Dimmer switch gets real HOT!!!!

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On a long trip I reached down to adjust the light dimmer switch and noticed that the plate around the switch was HOT. Uncomfortably hot. I've had the dash off and seen the back of the unit and was surprised at the size!

I always thought that a dimmer was just a pot switch? Does this have anything to do with the new fancy wiring/gounding stuff?

Is this normal or to be expected or should I high tail it to the dealer tomorrow? #ad


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2001. 5 2500 SLT+, QC/LB 4x4, ETH, 6spd, 3:54 LSD, camper/tow equip. , NV241HD, Bright Silver, Snug Top, Ispro w/3 pod pillar w/tweeter, Pyro, Boost & Mag Hytec cover w/temp guage

 

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Howdy,

Mine gets hotter than I would like, but so far it hasn't started a fire or melted the dash or wiring, so I guess it's working as intended. It will surprise you after being on for a few hours, especially if you have the dash dimmed way down.

My wife had a 2k Durango with the same switch in it and the switch in her truck gets hot too...

Like I said, I don't like having what feels like allot of heat in and around all that plastic, but so far it doesn't appear to be a problem.

Hope this helps,
Mike

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'99 QC 2500 SLT Driftwood 2wd SB 24v Auto 3. 55 LSD ISSPRO pyrometer

 

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I never noticed the switch being hot/very warm until I installed the fog light kit and replaced the switch assy. This may be a coincidence but, it would be interesting to know if one or the other has something to do with it.

Do you have fog lights?


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<font color=forestgreen>2000</font> DODGE <font color=forestgreen>RAM</font>, <font color=forestgreen>2500 HD</font>, 4x4 SLT, Reg. Cab, <font color=forestgreen>Forest Green</font>, Agate interior, Cummins ISB, Auto, Shift-on-the-Fly (241HD), 4. 10 Anti-slip Rear, 4-Wheel Anti-Lock, Trailer Tow Group, Camper Group, Michelin; DC: Fog Lights Kit, Tow Rings, Under rail bedliner, VentVisors, Mud Flaps, & Mats.
<font color=forestgreen>After-market</font>: K40, Viperw/AutoStart, Clarion 6 Disk CD w/remote, UnidenCB w/Francis antenna, Draw-Tite Activator II, Alpex 255TC2C Air Horns, Painless Wiring, HOWES, Liquid Glass #ad

 

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Mine does not have the fog lites, my wife's Durango does. If I am driving the Durango I always run the fog lites.

My brother-in-law has a 2k 3500 w/ the fog lights. I'll see him this weekend and ask him about his light switch. I'll let you guys know what he says. The inlaws also own a 99 Durango and 01 Dakota that all appear to have the same headlight switch. I'll ask about those as well.

Later,
Mike

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'99 QC 2500 SLT Driftwood 2wd SB 24v Auto 3. 55 LSD ISSPRO pyrometer

 

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Mike, I know that the switch doesnt like to draw a ton of amps. If you have a trailer with a *fair amount* of lights, you WILL lose your headlight switch. I had my trailer lights wired to a separate toggle switch. This also allows you to 'flash' your lights at the truck you just passed, without messing with your headlights!

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97 2500 CC 4x4 3. 54 5spd, #12 plate, 4inch open exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, PrimeLoc, Red Tops

 

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I run mine with the fog lights and the switch gets very warm. No fires yet. #ad


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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, HO Cummins (ETH), 6-Speed (DEE), SLT+, 3. 54 LSD, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Heated Leather, Sliding Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine oil temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, Tork Lift camper tie-downs, Mag-Hytec, Mopar Tow Hooks, AND functional Halo light!
Bigfoot 3000 10. 11 Slide-in Camper.

 

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Mine is a '99 3500 w/factory fog lights. The switch does get warm to hot with or without the fog lights on. I wired to the painless wiring system for my trailer lights due to the number of lights. Hopefully that will make the switch last beyond the warranty.

Question... Will the "Brite Box" have an affect on the switch when I install that?
Thanks!
Dave

 

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Headlight switches, especially those with built in dimmer switches have always gotten very hot. The dimmer or wheel as our Dodge's have is just controlling the voltage,up or down, bright or dim, acting as a big resistor. The lower the lights are turned down the hotter the switch will get. The more resistance you have, the hotter the switch will get. This heat is increased also by the number of lights you have.


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BCFAST,

You mentioned that the headlight switch will die if a trailer with allot of lights is attached to the truck. I take this to mean that the increased amp draw of the trailer lights causes the switch to burn out. For this to be the case the headlight switch would have to control the power to the trailer lights directly and not through some kind of relay. Please tell me that this is not the case!! If this is really how the truck is wired then I want to have a few words with the knuckle-head electrical engineer at DC who made such a stupid decision. #ad
I'm gonna have to have a look at my service manual when I get home.

Later,
Mike

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'99 QC 2500 SLT Driftwood 2wd SB 24v Auto 3. 55 LSD ISSPRO pyrometer

 

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The switch on my '99 got real hot also. Had it looked at and they replaced the switch with part number 56021675AD and haven't had the problem since. This was two years ago so you would think they would be using a better switch (there I go thinking again). You should take your rig in and have it checked - at least you'll have something on paper just in case.

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On my Y2K, the switch gets hotter the lower I turn the interior lights down too.

I have taken it to the dealer and was told that this is to be expected as the wheel that you turn to dim & turn on the dome/cab lights is nothing more than a simple resistor. The dimmer the lights the hotter the switch.

That was 10 months ago and I still am using the same switch and still dim my dash lights during long night time trips. I have not had any problems develop as of yet (knock knock). I do however turn the lights back up when I feel that it has gotten too uncomfortably hot. Not scientific I know, but it is just my rule of thumb.

Sorry that I don't have a fix, if nothing else this just reassures me that my truck is not all that unique.

Cheers,
Duke

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Y2K 2500, Auto, 4x4, QC, Short Box, Garnet Red, Westin Nerf Bars, K&N. Synthetic Lubes, Reese 15k Side-to-Side Piviot Hitch

1998 Sea Breeze 37 Ft Triple Slide 5th Wheel.

 

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The only heat I get is from turning down the dashboard lights. I have overwattage bulbs and fogs, and even when I run all of them I do not get a warm switch... . until I dim the interior bulbs.....

 

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As some of you have noted heat buildup when the dashlights are dimmed,this is normal. You are holding back voltage in the reostat from the lights. I just finished driving from Alaska to South Carolina with a slide in camper wired to the tail lights and my trailer is wired to my factory trailer plug in. We have had no problems so far,{8500 miles}. Keep the dash lights bright to keep the heat down.

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2K Dodge 3500,4x4,SLT,QC,PR4 Red,Auto Trans,354's,Posi,Trailer TowPack,BEEFED up Camper Pack,Factory Fogs,Rear Slider,Rancho 9000's,Rhino Spray In Liner,Smitty Built Nerf Bars,Alpine 60x4 Watt CD,Lance Cabover,BD Plug n Power,EGT Guage,And Enjoying The Ride.

 

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Mike, as Crazy noted... he hasnt had a problem with his *new-style* truck. My 95 was wired with the total amp draw thru the dash switch, as were the Generation I trucks. Those with the new dash may have a different system? An old buddy, whos in the trailer business, always carried one or two spare light switches in the glove box of his 93!!

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97 2500 CC 4x4 3. 54 5spd, #12 plate, 4inch open exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, PrimeLoc, Red Tops

 

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Thanks for all the input guys. Nice to know I'm not alone.

I do have factory fog lights as well as factory trailer wiring.

I have to test it more, but right now I'd guess that it is hotter when trailer in tow, but don't want to bet on it..... Need to test it more and factor in new info, and see my friendly dealer and add this to my minor gripe list.


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2001. 5 2500 SLT+, QC/LB 4x4, ETH, 6spd, 3:54 LSD, camper/tow equip. , NV241HD, Bright Silver, Snug Top, Ispro w/3 pod pillar w/tweeter, Pyro, Boost & Mag Hytec cover w/temp guage