Do I HAVE to use special tools for injector swap?

[Ross]

I'm preparing to do an injector swap on a 3rd gen. It's my first try. I've done many swaps in 2nd generation 24 valve trucks, and never needed any of the special tools, but it looks like they may be necessary for the common rail injectors.



Has anyone done the job without the tools? I know what the risks are, and I am aware that the tools would reduce these risks, but can it be done without the special tools, if done carefully?



Thanks!

 

[Bob4x4]

No special tools are needed,it is much easier to do w/out the special miller tools.



Bob

 

[JThacker]

If it is easier without the miller tool how do you pry the injectors out? Jay

 

[Ross]

Bob4X4:



I'm pretty sure I can get the injector out by gently prying on the up on the injector, using the rail (lip) on the head as a fulcrum. Like this:#ad




I'm mostly concerned about the injector tubes. They appear to be much more delicate and precise than the 2nd genners. How do I pry them out without boogering them up?

 

[jwilliams3]

I just pull them out with my meat hooks. Using a screwdriver to help out works well also.



NO SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED!!!!

 

[RobertP]

if you can be gentle you can use a set of chanel locks and just one easy twist of the wrist and its out.

 

[n7gxz]

Don't the 3rd gens use connector tubes between where the injector connect to the head and the injectors like the 2nd gens do? If so the Miller tool to pull them out is very helpfull.



Kevin

 

[Bob4x4]

A pocket screw driver is what works for me to pop out the connector tubes. Most times you can just grab the injector by hand and pul it up. It is only an o-ring that holds it in once the hold down bolts are pulled.



Bob

 

[Snoxracer]

I used no special tools, I was able to pull all the injector tubes out using just my fingers. Then I have a hook tool that I used to gently pry the injectors up! It was pretty easy I thought.



Snoxracer

 

[WPeschel]

I did a nozzle swap no special tools, first time and I'm not a diesel mechanic. . I have rebuilt many gassers..... It took about 5 hrs drinking beer and being very particular... . The only tools I had to buy were the crows foot type wrench attachments that went on the torue wrench to torque fuel lines..... Wesley

 

[Bodie]

Just be sure and do your torque sequence on the tubes and injectors, or you will have "oisel" (diesel in your oil) :-laf 30k psi leaves no room for mistakes.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

In TDR #51, p. 97 I listed procedures, my tools, and Dodge torque specs. I use a "lady foot" pry bar to lift the injectors. Note that Dodge specifies snugging the injector, releasing, then snug the connector tube nuts to 11 ft lb, then torque the injectors and then the nuts.

 

[Ross]

Great info, guys. Like I said, I've done many 2nd gens, but this is my first 3rd gen. Sounds like it's not that different than the 2nd gens, except for the torque sequence.

 

[Smokin Joes 2500]

How do you bleed the pressure off the rail before you start crackin' the lines loose?? Or does it naturally bleed off once the engine is off. Just curious Sorry for the dumb question, I had to pay to get mine changed. Too scared of the PSI.

 

[Bodie]

It doesn't stay pressurized when the truck is not running. It will just leak out when you crack the line, nothing to worry about.

 

[Smokin Joes 2500]

It doesn't stay pressurized when the truck is not running. It will just leak out when you crack the line, nothing to worry about.

Cool good to know, that way when the rest of them crack I can replace myself :-laf

 

[mwgasman]

I just did my injectors 2 weeks ago. I had no special tools. The connector tubes popped right out with gentle pulling using only my fingers. For the injectors, I was able to pull them up with my hand and a paper towel wrapped around the injector.



You really need to remove the intake horn, and the 2 brackets at the back of the motor. You will never be able to properly torque the connector tube nuts without having everything off of the intake manifold. It also helps to have the rocker box off the top of the head. I had my rocker box off anyway because I was doing a final retorque of my head.



No need to worry about bleeding the injector lines, the air will be compressed to almost no volume as soon as the cp3 builds pressure, and is cleared out of the lines very fast. Mine started after less than 3 seconds of cranking.



Getting a copy of the factory service manual is very helpful because it lists all of the factory torque specs. There used to be a pdf copy of the service manual on one of the hemi ram websites.



edit: click here Scroll down on the left pane of the web page. You will find pdf versions of '03 - '06 service manuals.