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Do I really need all those gauges??

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In a word... yes, you do.

They are pretty much all that stands between you and the engine's mortality.

The basic gauges are:



1) EGT gauge (exhaust gas temperature. . best mounted in the exhaust manifold NOT the downpipe!!

2) Boost gauge

3) Tach

4) Trans temp if equipped with an automatic trans.

5) Oil pressure

6) Oil temperature

7) Water temperature



Bob.
 
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Pyrometer

I would have to say the pyrometer is the most important gauge of all, period. I had a stock 93 W350 with 4. 10s, and was going up Vail Pass in Colorado on I-70 at about 72mph. I was running about 1050deg in the manifold, 14 psi boost. Came around a corner, gained about 1/2% grade, EGT shot up to 1350 before I knew it. Water temp was still in the normal range; engine wasnt working THAT much harder, and I was 1/2 mi away from a meltdown. Of course, I was at about 11000 ft, so that added to it.



Put it in the manifold. I had the t-couple (EGT probe) in the exhaust pipe in my current truck for about a week. I got to an automotive machine shop that drilled and tapped the manifold, and put the t-couple where it belonged. Before (I was living at 6500ft), I could only hit about 875, maybe 900 deg going up a hill on CO94 east of ColoSpgs, pushing about 27 psi boost to keep 65mph. After moving the probe, I hit 1300 at only 24-25 psi, and it was climbing FAST!!! I became a believer at that point. The thermocouple is next to useless in the pipe. Some will tell you that if a chunk of the tip breaks off, it will take out your turbo, and most likely your engine. True, but if you have chunks coming out of your combustion chambers taking the tip off your t-couple, you have bigger issues to deal with. Same for melting the tip; it is a type K, good for about 2500 deg Farenheit.



Daniel
 
You either need gauges or a good comfortable pair of walking shoes.



FWIW

I've installed several TC (thermocouple) probes in exhaust manifolds of turbo diesels by drilling and tapping the probe hole (pre-turbo of course) while the motor is running (exhaust pressure blows all

chips outwards-wear safety glasses). I realize that this procedure seems counter-intuitive, but it has worked for me without incident. (I didn't invent the idea, it was in the instructions with a turbo kit for a farm tractor. ) I wouldn't use this procedure if the engine doesn't have a nice smooth idle.

If you'd prefer not to use the "engine running" method you can also use the following procedure.

Mark and centerpunch you probe install location. Then use the correct size drill bit, well greased and begin drilling. Stop drilling and clean off the drill tip, re-apply some grease and continue. Do this two or three times until you break through the manifold. Insert a mechanics magnet or pencil magnet and "fish" for any stray bits/filings.

Use the exact same process with the tap. Grease/tap, remove/clean, grease/tap and so forth until done to the correct depth (remember the fitting is an NPT fitting and you don't want to go too far with the tap. The last step in this is once more "fish" for any bits. From there you can install the probe and fire up the truck. The idle will clean any bits, if any, from the manifold and cause no damage.



Mel
 
Any idea how to hook up a tach? I know there's a terminal on the computer for tach - but no idea what kind of signal it produces - I live in the mountains and tow a 28' 5th wheel - I'd like to know my rpms going downhill. I have a VDO tach from a bus that I might try with - don't want to fry my computer . . .



PWR
 
Tach wiring to a 93 1st gen

93 tach wiring diagarm

I'm trying to install gauges need to find out how to where to tip in to the tach wire harness?
 
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