Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
My 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 had the traditional front wheel wobble / out of balance / wheel hopping problems. I tried many of the concepts I found on various forums with very little benefit. In desperation, I placed my truck on a 9000 pound car lift, removing the front wheels, and deployed an 8 foot wrecking bar under the lower A Arms and then lifting the arm about 1/2 inch up and back down to see if anything might be loose. I noticed that the top rubber bushing on the shocks would move up and down before the actual shock would compress. I removed the upper shock nut, removed the large washer and bushing, then removed the steel spacer, then shortened that spacer by 1/8 inch, then by 1/4 inch total, and finally by a total of 5/16 of an inch to acquire a crush of the top rubber shock bushings (other trucks might use a different number). This resulted in a movement of the lower A Arm which then put compression into the shock whereby there was no more slop in the shock bushing. This solved about 80% of my front end problems. Next, balanced my wheels on a precision match balance capable COATS balance machine. I mounted the wheels using a COATS hub centric adapter (same diameter as the hub centric wheel on the front and rear axle hubs) for inside rim mounting, and used a COATS Pin Plate system that pushes the outside of the wheel at all 8 locations of the lug nut holes. Fixturing system then places the flat part of the wheel mount against the large flat surface of the balance machine. (This is the best wheel fixture system available today for these large truck wheels and matches how the wheel is mounted on the truck axles.) The default for most balance machines is to round the inner and outer weight systems to the nearest 1/4 of an ounce (Production Mode). On some machines you can turn off auto rounding system and this gets you to the resolution of the display characters. Next by Switching over from ounces to grams, permits the balance to be driven to just a few grams of out of balance. I deployed the larger diameter rancho 9000 shocks (using the shorter metal spacer). The result has not been over 50,000 miles of no wobble / no out of balance conditions. I set the Rancho shocks to 6 for the Front and 8 for the Rear (I tow quite often).
Also to improve the ability of the truck to track straight I had the alignment shop maximize the Camber to 4 deg Positive (Upper Ball Joint behind Lower Ball Joint) and permitted a slightly pigeon toe on caster. No wear observed on tires ever (on second set now). Now, the Dodge 2500 can track straight with zero drift and zero wobble. Even on the worst roads, there is no wobble. The higher camber angle gives up some of the super fast steering for in town, but is really great on the longer drives. Since I drive the trucks mostly long distance, this was a good trade off for me. After a few weeks you won't notice the minor loss of the faster response steering.
Gary McLeod
2002 Dodge 2500 RV 275 Injectors Super Chip Programmer 5.9 Diesel (124K miles)
1999 F350 Extended Cab 4X4 CAMPER SPECIAL Power Stroke (100K miles)
1987 F250 Reg Cab 6.9 diesel (277K miles)
2003 Jetta TDI (105K miles)
Also to improve the ability of the truck to track straight I had the alignment shop maximize the Camber to 4 deg Positive (Upper Ball Joint behind Lower Ball Joint) and permitted a slightly pigeon toe on caster. No wear observed on tires ever (on second set now). Now, the Dodge 2500 can track straight with zero drift and zero wobble. Even on the worst roads, there is no wobble. The higher camber angle gives up some of the super fast steering for in town, but is really great on the longer drives. Since I drive the trucks mostly long distance, this was a good trade off for me. After a few weeks you won't notice the minor loss of the faster response steering.
Gary McLeod
2002 Dodge 2500 RV 275 Injectors Super Chip Programmer 5.9 Diesel (124K miles)
1999 F350 Extended Cab 4X4 CAMPER SPECIAL Power Stroke (100K miles)
1987 F250 Reg Cab 6.9 diesel (277K miles)
2003 Jetta TDI (105K miles)
