2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Disappointing braking performance

[Got Smoke?]

Well last night I had just turned off a main hwy onto a backroad I use as a shortcut going home.



Just turned onto a backroad when something BROWN decided to walk out in front of me. #@$%! Luckily I didn't hit it, as it turned and ran when my tires locked up and started screeching.



I backed up to see how far my marks were and there was only one!



Ok I never had a problem locking up the fronts (when necessary) on the white truck, does this mean I have a caliper with less braking on the driver side?

 

[Lnwing]

I backed up to see how far my marks were and there was only one!

Are you sure it wasn't brown too?? :-laf

 

[rkressg]

The older (before '01. 5) trucks had a poor braking system. You can try the mod to put 1ton wheel cylinders in the rear. That should help some, just be careful, they can cause the rear to lock up and spin the truck around (only a warning, not necessarily the truth).



How does the brake pedal feel? It is not spongy, weak, or near the floor? You could have a bad caliper, but judging by the age of the truck, I would be willing to bet that your brake hoses are beginning to weaken. You would be amazed to see how little flex (expansion) in a rubber hose it takes to loose a tremendous amount of braking force. If it is really bad, you might want to consider steel braided brake hoses. I am assuming that your brake booster is properly functioning and it has a good vacuum source.

-Rich

 

[RCook]

Did it seem like the fronts were locked up and skidding, or maybe just the rears? Could be that the rear brakes need adjusting, and that one worked better than the other.

 

[Got Smoke?]

Did it seem like the fronts were locked up and skidding, or maybe just the rears? Could be that the rear brakes need adjusting, and that one worked better than the other.

It was definately the front(s) locked up. A guy on my KY site said that maybe the road was wet on one side and that caused it. It had been raining yesterday, and the road was just wet in spots that late at night. Could have been just damp on my d-side, and not on the passenger. Still find it hard to believe that with 4K lbs on the front axle that BOTH didn't lock, damp or not.

 

[jtwcummins]

I broke down and got the complete front brake setup from EGR and since installation have no brake pulling or any problems. The rears have to be manually adjusted every few thousand miles since the only way the self adjusters work is to backup about 10 mph and slam on the brakes, this gets one click.

As the rears start to fade the pedal gets softer, adjust and good to go. I adjust the rear every oil change. Do have the larger wheel cylinders and steel lines in the back.

Brakes are not an issue anymore, well worth the money over time.

 

[dodge cummins]

do you have abs? if its working you really should not skid

 

[Tcolesanti]

do you have abs? if its working you really should not skid

'01. 5 was the first year for 4-wheel ABS (and 4 wheel disc). Prior trucks '94-'97 years had vaccum boosters and only rear antilock, the '98-'01's had hydroboost operated brakes with just rear antilock as well.

I've locked the fronts up on my 2000 on one occasion on dry pavement, definately left two equal length marks.

My dad's '95 has had the calipers replaced 3 times now, the biggest problem being the little rubber grommet boot thing that works itself out of the caliper and won't stay in, causing a pulling to one side or the other. It also has worn the pads prematurely on many occasions. BTW he hates the brakes on that truck.

 

[RMarkey]

On my 01, I have a similar problem. But instead of only one front, I touch the brakes and about smack my head on the steering wheel. The front grabs but the back never seems to grab at all. I've adjusted, adjusted, had Dodge look @ it, where of course nothing was wrong! I've put 3 sets of bakes on the front and still on the same rear set, hmmm, normal by Dodge standards I guess? I even took it to an diff mechanic, he said, out of adjustment, so I adjusted it for you, where's my money? So the parking brake works really well now, and my forehead still hurts, and my wallet!



Any ideas anyone? I tried bleeding them a couple of times, and thought about new brake lines, but haven't done it yet.

 

[bmoeller]

Prior trucks '94-'97 years had vaccum boosters and only rear antilock, the '98-'01's had hydroboost operated brakes with just rear antilock as well.

The '97's have the hydra-boost also. '96 back, have the vacuum booster. I have rear ABS, when it works. If the rear brakes aren't adjusted up, my ABS won't work.

 

[EricBu12]

I did the rear disk conversion from EGR and the better rotors on the front... slotted with the carbon kevlar pads...



Then I bought some obscure thing that I don't know how it works exactly but it does work... . from brakeguard..... www.brakeguard.com ..... These go on the lines just outside of the master cylinder.....



Did a test and the truck stopped from 60 to 0 ... just short of locking up... . in about 170 ft. Most sports cars stop in about 135 ft. so for a 7800 lb. truck I call that good.

 

[Loren]

'01. 5 was the first year for 4-wheel ABS (and 4 wheel disc). Prior trucks '94-'97 years had vaccum boosters and only rear antilock, the '98-'01's had hydroboost operated brakes with just rear antilock as well.

Not quite true. I don't know about the vacuum booster vs. the hydroboost, but I do have 4-wheel ABS on both of my trucks. One's a 1995 and the other's a 2000.



Loren

 

[Cooker]

I have a friend with a 1994 with 4-wheel ABS. Also 1997 model year trucks had hydroboost breaks, it was the first year for them.

 

[jtwcummins]

My 97 is hydroboost and 4 wheel ABS. When the 2nd gens came out I started reading everything on the internet about these trucks. Many owners had brake pull problems so the night I drove my home from the dealer there was a pull when braking. Really a bummer. Pulled apart front brakes and cleaned/lubed the mating surfaces of the calipers and did several hard stops from 55 mph. Pull went away.



About 5 yrs later started getting pull again. Spent the money and did complete EGR front with SS lines front and back. Brakes were great but the pedal was not the same everytime the brakes were applied. Sometimes soft other times really had to push the pedal. Using a turkey baster and a couple of quarts of Valvoline syn PS fluid flushed the power steering several times until it was reasonably clear, then added lubeguard PS additive and the pedal has been consistant since and the power steering works great. Also got a power bleeder and several bottles of the fluid EGR sells and did a major flush of the brake system after putting new shoes and larger cylinders in the rear. Changed all the springs,etc, while doing this.

I have very good brakes, always stops w/o pulling. Still have to regularly adj the rears. When they need adjusting it isn't a slowly appearing issue, all of a sudden it's like the rears are off completely. Started doing adj at every oil change and no more problem.



As mentioned, it takes very little swelling of the hoses to cause a large reduction of braking. A bigger problem is the hose starts breaking down inside and can act as a check valve causing the calipers to not release right. Since take offs are optional and stopping manditory I don't cut costs on brakes or tires.

 

[macdaddy]

'01. 5 was the first year for 4-wheel ABS (and 4 wheel disc).



My 99 had four wheel ABS

 

[CMorrow]

My 94 4x2 has 4 wheel ABS. This was an option from the dealer. There's a bolt on Hydroboost unit that uses the stock master cylinder out there. Cost about $500. 00. Would like to find a drive line parking brake conversion for the Dana 70's though. The Rear disc conversion E-brakes suck.

 

[Bart]

You guys are being polite saying that the braking is less than admirable. Mine just plain "sucks". After last weekend trying stop a one ton dually with 11 cabover, car trailer (with brakes) and early Bronco I called EGR and ordered the front brake up grade and new brake hoses. I already had (though not installed) bigger rear wheel cylinders. So this Sunday/Monday I'm going to grow that Dodge a bigger set of stopping balls or next will be rear disc conversion. And if that doesn't work I'll buy an anchor :-laf .

 

[Got Smoke?]

You guys are being polite saying that the braking is less than admirable. Mine just plain "sucks". After last weekend trying stop a one ton dually with 11 cabover, car trailer (with brakes) and early Bronco I called EGR and ordered the front brake up grade and new brake hoses. I already had (though not installed) bigger rear wheel cylinders. So this Sunday/Monday I'm going to grow that Dodge a bigger set of stopping balls or next will be rear disc conversion. And if that doesn't work I'll buy an anchor :-laf .

Why not just buy an exhaust brake and be done with it?

 

[RColston]

EGR Brake upgrade and brakeguard. Sure helped my 96 a bunch. AFTER ALL IT"S ONLY $$$.

 

[FishDoc]

I put on EGR front calipers and rotors and all-around hoses about three years ago. I've had to have the rotors turned three times as they presumably got hot and warped. Now need it again!! I talked with a brake specialist yesterday and he said that is typical of Dodges (and Ford's) and just bought an on-the-truck lathe to help ease the turning of the rotors. .



He was not optomistic about a long-term fix, but suggested attacking the rear brakes with larger cylinders.



Any suggestion re this or going all the way with rear discs?