DiProcol Analog Fuel Rail Pressure Guage

[JVolpe]

My new analog DiProcol Rail Pressure Gauge arrived yesterday. Will install on Saturday. I am excited, maybe this will help tune in the many stacks I have been trying lately. Most will drain the rail, or at least I think they do. Now maybe I can find out for sure. It is a nice kit.



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[DOWG]

I installed mine this evening. Just a short test drive, but pretty darn cool.

 

[MMeier]

Where'd you get it from and how hard is it to hook up?

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

Mine showed up as well. Just waiting on my gauge mount to show up from Geno's to install it. And then my MP8, to test it.

 

[Blu-meanie]

Here's mine

 

[ENafziger]

Wow! That looks great! I can't wait for mine to get here... and for time to install it!

 

[bzingre]

Where do you buy this gage and were there options for chrome and black bessel

 

[JVolpe]

PM DLeno member for information. Or go to http://www.dieselspecialtiesllc.com/.



Yes options for chrome or black bezel. Darn I don't have time to install mine until Saturday. Will be using the same dual steering column mount fp and rp in that mount.

 

[JVolpe]

Ok so 2 or 3 of you guys beat me to the install and any thunder associated with it. Now you can a least save me some time poking around with the volt meter. Where did you tap the lighting lead. Says to tap to instrument cluster lights, 12v not dimmed. I know where the instrument cluster lights dimmed goes, but have not looked for instrument cluster lights NOT DIMMED before.

 

[DLeno]

My only concern with DIMMED cluster is that this draws additional power from the vehicle dimmer circuitry which it was not designed to deliver. I just don't know the margin in whatever controls this circuit uses. Note that many have utilized dimmed source when installing gagues; its just a caution that I mention.



you can hook up the white wire to the same point as you hook into the red, fused, switched 12v source. This will "light" and "power" the gauge from the same switched 12v source. perfectly ok to do this.



The grey wire is "lighting ground" the good part about the design is that this ground is not part of the measurement signal -- it is only for lighting. For accuracy, signal ground is accomplished through the rail pressure harness. very cool!



thanks for everyone's feedback. if you have any comments on harnesses (like the length of wire) please let me know, so we can make a change on the next production run

 

[DLeno]

BTW, JVolpe -- 15K rail pressure, what conditions resulted in that pressure? In my 03-04, 15K means that the truck is either working pretty good or a pressure box is installed and this is close to cruising conditions.

 

[Bob4x4]

BTW, JVolpe -- 15K rail pressure, what conditions resulted in that pressure? In my 03-04, 15K means that the truck is either working pretty good or a pressure box is installed and this is close to cruising conditions.

It looks to me like the gauge is still in the packing foam



Bob

 

[JVolpe]

BTW, JVolpe -- 15K rail pressure, what conditions resulted in that pressure? In my 03-04, 15K means that the truck is either working pretty good or a pressure box is installed and this is close to cruising conditions.

Mine is still sitting on the desk in my office. I don't know what my actual pressure is going to look like, I am assuming with the EZ, TST, Smarty stack it may be over 15k for a short time at least



I just may be out in the dark tonight with flashlight. It will probably be a full six pack install in the dark :-laf

 

[Parks]

For hooking up the power to your gauge lights you will need to tap into a wire on the back of the headlight switch:

For 2003 trucks you can use the orange wire with white stripe (pin #3)

For 2004 to 2005 use the orange wire with brown stripe (pin #2)

I am pretty sure it's the same on the 2006 as for the 2005.

I would test the wires first with a test light to make sure they work ok.

There shouldn't be any problems with the light drawing too much power from the circuit.

Good luck. Let us know how you like the gauges.

 

[Matt S]

So now what's more important: rail pressure or fuel pressure? Do you need both? Where am I going to put another gauge?

 

[JVolpe]

Rail Pressure Gauge Installed

Well finally got the Rail Pressure guage installed. Not bad, it took me about an hour. But that was mainly spent trying figure out how to best manage all of the wires, tubes, controller cables going through the firewall. 5 gauge wiring and sensor cables and 3 controller boxes all fed through the same 1" hole drilled in the plug in the firewall. With all the Dodge wiring web and mine together kind of busy under the dash.



Well I do have one suggestion on the lighting/power wiring harness. The dimmer pod is too close to the gauge for me. It is not long enough to reach outside of the steering column pod and not be stretched against the pod. I had to wrap it up some inside the pod. This makes the sensor connector close to the edge of the pod. It works ok because I did tap the dimmer power for the light wire and don't need access to the gauge light dimmer pod.



Just went for a short test drive. I have disconnected the EZ, unloaded the downloader and set the TST 0/0. That is as close to stock as I can get.



Idle at 7k in nuetral. Idles about 7. 5k in drive stopped. In general the gauge mimics the movement of my tach almost exactly on throttle. The movement fluctuations going through the rpm range and shifts is in sync with the boost levels. This does make since ECM sees more air and matches with more fuel.



With stock settings I saw max of about 23. 5k on hard acceleration. With TST on 3/1 only saw about 23k on hard acceleration on my short test run. I will be plugging the EZ back in and doing more testing. Tomorrow I plan on being at the track again and will see what Smarty stacked will show and see if I can determine exactly at what setting point I drain the rail.



Very happy with the guage, THANKS DOUG for the R&D .



BTW after I connected the battery cables my dam trans temp gauge reads 150* now instead of 0. Don't know how that happened. I did have my console pulled off to get to other wiring, but should not have had any effect on those guages. The only wiring to that gauge is the lighting and it still works fine. The sensor cable is one piece from inside gauge to sensor, kind of hard to screw that up. Irritating at best.



Couple of pics, dam camera seems to have poor vision lately also.



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[Diesel Power]

So now what's more important: rail pressure or fuel pressure? Do you need both? Where am I going to put another gauge?

it takes fuel pressure to get rail pressure, and rail pressure to get power. there both important, but to the average person fuel pressure is most important

 

[Matt S]

So as long as I have positive pressure to the fuel pump then I don't need a rail pressure gauge? I think that is what your telling me. Or, if I have adequate rail pressure, then I don't have to worry about how much pressure I have at the fuel pump?

 

[Diesel Power]

So as long as I have positive pressure to the fuel pump then I don't need a rail pressure gauge? I think that is what your telling me. Or, if I have adequate rail pressure, then I don't have to worry about how much pressure I have at the fuel pump?

both are correct-it's up to you

 

[Bob4x4]

So as long as I have positive pressure to the fuel pump then I don't need a rail pressure gauge? I think that is what your telling me. Or, if I have adequate rail pressure, then I don't have to worry about how much pressure I have at the fuel pump?

Matt, when you start stacking mods and get up in miles the odds of not getting full pressure at the rail go way up. The rail pressure gauge is another way to be sure everything is ok... .....



Bob