more time than money...

 

[jrobinson2]

Is anybody running 75w90 amsoil synthetic w/o the limited slip additive? I've seen many running 75w140 w/o but dont remember any 75w90 posts. My "other" brand 75w90 synthetic needed 1/2 bottle to stop the chatter.



Jared

 

[24V-DSL]

Jared....

I just changed my rear diff. at 50K and used Amsoil 75-90 without needing any additive. When I put my Mag-hytec on at ~2. 5K I used the same Amsoil, and didn't need the additive then, either.



First time you change with a Mag-hytec as compared to stock, you'll quickly forget what it cost. Up to then, it's just the "cool" factor and the dip-stick check when you feel like it. Have all three of their offerings, and they are among my favorite "bombs".

 

[PZicha]

I'm using 75-90 and nothing so far as for as chatter goes

 

[jrobinson2]

Thanks for the responses guys, I think it really says something about the amsoil if it doesnt need the LSA.



Jared