Do I need a brake system drain, flush, & refill?

[JWGreen]

Took my 2011 3500 DRW with 107K miles to an independent garage for a coolant drain, flush and refill. Had same done when it had 55K miles. Also, transmission fluid drain, flush, and refill, install new filter. Also had Mag-Hytec pan installed replacing OEM pan. Truck used to pull 12K lbs. Airstream travel trailer. Old fluids were OK per the mechanic. 68RE transmission OK, no problems ever. The shop recommended a brake system drain flush, and refill with new synthetic DOT-4 brake fluid. Have never heard of that. All comments welcome.

 

[Bob4x4]

Flushing brake fluid is real,since it absorbs moisture.If you had ever opened up an old wheel cylinder full of rust and corrosion you would see why it is recommended.

 

[jgillott]

I'm not sure if Ram has a specific interval for brake fluid flush, but it should be done. For my Sprinter, MB recommends every 2 years.

As Bob mentioned, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. I try and flush the system on my vehicles every time I service the brakes, which ends up being every 2-3 years on average.

 

[Wayne M.]

Indeed. I NEVER EVER EVER X10000 push the brake fluid back into the system when I do a reline. I have a dedicated suction gun and I draw out the old fluid and refill as well.
I also have an electronic brake fluid tester that checks for moisture content.
As far as your independent garage- I just hope they used all the correct fluids, especially the coolant.

 

[jgillott]

I use a basic Mityvac Silverline hand pump. What do you use Wayne?

 

[Wayne M.]

I use a basic Mityvac Silverline hand pump. What do you use Wayne?

I have the mity vac with the can, and a couple of grease gun size suction guns for different fluids.
I’ll suck out the resivoir and refill it, then open each bleeder as I push the caliper back, then a quick bleed. After that I’m usually showing clear fluid.
Also, unless I’m doing a flush like this, I buy the little nip size brake fluid bottles. Soon as you break the seal on the bottle, the clock is ticking.

 

[nukegm]

flush it. been 7 years....cheers!

 

[JR]

This topic rarely gets brought up. I can not tell you how much it drives me crazy seeing someone push old fluid from the caliper back into the system. At a bare minimum, you should be opening the bleeder anytime a caliper gets pushed back in for service and top off the master cylinder with fresh fluid.

100% agree with Wayne on his assessment of buying the smallest containers possible.

 

[Cummins12V98]

For sure! Also pop calipers and lube pins and mating surfaces.

 

[Wayne M.]

I can not tell you how much it drives me crazy seeing someone push old fluid from the caliper back into the system.

It’s especially bad for the ABS HCU.

 

[crispyboy]

All my vehicles get new brake fluid pushed through every two or three years. Also grease slide pins on calipers. I feel this little bit of maintenance has saved me a lot of headaches. I use valvoline synpower brake fluid.

 

[BigPapa]

The DOT4 would be good. It has a higher boiling point than DOT3. It’s what I run in my ‘98. Just remember that’s what you have in it anytime you add fluid. 3 and 4 are compatible, so they say, but I’d not mix them unless it was an emergency.

-Scott

 

[ChrisW98]

With any abs equipped vehicle, you should never push the fluid back to reservoir. Damage to ABS HCU Modules can occur. Open bleeder

 

[amauri]

I've been a full time professional mechanic for 40+ years, worked at GM dealerships most of those years.
With ABS equipped vehicles, the brake fluid flush procedure requires activating the ABS module to purge the old fluid contained in the ABS pump reservoir. That fluid never exits the ABS reservoir until the ABS is activated. There are essentially two hydraulic circuits with in a ABS system.

Here is a good Tech paper that explains it in simple terms:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-abs-brake-systems

 

[Wayne M.]

That’s true amauri, but most members here don’t have the ability to activate the HCU. I’m surprised that paper suggested to go out and purposely activate the ABS system.

 

[amauri]

I had a old Sprinter van for 10 years before I got the 2018 RAM, and I used the described method a few times without issues.

I would flush the system the normal way with a power vacuum pump, then go to a dirt road to intentionally activate the ABS.
After a few runs, I would go back home and bleed the system with the vacuum pump again.

Not so dangerous if you use common sense, and it avoids future ABS problems caused by moisture trapped inside the ABS accumulator.

 

[Wayne M.]

I had a old Sprinter van for 10 years before I got the 2018 RAM, and I used the described method a few times without issues.

I would flush the system the normal way with a power vacuum pump, then go to a dirt road to intentionally activate the ABS.
After a few runs, I would go back home and bleed the system with the vacuum pump again.

Not so dangerous if you use common sense, and it avoids future ABS problems caused by moisture trapped inside the ABS accumulator.

I guess you don’t live in New York City.

 

[amauri]

true

 

[jgillott]

I had a old Sprinter van for 10 years before I got the 2018 RAM, and I used the described method a few times without issues.

I would flush the system the normal way with a power vacuum pump, then go to a dirt road to intentionally activate the ABS.
After a few runs, I would go back home and bleed the system with the vacuum pump again.

Not so dangerous if you use common sense, and it avoids future ABS problems caused by moisture trapped inside the ABS accumulator.

What year was your Sprinter?

 

[amauri]

2005 SRW long and tall, got a lot of good use out of it.
Several cross country trips hauling racing motorcycles.