Do I need a clutch yet? If so, is there a Tampa SBC installer?

[Hohn]

I think my clutch may FINALLY be succumbing to the inevitable. After years of holding DD2s and an EZ (which is wasn't supposed to hold), then Mach 4s, and now Mach 4s Plus Catcher ECM, my clutch appears to be showing signs of mortality.

But I'm not even sure it's going. It's not obviously slipping. It's just that when I step on it I can more noise and boost than actual go. The RPMs don't jump up, and the boost doesn't jump down-- either of which would obviously point to a bad clutch.

But it's reasonable to assume that hard use of a Catcher+M4 combo would take out the stock clutch, imo. I've found myself driving a little mor aggressive here in FL-- partly because there's more power in denser, wetter air-- and partly because Tampa traffic will make you crazy, and HP is a good coping mechanism (and cheaper than meds).

So, who is near Tampa that I could trust to install a Con FE? I need someone who's done this work before, wouldn't rape my wallet, and knows about the flywheel machining requirements for a SBC.

Thanks for the help.

jh

 

[GiesJ]

Hohn -

Drive about 2 hours to these dudes - http://www.southbendclutch.com/distributors.html#fl

I haven't worked with them but if SBC lists them I believe they are not a bunch of monkeys...

Pull the trigger and get a FE now and I bet you find some more power...

Drop me a line sometime,

j

 

[Hohn]

Naples is too far. A lot more than just a couple hrs.

I'd trust Garmon's for sure, but they're too busy breaking records to probably just do a basic clutch job

jh

 

[GiesJ]

Mapquest calls it 2 hr and 36 min. I am sure your truck can do it in under 2 even with a glazed clutch... The ride home with help get the break in started.

BTW - how long in you FL? Air Force stuff?

take care

 

[Hohn]

I musta been mistaken on the distance-- I'll have to check it out.

I'm here until the summer on "bidness" for my Rich Uncle.

 

[RustyJC]

But I'm not even sure it's going. It's not obviously slipping. It's just that when I step on it I can more noise and boost than actual go. The RPMs don't jump up, and the boost doesn't jump down-- either of which would obviously point to a bad clutch.

Justin,



The pore ole thang might finally be dying, huh? Well, I'd say you got your money's worth out of it. Bury it with full military honors - good clutch. Good clutch. :{



If you want a go/no go check, get out on an open street, hold a steady speed of 1800 RPM or so in 6th gear and floor the accelerator. If you hear a ratcheting, juddering sound under your right foot, call Peter. When mine started slipping, it wasn't the "whee" slick-feeling phenomenon of a typical gasser clutch where the RPM skyrocketed and the speedometer didn't move. Apparently these clutches try to grip even when they're slipping - initially, at least, until everything gets glazed up. I caught mine before it generated any glazing or hot spots - the machining marks were still on the stock flywheel and pressure plate when they were removed.



Rusty

 

[Rman]

Mine was like Rusty's, well until it glazed over. Once it's glazed the problem gets worse. The clutch material is ok, but the glazing effect really harms it's ability to do its job. If you aren't planning on modding anymore (if that's possible in your psyche, sure isn't with mine) then the OFE I suggest. I have the FE, it's great I love it, but it is quite touchy. Backing large trailers, or anything heavy is challenging. Luckily I'm good at it, but if I make mistakes that FE clutch heats up and really acts stubborn.



Just my observation. I still like it, it's taken everything I've ever been able to throw at it.

 

[Hohn]

Justin,

The pore ole thang might finally be dying, huh? Well, I'd say you got your money's worth out of it. Bury it with full military honors - good clutch. Good clutch. :{

If you want a go/no go check, get out on an open street, hold a steady speed of 1800 RPM or so in 6th gear and floor the accelerator. If you hear a ratcheting, juddering sound under your right foot, call Peter. When mine started slipping, it wasn't the "whee" slick-feeling phenomenon of a typical gasser clutch where the RPM skyrocketed and the speedometer didn't move. Apparently these clutches try to grip even when they're slipping - initially, at least, until everything gets glazed up. I caught mine before it generated any glazing or hot spots - the machining marks were still on the stock flywheel and pressure plate when they were removed.

Rusty

Well, my clutch is doing exactly what Rusty's did. I can feel it "hook up" again as boost drops down to 20 or so. So it's no longer ambiguous. My clutch has slipped:{

I don't think it's glazed too badly yet.

This is where Smarty's "half power" feature is WONDERFUL! I could probably drive it this way for a couple more months.

But where's the fun in that?




I'll have to contact Robin on how I can get my clutch put in the TDR Hall of Fame

 

[Hohn]

Mine was like Rusty's, well until it glazed over. Once it's glazed the problem gets worse. The clutch material is ok, but the glazing effect really harms it's ability to do its job. If you aren't planning on modding anymore (if that's possible in your psyche, sure isn't with mine) then the OFE I suggest. I have the FE, it's great I love it, but it is quite touchy. Backing large trailers, or anything heavy is challenging. Luckily I'm good at it, but if I make mistakes that FE clutch heats up and really acts stubborn.

Just my observation. I still like it, it's taken everything I've ever been able to throw at it.

I don't tow anything, and I'm shooting for a wee bit more HP, so the FE is my choice#ad

 

[Rman]

I don't tow anything, and I'm shooting for a wee bit more HP, so the FE is my choice#ad

I like that... wee... Honey it's just a wee bit more, won't hurt anything. When she asks what the street slicks are for, then we're in trouble... the wee has gotten a "wee" out of hand.

 

[GiesJ]

Hohn -

You get a clutch yet?? How's FL?

 

[Hohn]

FL is warm. Not like Wyoming, LOL!

Traffic STILL sucks. Let me tell you how much fun it is rowing the 6er for the 50min it takes me to drive the 11 miles to work.

NO clutch yet. Not slipping since I'm running smarty's Half Power.

I can't find an installer anywhere near here that I'd trust, so I may have to wait until I get home.

I could swing by Garmon's but they're busy making 4-digit hp and probably don't have time for a boring FE install :yawn:

 

[jwilliams3]

Hohn,

A buddy of mine put an FE in his 2000 5 speed that was right at 470rwhp.

That was back in mid 2002 and it is still going TODAY!!!



You should be set up into the 500whp area as long as you dont go crazy on it every day.

 

[Hohn]

Well, I know an FE will live with the power levels I will have. At least I feel confident that it will. Driving style matters, and I figure if I kept the stocker alive this long, then I'm doing OK in that department.


The problem is finding who knows wth they are doing. I'm not about to pay some inexperienced Joe to experiment on my truck. Once it goes back together, I don't want to have to pull it apart ever again.

jh

 

[rivercat]

I shoulda goten a pic to post of the almost 4 feet of 6er and Tcase strapped to the 20 something dollar harbor freight transmission adapter I put in my trusty 2. 5 ton floor jack. All in all its an easy job takes longer to get the crossmmber out and shifter off than it does to get the old stuff off and put the new back in.

As long as you can find someone to cut the flywheel I would say do it yourself. They cut mine at my local family owned CarQuest for $28. 00 and spent over an hour puting a glass smooth finish on it- like peters sheet recomends.

Put it in 4hi and 3rd that way you can spin the yoke on the Tcase and index the splines into the disk, Mine fit like a glove in 3 seconds I rolled it up started a bolt or two and wiggled it the rest of the way in- no sweat.

 

[Hohn]

Thanks for the post-- if I'm feeling froggy I may attempt this.

 

[dslmacdown]

Justin, if you can limp it back to wyoming I will help you with the replacement.



Chris