Off Roading Differential Lockers

[cmckinney]

Anyone have lockers installed on their Ram? Was looking around and saw lockers for the Dana 60 but never the Dana 70. I assume that they use the same size locker. Anyone know?



-CM

 

[CUMINNTSTRKN]

it's not that easy. you have a dana 80 hybrid in your truck, this makes your choices a little tougher. you have a normal dana 60 upfront. if you would have got the auto you would have got the 70. i have arb lockers front and rear in my truck.



jim

 

[cmckinney]

What to do?

So I am out of luck for a rear locker? This would be a very sad thing for me seeing as I believe that I do not have LSD. Ugg.



Does ARB not make one for the Dana 80?



-CM

 

[tarussell]

See my reply to" Axle/Diff info,Powr-Lok?" in the 24v drivetrain column. It explains how you can get a Detroit Locker for a Dana 80. I have a lot of info on the H. D. 70's and 80 model axles if you need it.



I hope this helps.....

 

[cmckinney]

Detroit is a good locker but I'd prefer to be able to run an open diff when on the Hwy and be able to lock them out when I need it. ARB or the OX locker looked really nice.



-CM

 

[frankram]

I had ARB air lockers on my Dodge. LOVE them. Installed by

Clemson 4 Wheel Drive in Clemson, S. C. WEB Page

clemson4wheel drive.

 

[Bob Horrell]

When I bought my locker for my dana 80 several years ago, ARB did not make one to fit the 80 and said they didn't expect to anytime in the near future. Don't know if that is still the case. The Detroit Locker was the best available at that time. They are much improved over the older ones. Not near as noisy and seem to release better than the old ones when cornering. If you want traction they are hard to beat, but you have to be careful on ice.

 

[HC]

ARB does now make a locker for the Dana 80 as found in the 2001 3/4 ton model; I've got one. At the time I got mine, they did not have one with the right number of splines for my front Dana 60, but now they have that too; I just haven't gotten that yet.

 

[Cousin Billy]

Rear Lockers

If you're looking at the available rear lockers out there, another one to consider is a "No-Slip" by Powertrax. This is a very much improved version of their proven Lock Right. If you are not familar with their products, the locker unit fits into the existing differential case. The only glitch on our Dana 80's is that the ring gear must be removed to pull out the cross shaft. So, you gotta pull the carrier out, which is no big deal at all. Especially compared to setting up a whole new unit.

I recently put one in my 96 2500, probably about a two to three hour job start to finish. BUT, driving a locker is definitely different than a limited slip. they do make a little popping noise when they load and unload. Not a bad thing, you just know it's there.

When I bought mine, it took a LOT of phone calls to find a place with some in stock. The best place and also the cheapest is Reider Racing in Michigan. Under $500 Fed Ex delivered in two days. Ask for Barney, outstanding customer service AND knowledge, not just a phone answering salesman.

More info at Powertrax.com or ReiderRacing.com

 

[Diesel_Junkie]

Detriot lockers work much better than most others I have driven,



Plus I find a detriot a pleasure to drive on the street once you get a hang of it. Dry, wet, or icy, once you know how to use a detriot, it will give you more traction in all sittuations. Plus if you do get into a little fishtail with a locker, you can keep the go juice pinned and the action of the locker will actually straighten you out.



For the front I would recomend an ARB, or one of the new ox lockers, a locked front makes steering a problem. ALso a limited or a non switchable locker in the front of any modern chrysler solid axle will cause problem with the 4 wheel drive disengagement. It will make the entire drivetrain spin full time, negating the purpose of the disconnect.

 

[rspinks]

My experience

DJ sounds like you like your detroit, I had one in my '94 gas 2500 and now I'm back to a factory LSD in my 2001. I miss the detroit for the positive traction when you really need it, but it had some characteristics on my reg. cab LWB 5spd truck that I didn't particularly like:



1. On slick roads I noticed a real trend towards pushing the front end because both rear wheels drive forward with no differentiation. For example, hypothetically if you were driving rally-style on snow-covered backroads, the trend under power is to push really bad, unless you really punched the throttle to spin both tires and tighten the line. Like you say you get used to this and learn to drive with it.



2. On dry pavement regardless of how even the rear tire pressures were, my locker would bind up sometimes and release with a bang, usually when shifting into 3rd in a straight line after turning sharp onto the road. I mean loud head-turning bang and steering wheel correction required to stay in my lane. Had to be hard on the axle shafts.



3. Parking lot convulsions - idling around parking lots, turning sharp in 1st or 2nd gear with neutral throttle would send the truck into lurching episodes that could only be cured by stabbing the clutch and re-engaging.



Anyways, even with the above nuisances the off-road and deep-snow traction was awesome and I may end putting one in the new truck as well. It definitely gives your truck it's own driving personality .

 

[Dave MacArthur]

Why not use a locker up front as well? You could use something like the 2 wheel drive low switch or the 4x4 Posi-Lok cable (http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/). That way you could shift the transfer case into 4x4 and keep the CAD disconnected for driving when it's wet/icy/snowy (3 wheel drive). You could then connect the CAD when needed for maximum traction situations. That way you would have good control around corners and not crab sideways when off camber. I know that in the old days (80's) you could order 4x4 trucks with at least limited slip in the front. Any reason not to do this?



Thanks for any info,



Dave.

 

[tarussell]

Dave MacAurther---I think that would be great but I wonder if the sliding coupler for the axle shafts could take the strain of engaging under tension. I supose the easiest way around this is to get one of the 2002 front axles that don't have the C. A. D. system on it.



I would really like to put an after market front axle assy. in my truck but I don't know how to retain the A. B. S. exciter ring in the hub's. If anyone has ANY info on how to deal with the A. B. S. ring and sensor's PLEASE post it.



I know this reply kind of got off the original train of thought but I think that Dave MacAurther is on to some good questions and I hope that some of the folks in the off-road section might be able to help.

I like the convenience of the C. A. D. system but I sure don't trust it with a A. R. B. or something simular up front. I would much rather deal with locking hubs and have a real diff. up front w/ some 1. 5" 35 splined axles like they should be. Just my $. 02... .....

 

[Okie-Go]

I have the loc-right locker from Power ttrax in my 01 2500. I have the Dana 80.