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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Disc brake service

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Although I have done a lot of brake work, I have not yet worked on an ABS equipped vehicle. My 2001 truck has four wheel disc brakes, and at just over 100,000 miles I think I should be doing the brakes. [The parking brake pedal goes nearly to the floor, which I take to be an indicator of the rears. ]

When I do this work is there anything peculiar to the ABS vehicle that I need to consider, any special procedure? Or can I do the work as I might have on any pre-ABS truck?

Any recommendations no good pads? What about sources for rotors, if I should need them?

Are any of you flushing your systems, and if so, what additional measures might be necessary since it is ABS?
 
Nope, ABS doesn't add any tricks to pad replacement. As far as the rears though, the parking brake works off a set of shoes inside the rear disk. The parking brake adjustment and function (shoes) is totally independant of the service brakes (pads).



To adjust the parking brake, you'll find a slot in the dust cover on the back of the wheel. On one side the slot is above the axle and on the other it is below, and there will be a rubber plug in it. Behind the plug will be a starwheel adjuster, just like other drum brakes. Adjust it 'till the wheel drags and then back off a click or two.
 
My 04 pulling a trailer went to 160K before we did the brakes... . we found that we had 2 of the boots bad between the piston and caliper... we ended up putting in new pistons that were not damaged from dirt... new boots and seals... . we always flush the brake fluid at least once a year... to keep it fresh... . we installed performance friction... a lot more money but well worth it... . we didn't have to turn the rotors... .



We found that if we stayed on top of the e-brake adjustment. . the pedal would stay at the top.....



Hope this helps.
 
Piston pushing..

Tip.



You'll need to push the caliper pistons back into the calipers to allow the new pads to fit over the rotors.



1) Remove the calipers from the spindles.



2) Support the calipers so that they are NOT hanging from the brake lines. (I use a motorcycle tie-down hooked on the shock tower on my 2nd gen 4x4. )



3) Put your piston compressor tool on the old pad and apply very light pressure. (Just enough to hold the tool in place)



4) Make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled up to the high mark with (new fresh from a sealed can. ) brake fluid.



5) Now back at the caliper... install a clear rubber hose from the bleeder to a small container. (suitable for brake fluid)

Slightly crack the bleeder on the caliper while at the same time compressing the piston with your caliper piston tool.



6) When the piston is fully compressed into the caliper close the bleeder.



7) Repeat on the other wheels.





This procedure keeps dirty brake fluid from being forced back into all the ABS valves.

It also introduces fresh fluid into the system , which also helps braking performance.



Remember to keep your caliper pins well lubed

Check them often and lubed as often as needed.

Sticky caliper pins are the first sign of trouble with our brakes.


Have FUN!

Happy New Year



SFB
 
Give this place a call for replacement brake parts.

Sam Peterson retired but his son still runs the business. Great service.



Rapid Brake Service

415 S Bay Rd NE

Olympia, WA 98506

360-357-4958
 
DShuart said:
Give this place a call for replacement brake parts.
Sam Peterson retired but his son still runs the business. Great service.

Rapid Brake Service
415 S Bay Rd NE
Olympia, WA 98506
360-357-4958

Just out of curiosity, why do you like them, given their great distance from you? How did you come upon this business?
 
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