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Dodge crewcab conversion step by step?

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4BT Vibration

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What would you guys suggest the first thing to do in a 85 Dodge crewcab conversion? I have a good running crewcab, complete parted out 90 D350 Cummins engine, 2wd 5 speed Getrag trans, and Dana 70 dually rearend. I finally have a second ride, now I can afford to down the crew. I plan to use the 85's wiring to power the injection pump. No grids or fuel heater, at least at this point. I don't need the message center lights to work either.



I basically looking for a starting point or step by step process of the conversion. Get the 360 gasser out and to the side, notch the engine cross member and sit the Cummins in, then measure for the transmission mount, etc? What do you guys think?
 
I would change all orig susp, and steering parts while I had the motor out. Would be the best time to insp/detail eng bay-frame-firewall areas. I read pan clearence was gained @ draglink hadn't heard or saw of crossmember notching. Does your crew have a plastic gas tank? you would probably need to relocate carrier bearing also
 
We changed a 83 dually crew cab to 92 diesel with getrag. We used the 92 std cab because we wanted a 12 ft. flatbed on a long frame.



When we set the diesel in the 83 frame, we found we didn't have pan clearance to the 83 tie rod. The 92 has a drop in the middle of the tie rod, about 1-2 inches for the pan clearance. So we used the 92 tie rod, steering knuckles, etc. This was the only change we made. We didn't need to notch the frame. When we set the motor in it was setting to much to the front so we redrilled the front motor mounts 1" to the rear and used the diesel mounts. We used the getrag rear mount, all the way back in its slots, maybe a little filing on the bolt slots and it fit good.



Are going to use an intercooler? We used a 2nd gen intercooler and radiator with the 83 core support. We just modified the core support. We don't have a radiator shroud.



Our 83 dually rear was 4:10 and we like 3:54 with a Getrag so we used the 92 axle. It runs nice at 65 mph. We use 90 weight Castrol fully synthetic in the Getrag with a quart over year around. In the winter it shifts a little stiff but after a few miles it's OK. We were lucky, our Getrag is a good one, no noises.



Fred
 
Hey Bill, was that donor a cab and chassis? If it was, check the width on the rear before you start swappin'. You may find it's too narrow.

Travis. .
 
Bill I put a 89 motor and trans in my 84 Crewcab I didnt change any steering stuff no clearance problems.

Motor mounts are in the same holes as the gasser, sits in there just fine firewall clearance looks the same as my brothers 92 I used the 89 core support with a 92 radiator moved the headlights up and out 1 inch so 92 grill would work I have 410 gears would like 354 or convert my 307 single (from 89 donor) to a dually Good luck with conversion

Careyk
 
Not gonna install an intercooler at this point.



My donor was a regular pickup truck dually, not a cab and chasis.



I'll compare the front end components on the crew and my 91. 5 2wd. I already scrapped all the front end parts from the donor:mad:.



From what I read from EarlKann's conversion he 'slotted' the cavemember or engine mount bracket, driver side, on the crew. I saved the old cave member from the donor to have something to compare or if I needed to use it etc. One side on the diesel is just a hole and the other is slotted.



You can bet I'll be back asking questions. To start I'm gonna remove the dually fender extensions, and outer duals just to have a little more room in the garage if I need to move around the rear. Then pull the hood, fenders and core support for engine R&R.



Question for those that used the gasser underhood wiring. I hear you can use the distributor wire for powering the injection pump? My donor's wiring was SHOT. Talk about a rats nest. Thanks for the input so far.
 
pepecat said:
hey bill how much does a crewcab dually cost?? I found one, wondering if I should jump on it. .

Depends on what shape it's in, running or not, etc. Plus you're out in California where they're all at. Here in the midwest a rust free or good shape body crew would bring in a premium. SamsRams was asking $5500 for mine when I traded him a clean early 91 W250 CTD auto reg cab straight up for it.
 
Well It is running, has about 110,000 and from original owner. it is a 4spd with 360 v8 crewcab longbed dually, tan, has one cracked fender and front pass side has a dent, one side molding is missing, paint is good, interior is farm truck trim immaculate. Runs great, passed smog easily, and no goosneck hitch! Oh, and no rust of course, local california small town rig. I am going to go out to look/buy monday
 
Just pull the shut off solenoid and run a cable shut off. If you don't want somebody to steel your truck, pull the cable out, then it won't start... ... ... ...



If you have a electrical schematic for the 85, you'd just have to find the wire that gets hot with the key switch in the run position.



Michael
 
Bill I used the 84 wiring in mine the pos. coil wire is the one you want butt I eleminated the balast resistor so I have a full 12 volts balast cuts it to 6volts if I rember corectly

Careyk
 
Thanks Carey.



About time you chimed in on this Michael:-laf.



I might have to host a Smoke over The Haute (Terre Haute) Cookout for help with putting the engine in/pushing/pulling the chasis, lining things up just to get the engine and trans mount bolted up:D. More to follow later:D.
 
SGibson said:
Are you going to swap before Indy?

:-laf Oh no. But I will have started on it before Indy;). Course that all depends on how difficult things go and bumps along the way. I'd love to have the engine and trans bolted in and running before winter;). Then swap in the D70 and get driveshafts built.
 
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