Disc brake pad replacement

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It's about time to replace the brake pads on my 98. 5 2500 4x4.

I plan on doing this myself as I've changed pads on at least three other vehicles I've owned over the years. However, I don't have a Dodge shop manual, so don't know how involved or how simple the pad change is on our Rams.

Who has done this change and are their any tips or tricks a person should know before doing the change?

I've been told that the Performance Friction pads are the ones to get, although I haven't checked locally yet to see if I can find them.

 

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If you have replaced brake pads on other vehicles you will have no problem with these. I would suggest clean and lubricate the pins with a lubricant suitable for brake applications. I would also suggest to pinch off the brake hoses, open the bleeder screw and collapse the pistons of the calipers. I have ruined master cylinders in the past by forcing the brake fluid back through the master cylinder. Then top off the master cylinder with new fluid.
Regards,
RK

 

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I've never had a master cylinder problem after compressing the caliper pistons. However, I can see where it would be easier to compress the pistons if the bleeder valve was open. Also by opening the bleeder valve when changing pads, it would lessen the chance that the valves would become siezed like they did on some of my vehicles from not being used.

Not sure about pinching off the brake line though. Would seem to me that just opening the bleeder valve would be enough to limit backpressure in the master cylinder.

 

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just did it this saturday before i drove to medford oregon (for nothing... long story). very easy. two mounting bolts. had i known to just open the bleed nipples i could have saved myself the cost of a c-clamp.

does it damage the mc to force brake fluid backwards? if it does i won't do it again.

my brakes went to nothing in 25kmi!!!!!!!! i am not liking more and more things about this truck (like the $200 per year weight penalty tacked on to the registration)..... but i love the damned thing!

i would be doing a dis-service to the title shade tree mechanic if i called myself that, but it is an easy job. go for it!

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regards,

peter
1998 24v 4x4 QC, SLT, Sport, Leather, Linex, snug lid, center line wheels, Smittybilt side steps,color matched fender flares, stull grills, tow hooks----first diesel, dodge etc. i'm in love!

 

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Irontrader,

Please don't pinch the rubber brake hoses #ad
"Sorry RK"

This can lead to internal damage of the hoses and you DO NOT want that to happen.

Use a cheap turkey baster ('cause you will probably throw it away after use) and suck some of the fluid out of your master cylinder. Do NOT go below the small hole near the bottom of the reservoir. Put the cover back on the master cylinder, pull your calipers, compress the piston(s) with a big set of channel lock plers or a C-clamp while your OLD pads are still in position. Clean everything up and put in the new pads. Now go check the master cylinder and top off. Have a helper slowly pump the brakes (SLOWLY or you will squirt brake fluid(paint remover) everywhere). As the level gets near the bottom add fluid.

Again, PLEASE DON'T PINCH THE HOSES!

Mick2500
Tucson
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2001 2500 ETH/DEE, QuadCab, 4X4, SB, LSD, 3. 54, SLT+, Sport, Intense Blue PC/Agate, Tow Package, Camper Package, 'DC' Bed Cover, Sliding rear window. Ordered 4/28/00... Cancelled by DC 5/30/00... re-ordered 6/02/00... Cancelled again by DC 6/05/00
Gauges (EGT/Boost) and A-Pillar mount Here, 4" Exhaust, Here. BD Exhaust Brake Here.
UPDATE!! Re-ordered 7/7/00..... Finally a new VON,
Status BX 7/11/00
Status D 7/12/00 (I now have a VIN)!!
D1 Status with an 8/16/00 Build Date!!
"J" Status as of 8/21/00, sittin' in the parking lot awaiting the W/E QC Folks. #ad


[This message has been edited by Mick2500 (edited 08-23-2000). ]

 

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With anti lock brakes never push the fluid back it only takes a very small piece of dirt to mess things up,another thought is that the fluid in the caliper/wheel cylinder is exposed to excess heat at times and can boil the fluid and most of it stays there forever so by opening the bleeder and then compressing the piston you expell the dirty fluid ,by using a c-clamp as you turn and get very near the end close the bleeder so no air can enter when the piston bottoms out. JMHO Don't forget to top off the fluid.