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Disk Break casting issues

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Anyone on here notice or have this issue with their Disk Breaks? The issue is the disk looks like it had voids in it It'll have a smooth surface then it'll have these for lack of a better term a pot hole as if the disk lost a chunk of the rotor and you see the pours casting. The disk is actually thinner where the pot hole is. As much as .010"-.025" thinner. I first noticed this on my 2005 and my friend's 2004 truck. Now flash forward and my 2013 has the same issue on the rear rotors. While I can't feel any pulsation in the break peddle it has caused the break pad to ware much faster on the rough side. Has Ram gone really cheap with their castings?
 
I've not seen that on mine, but if one pad is wearing faster than the other there's a good chance the slide pins are seized. I just went through this on my 14, noticed the RR was squeaking so I pulled it in the garage and pulled the caliper off - both pins were seized solid. I make a routine of servicing the calipers annually on all my vehicles for just this reason, had plans on doing it on the truck next service but apparently it wanted done sooner. The road treatments combined with year round humidity, mud and dirt are hell on brakes around here.
 
Yes Brake not break stupid auto smell... Wait auto spill.... No wait auto spell...
I thought the caliper slides were stuck as I had one on the front axle lock up already but they were free. I should have taken some pic's but I was in a rush trying to get-R-Done... Best way to describe is it's as if you took a 4" grinder and using the edge of the wheel made these pockets in the disk. Only had you done that the hollowed out spots would be smooth. These spots show the casting grains as if a part of the casting cracked away. This is the 3rd Dodge/ Ram truck I've seen this happen on. I've never seen it happen with good quality after market rotors.
 
Disc brake rotors can have porosity's in the casting... if the area is smaller than the diameter of a lead pencil don't worry about it.... for years we turned rotors of all sizes and shapes and the voids are not an issue when they are small... its nothing more than an air bubble that formed during casting...

However marked on all rotors by federal law is a minimum thickness that you turn the rotor to and have it still function correctly on the truck... its needs the minimum thickness to help limit warp-age.... and in my opinion the most important reason is to absorb heat during the braking process and later shed that heat with the ventilation of the rotor.... We always worked to remove as little as possible, for longer rotor life...

In either case, if the rotor is below (thinner) minimum thickness throw the thing away...On large trucks, motor homes the dealers who sent us those rotors to turn would want to sell the customer 2 new ones if one had a rivet grove, or other area of damage that made it no salvageable.... the truth is... as long as the rotor is over the minimum thickness they will function as designed and with proper care of the calipers you can't tell if one or both have been replaced....

Hope this helps answer some of the questions..

BTW one last thought... if we had a rotor or drum with some hot spots (blue) those were hills so to speak on the surface and the cutter would bounce and chatter... we had a machine mounted grinder, that allowed us to grind those hills off where the hot spot was... and thus salvage the rotor/drum for the customer
 
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