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Do I need two Friction Anti Sway kits?

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I was reading my load distribution hitch manual and they suggest that I install two anti sway kits (friction) on my trailer due to its length (26ft). The trailer is pretty light (4300 lbs unloaded) and seemed to tow just fine on our first run to Seattle from Spokane with only one installed. We are planning a trip to the Grand Canyon this spring, and want to ensure I am at least meeting the standard. Issue is that I have NEVER seen anyone run more than one; is this a ploy to sell product or is this a legitimate measure in your experience. Any input will be well received. Thanks,

Dave
 
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You may have answered your own question. You say that it towed fine with just one anti-sway attached. I tow a 30 travel trailer that weighs close to 8000 lbs loaded and I have no need for an anti-sway friction bar. It tows just fine with the load leveler adjusted properly.

Now my single axle flatbed toy trailer with two quads and four motorcycles was a different story, mostly due to having too little tongue weight. After redistributing the load and adding an anti-sway bar, I have no issues at all.

I believe you will be fine with a single set up, but it's really what you're comfortable with.
 
One friction kit should be fine for a 26 footer. Make sure you have adequate hitch weight and all tires are aired up well. The single biggest issue of sway is light hitch weight. The second biggest issue is getting the ball too far from the center of the rear axle. On a normal pickup with a standard receiver the distance is about 5 foot over hang. Some weight distributing hitches add about a foot to your hitch, this just adds to the issue and now you need a friction device. I don't use either one.



Nick
 
Anti Sway Bars.

I tow a 1998, 25' Nash travel trailer with an '03, 3500 SRW, longbed, 4X4 & have towed from Toronto,ON. Canada to San Diego, CA. , Charleston, WV. to Seattle, WA. & all of the western mountain states & I use only one anti sway bar. I have never had an issue with excessive, uncontrollable swaying with this system.



I'm not saying that two anti sway bars wouldn't be better but, my experience has been that one is enough, for me. I've spent two summers traveling on the road with my trailer, also.



There has never been a time when I wished that I had two anti sway bars. I suppose you could buy one system & use it & if you feel that you need more control, buy another system.



Good luck.



Joe F.
 
The truth is NO sway devices are needed if the truck and trailer are set up correctly, wind or no wind. Have you ever seen a transporter with a sway device of some kind attached to the trailer? The reason transporters do not use a sway device is they are not essential to safety, and therefore are not installed on the trailers at the factory. Think about it. They come with SAFETY chains, and EMERGENCY break away switches (we have to carry and install a battery in the trailer), both mandated by the feds. If there was any research that showed that anti-sway was needed, the feds would require it. Has anyone ever seen an enclosed cargo trailer with a sway device? That is all a TT is, a cargo trailer with windows and appliances. The likelyhood of a cargo trailer swaying is a lot more probable than a TT, yet no one bats an eye that no one uses them. After logging more than 200,000 miles of pulling all types of TTs, both new and privately owned loaded, I have never once wished for a sway device. If you haven't had any problem with one installed I'd be willing to bet you could remove it and never feel a difference.



If you have a trailer that sways, fix the problem. A sway device is a band-aid fix where a tourniquet is needed. All the recommendations from the RV "experts" are based on hearsay and hyperbole. There is no evidence that sway devices are "insurance" or "something that you might need in the event of a sudden manuever".
 
I always figured a trailer sway device was more of a feel good thing, like fuel additive, if it makes you more comfortable and feel good, by all means use one.



For me, when you take into account a 20 foot pickup and 20/30 foot trailer, you are talking a huge amount of leverage at the hitch. How is a 6" "chingus" gonna overcome that?



When you meet a semi on a two lane road or one passes you, relax, keep the wheel straight, the trailer will only whip a couple of times and stop. Don't try to fight it, you will only make it worse.



Nick
 
I always figured a trailer sway device was more of a feel good thing, like fuel additive, if it makes you more comfortable and feel good, by all means use one.

Nick



Yep, with a properly loaded tandem axle trailer, no anti-sway devices are needed. Many of the "light weight" travel trailers built today are advertised to be towed behind down sized SUV type vehicles. The hitch weight capacity on smaller SUVs vehicles is very limited therefore the travel trailers are built with light tongue weights which leads to problems with trailer sway... it becomes "the tail wagging the dog".



The tow vehicle and trailer must be taken to a commercial scale and weighed to make sure at least 12-15% of the trailer weight is on the tongue.



Bill
 
GAmes makes a very good point, I will take the TT down to the scales on base to ensure I have the weight distributed correctly. This would be the first time actually utilizing an anti sway device (came with the hitch), not wanting to deviate from tech data for safety sake drove the question. Again, thanks for all of your help.
 
I bought a 25' TT weighing 4300 lbs dry, in 2010 and started towing it with our 2000 Durango. It tows great using one friction type sway bar. (Until you hit high velocity cross winds) Crossing high bridges and passes through mountain cuts can be a butt puckering feeling. Last summer bought a Dodge Ram 3500 SWR and I still use the sway bar. I have towed it a couple of times without the bar just to see how it handled. I could feel a slight difference. I really don't feel like the 3500 requires the bar but I have it and I use it. It may be a "feel good" device but it definitely not hurting anything. I truly feel like the use of the sway bar has a lot to do with the combination of the tow vehicle capacity, TT length, and TT weight.
 
I can say with a toy hauler the anti sway is a big plus due to the fact that the weight distribution chnages from the going and returning trips. Since you are using fuel, water, propane and food during the stay. I can not change the way the toys sit in the trailer so theere is a difference in distribution. When I am leaving home the trailer tracks true with no sway issues, coming home without the sway bar there is a noticable difference. Its not uncontrollable but with the sway brake it is gone.
 
I can say with a toy hauler the anti sway is a big plus due to the fact that the weight distribution chnages from the going and returning trips. Since you are using fuel, water, propane and food during the stay. I can not change the way the toys sit in the trailer so theere is a difference in distribution. When I am leaving home the trailer tracks true with no sway issues, coming home without the sway bar there is a noticable difference. Its not uncontrollable but with the sway brake it is gone.



Why do you remove it for the return trip?
 
Why do you remove it for the return trip?



I did not originally have the sway bar when I first purchased the Toy Hauler. Now I leave it on all the time.



I was comenting on the quote that a properly loaded and setup trailer does not need a sway control device. Can't always get the load distributed just right.
 
I did not originally have the sway bar when I first purchased the Toy Hauler. Now I leave it on all the time.



I was comenting on the quote that a properly loaded and setup trailer does not need a sway control device. Can't always get the load distributed just right.



Copy. You guys ride at Pismo much? After last year, I told my family that I will never go there again!! Too many PUNKS.
 
Copy. You guys ride at Pismo much? After last year, I told my family that I will never go there again!! Too many PUNKS.



We go as a truck club one a year, sometimes we may go twice. I enjoy it but there are quite a few yahoos that you need to be careful of. Its get worse as they keep closing down more of the dunes and squeezing everyone into a smaller area. I perfer the desert in the winter, got a lot more room.
 
The truth is NO sway devices are needed if the truck and trailer are set up correctly, wind or no wind. Have you ever seen a transporter with a sway device of some kind attached to the trailer? The reason transporters do not use a sway device is they are not essential to safety, and therefore are not installed on the trailers at the factory. Think about it. They come with SAFETY chains, and EMERGENCY break away switches (we have to carry and install a battery in the trailer), both mandated by the feds. If there was any research that showed that anti-sway was needed, the feds would require it. Has anyone ever seen an enclosed cargo trailer with a sway device? That is all a TT is, a cargo trailer with windows and appliances. The likelyhood of a cargo trailer swaying is a lot more probable than a TT, yet no one bats an eye that no one uses them. After logging more than 200,000 miles of pulling all types of TTs, both new and privately owned loaded, I have never once wished for a sway device. If you haven't had any problem with one installed I'd be willing to bet you could remove it and never feel a difference.

If you have a trailer that sways, fix the problem. A sway device is a band-aid fix where a tourniquet is needed. All the recommendations from the RV "experts" are based on hearsay and hyperbole. There is no evidence that sway devices are "insurance" or "something that you might need in the event of a sudden manuever".

I'm probably going to get some disagreement here. I don't totally agree trailers don't need sway control. A lot of things can cause sway. Improper hitch setup, low tire pressure, incorrect load range tires, to much weight toward the rear of a camper, just to name a few. Most transporters have HD trucks and 10 ply load range "E" tires, making sway less obvious. I work at an RV dealership and we do suggest sway control products. A rule of thumb, 26' or less, no slideout, use a friction sway control. Over 26' and with a slideout, use a Dual Cam sway control setup. Transporters (most) are more experienced towing and know how to anticipate what and where things can happen. I say this not meaning people who tow for recreation don't know what they are doing. I tow and have done so for over 30 years, with and without sway control. There is a difference using sway control. Keep in mind, a sway control system has to be properly set up to be effective, along with everything involved. I've seen the good, the bad and the ugly. Would be glad to answer any questions, keep in mind, just MHO, and 30+ years in the RV world. In answer to the original question, one friction sway, set up properly.
 
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A lot of things can cause sway. Improper hitch setup, low tire pressure, incorrect load range tires, to much weight toward the rear of a camper, just to name a few.



This is what we are talking about. Thats why we say, "properly setup". Nothing will "fix" any of the above issues, only by addressing them. If any of the above exist, don't pull it. Just because a toy hauler is new doesn't mean it was built right. With axles to far forward for the weight in the "toy" section, it requires smaller toys, less toys or lighter ones.



I have a heavy duty bumper pull equipment trailer that I frequently haul 8-10,000 lbs on, it weighs 3,000 lbs empty, It has an 8" main frame and 8" sub frame/hitch. I pull it with any of the trucks in my sig. obviously the Ford dually is the best. If the load being hauled will not place the weight where I need it, I don't load it.



Nick
 
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