dipricol Rail gauge. Issues?

[JasonCzerak]

Has anyone had any issues with this gauge mucking with the rail pressure and over all smoothness of the truck? My truck's been acting up. . First I thought it was the TST box, then It did it with the TST harness just on (box unpluged with by-pass, rail harness unpluged) and stock programming...



What would happen is that rail would drop under 5,000 and the idle would float around 500rpm... I took a guess here and pulled it from the harness and the motor idles quieter and the truck is so much smoother.



There's a huge story I could type up here with the different testing and combination.





Just wondering if anyone suspected that gauge for any issues?

 

[MMeier]

My gauge decides to read high all of a sudden, other times it will read low. Will read correctly if I kill power to it for an instant... (turning key to start while it's running). Does not seem to affect the way the truck runs though.

 

[JasonCzerak]

mine did that since day one. . I have it directly wired to a clean circuit with a kill switch on the dash to reset all gauge... just lately, the truck isn't running right.

 

[MMeier]

Jason, does the truck ever decide to idle around 1000-1200 RPM's all on it's own? And not the high idle feature either.

 

[RDyson]

I had problems with my gauge not reading sometimes and the engine acting up and even dying. When I pulled my gauge off, it ran great. I found that the gauge connectors were not seating fully with the harness connectors. I ziptied them tightly together and it has worked flawlessly since.



Randy

 

[CDonaldson]

I too had some minor issues, I noticed that I would get a fluctuation in the rail pressure about the same time I would have a roughness in idle. I could also see a minor amount of deviation in the RP gauge and my rpm's at highway speeds.



I did two things, first I applied some dielectric to the female side of the connectors, second I zip tied my connectors and made the more solid taking out any flexing at the connectors that might affect their contacts. That completely solved those issues.



Probably the most irritating issue I have is the lighting, the thumbscrew knob has very little linearity and it is not capable of an adjustment that syncs with our dimming capabilities. If It is set to it's highest range, it does not have good lighting when we dim down our dash lights. Hard to find a medium in the lighting adjustment.



CD

 

[JJPage]

Mine has worked flawlessly, (if that's a word), even the lighting is improved over my original Dipricols.

 

[JasonCzerak]

I may try to "hold the connections" together better. The connectors used are not the best. I might try to get a hold of TST and have them send me their ends with wires attached so I can soder (sp?) in the 2 lead wires to the gauge. They are of hte same factory make while the DiPricol ones are cheaper quality.

I also have that problem where the gauge gets outa-wack. . I have a gauge reset switch on the dash that takes care of that quickly.

As far as the light dimmer I have

[factory dimmer] ---> [ autometer led dimmer] --> Auto meter gagues

[factory dimmer] ---> [ autometer led dimmer] --> DiProcol Rail gague's dimmer

That works well for all of them as I do not like my guages super bright. I like to at night of the Autometer (Phantom II series) light up the numbers enough so the background isn't being lit, just like the factory dash.

I managed to work in the Rail gauge's dimming to be rather close.

Also, the fact that the DiProcol gauge's glass reflects light kinda sucks. Dawn and dusk driving it's rather annoying to try to read it.