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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Dodge/Chrysler MISTAKE #225....

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Question

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) several questions

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Putting clamps on the cummins oil pan bolts to hold transmission lines... . Recon maybe that engine vibration would have a highly abbrassive action over 205,000 miles???





My trans tried to bleed to death after the lines were sawed on by their retainer bracket. . Hope this is the only one... . If not, new lines for me...



You can see the fluid that has come out even after I wiped it down for the shot.



Anyone Have Part numbers for these two lines? 1996 dodge ram 2500 Ext Cab Longbed (not sure anything matters other than year and model)



If anyone can help me out on numbers i'd be indebted to you.
 
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DAVE!!! I LOVE YOU MAN!!! So these numbers are both of the lines in the pisture there?? I'm gonna go tuesday morning and see what I can get done at the dealer... hint hint. . nudge nudge... :D





I killed it off running a 70 GMC pickup with some V-8 in it... . The guy gave me a thumbs up after I pulled on him... ... All in the name of Cummins dominance.





I'm working on a sacrifice to the trans GODs right now... .
 
Well... ... The lines I got don't fit and aren't gonna fit... . back to the drawing board...





Edit: well maybe they will fit... gotta love product revisions
 
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biggy:



There are a few posts around about the IPS thread size of the hoses, from the transmission to the engine cooler, and from transmission to rad cooler. You can do some measurements and take the end sizes to a hydraulic hose builder and prolly get a good set of hoses made for much less than the dealer price. All you need is pressure capability to 100psi and 250-300 degrees rated



Ive been thinking about doing this to mine, but my lines are in pretty good shape and im not spending the $ until I have to heh



-j
 
I've got it worked out now I think... The lines had a fitting revision that we didn't take into account. I have part numbers and locations in hand... just have to wait until tomorrow.....

If I had more time I would have done what you suggested and built the lines but being Memorial Day weekend and such it just wasn't an option.





It would serve you well to take the clamps off of the oil pan rail and have a looksee. . they don't look like anything is wrong until the clamp is moved away fom the line. I didn't realize what mine was doing even while it was pumping fluid until I actually pulled the line through the bracket some and saw the wear.
 
tp0d said:
All you need is pressure capability to 100psi and 250-300 degrees rated



Where are you getting that kind of pressure in the cooler lines? They just dump back in the pan. There is no back pressure except flow resistance in the coolers and lines. That does not add up to 100 PSI. The oil has done the work before it goes into the cooler lines. The pressure was mostly used up for that work. The hoses to the air exchange cooler in the front are just gear clamps.
 
Looking at the flow I had from such a small crack, I would guess that the lines are near 50 psi or so. That's just a round about figure just eyeballing it. Abstract really.



I'm going here in just a moment to locate the last two fittings I need. If you guys have any luck to spare, now is the time because mine has clearly left me.
 
Looking at the flow when I remove the return line to flush the trans when I change oil I think the presure is less than 50 PSI, probably more like 30 or so. That still will get rid of a lot of oil in a hurry. When I blew a fitting (I think it was in '97) in Nevada on a Sunday afternoon. It took a case of oil to get me home to Eureka. About 500 miles or so. It was more of a drippy mess than spray. The fitting was only held in the trans because the steel line was stiff.
 
It's another one of those deals where the feeling of your lower extremeties goes for a little while until you can collect yourself again.



I got down to the last fitting I needed to put mine back together this morning... .

I pulled up at the dealership and notice stuff laying out in the parking lot like they're gutting the place... Get inside "Oh, we're moving to the new facility, you probably won't be able to get that until friday or after. "



So I cruise down to the new place and find the resident parts man (who knows me) and tell him the fix i'm in and he said i'll have it tomorrow. . I gave him the part number and my number so he can get ahold of me. .



So close, yet so far.



Joe, is there any practical way I can go ahead and flush the rest of the system myself?
 
I'm not sure what you mean by "rest of the system". Any trash in the cooler lines will be stopped by the transmission filter so it can't be sucked up into the trans. Unless there is a lot of it I don't see the problem.
 
Oh I just mean the TC and the coolers. I have a new filter and i'm going to adjust the bands tomorrow while i'm in it. I just wanted to know if there was a homebrew way to flush the old fluid... It's not like I need to this go-round because of the sheer amount i'm replacing anyway.
 
Joe G. said:
Where are you getting that kind of pressure in the cooler lines? They just dump back in the pan. There is no back pressure except flow resistance in the coolers and lines. That does not add up to 100 PSI. The oil has done the work before it goes into the cooler lines. The pressure was mostly used up for that work. The hoses to the air exchange cooler in the front are just gear clamps.





I only said that so the guys making the hoses wouldnt try to sell him suction hoses which have thinner walls. 100psi is a relatively low pressure hyd hose, not too expensive and would last a while. I agree there is very little pressure there yes...



biggie: my lines were removed, checked and flushed when I had my transmission rebuilt last year. I specifically asked them to do that, if any problems would have been found, I was gonna do the hyd hose option. . I still am, once I get some more of my house projects done here. . sigh...



-j
 
You can attach a hose to the return cooler line. Let the engine idle in gear while it pumps the old oil out. Pour new stuff in. Stop when the color from the hose is new oil. That's not all that scientific, but it's about as good as you can do yourself. Make sure the axles are supported by axle stands so the tires are off the floor.
 
That's about what I had in mind... . I just wondered If I could use an external pump to do the same thing.....





Still waiting on One fitting... . I'm going to finish up everything but the one fitting this evening when it cools down some..... 101 degrees on the concrete...
 
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