I had never been inside a 5. 9 CTD before. I fixed my dowel pin at 197k. Took me 4 1/2 hours. Next one maybe 2 1/2 hours? I tapped the pin back in 7mm, used a gouge punch to upset 3 burrs behind the pin in the bore of the timing gear housing @ 120 degree intervals, cleaned the bore with brakekleen, blew it out with air, and applied blue loctite to the bore and back of the pin. Probably 1/2 hour to fix the pin to my satisfaction.
Tightened all accessable bolt heads with torque wrench to 18 ft/lbs. Rolled the crank over several times to get at bolts hiding behind cam gear spokes and tightened them by guess. The loosest of my half dozen bolts tightened took slightly more than 1/8th of a turn. I didn't remove, clean and loctite any, just checked torque and tightened 6 loose ones. Probably 1 1/2 hr.
Wrestled with Cummins front seal in front cover, wondering if the plastic seal protecting sleeve could possibly work (it does), learning that the crank seal area of the front cover must be directly supported by a piece of pipe or large socket slightly larger than seal diameter to seat new seal without profanity. Probably
2 hours.
Removing fan, belt, idler base, oil spout, crank pulley, and front cover and reinstalling, probably 1/2 hour +?
I wanted to open the cover up and am glad I did. My kdp repair method is not a tdr recommended method. Upsetting a burr to retain a floating pin has worked well for me for 30+ years, it seemed an excellent solution to me in this situation and I will probably recommend my solution or the tab method to any other CTD owners that ask. Not being an experienced 5. 9 CTD technician, I wouldn't feel comfortable using or recommending the kdp jig to others.
Either doing the kdp repair yourself or hiring someone to do it is
the most productive preventive mechanical repair that I've encountered in years.
Mel